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| Protege Under The Hood Protege engine, intake, exhaust, drivetrain, transmission, cooling, steering, etc. |
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May 15th, 2002, 04:49 PM
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TOP Alumni
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 3,018
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First of all I want to tell you guys (and girl) that I have short shifted my car (by: A-Spec).
Okay the clanging I am having occurs when I shift up into 1st gear, the sound is not present once the car is in gear. It is a dull metallic sheet metal type of sound just forward and below the shifter. I have experienced the 2900rpm rattle when it's cold but this is different. The shift motion, however, does not seem to be any different. It is still smooth (for now). When I'm in first and on the gas I don't get any noise but when I let off the gas and let the engine brake down in first I get continuing noise (dull clanging). I have heard of other short shifters wearing out their bearings and I am going to check it out tonight. Tell you what I find out and if you have had similar experiences please drop a line.
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[font=Arial]Dave Retired WESTSIDE REPRESENTATIVE[/font] 
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May 15th, 2002, 05:50 PM
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#2 |
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Members
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Markham On
Posts: 1,262
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Dave, I have B&M on my G2 for almost 2 years now and no probs so far. I have a feeling something is loose, either in the gear or cat/exhaust areas. Does it only happen in 1st gear ? If the shift engage is smooth & precise and noise only comes when you engine-brake, then there's something loose and rattling.. Take the boot off and see if there's anything amiss & inspect your exhaust, near the catalytic converter area..
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ERIC G. 2003 SUNLIGHT SILVER PROTEGE5/5 SPEED Mazdaspeed Greddy Pauter PLX Wideband Devices Unorthodox Racing AEM Outlaw Engineering Magnecor NGK Denso Advanced Clutch Technology AWR OBX HKS Fujitsubo B&M Corksport Racing Beat Tein Coilovers Kosei Yokohama Hawk Power Slot Autometer Sparco Motul Amsoil Redline Xcelerated Concepts Kenwood Alpine Compustar Interstate Custom Mods: Throttle body overbore/Intake manifold portmatched/Oem flywheel lightened (machined & balanced 14 lbs.)/ FSZE intake cam/Mazdaspeed exhaust cam/FSZE pistons & rings/VTCS disabled/MSP swaybar kit with Msp sedan subframe/JDM Sport20 tail lights/JDM Familia, Sport20 & Mazdaspeed badges   
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May 15th, 2002, 06:04 PM
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#3 |
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Members
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 365
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There's a heatshiels right below the shifter. See if it interferes.
I bent mine a little bit to clear shifter.
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Alex 2003 Infiniti G35 6M Aero Premium Tanabe Medallion Hyper Exhaust, Progress Adjustable Sway Bars, Tokico D-Spec Springs/shocks, Stillen Intake, Stoptech Rotors with Axxis Pads, G-Tech bars Work Emotion XT-7 18x8.5. |
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May 15th, 2002, 09:40 PM
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Guelph
Posts: 2,807
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Yeah that modified pivot point could be doing it..
If the control rod is now sitting lower than from the factory it might just be bumping somehow against that sheild. Navy: You don't mind letting me try out the shifter in your car right? I want to compare the A-Spec mod vs. the B&M and see if the feeling is different enough to warrant spending twice as much 
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May 15th, 2002, 10:11 PM
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#5 |
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TOP Alumni
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 3,018
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Problem fixed. It was the heat shield. It has since been cut and bent to put more space between the sheild and the bottom of the shifter. Just find it strange that it took 2 weeks to cause a problem.
Rowan, like I have said before... If you're not WEST SIDE I don't care to help anyone! |
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May 16th, 2002, 07:27 AM
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#6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 588
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HAHAHA...Navy...U SO CRAZY!
Glad to hear you got that prob. solved...when I read your first post I was damn worried...your car ROCKS, and if their was something seriously wrong I would be very sad! 
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Brent Price, Member Burlington \"WESTSIDE\" 2002 P5 Midnight Blue Mica, Ractive Superflow Intake, 35% Metallic Tint, Eurolites (fogs, lows, signals), Perfect Fit Hood Deflector |
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May 21st, 2002, 02:16 AM
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#7 |
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Members
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brampton
Posts: 297
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I have the B&M shifter as well and I just took the heat shield for the resonator right off. I added it to the pile alongside the 3 (thats right 3) heat shields around the exhaust manifold.
Bottom line is cooler exhaust means more power. Heat shields do serve somewhat of a purpose i.e. rattles and clangs but on my P5 there is nothing near the exhaust that could melt, I'm sure its the same on your MP5
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SCOT Black MP5 "my car is as evil as I am...." 
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May 28th, 2002, 08:39 PM
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#8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,690
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I think your wrong. Hot air moves faster. Cold air going into your intake is better but hotter exhaust is better. If you were at the Brullen meet you would have known that.
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Ross 02 P5 w/Full 03 front end and Autoexe grill. 2003 Honda CBR 600 RR One of the Original 12. |
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May 29th, 2002, 12:01 PM
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#9 |
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Members
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Markham On
Posts: 1,262
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I agree with Ross, the key is to keep hot air in your exhaust manifold & pipes so the air can travel faster. That's what headers/turbo manifolds do, as well as exhaust wraps..
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June 8th, 2002, 04:08 AM
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Brampton
Posts: 297
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My bad, ment to say cooler engine.
And I'm soooooooo sorry I wasn't at the Brullen meet, I guess I should just move away and buy a Hyundai...... |
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