When i pop the gear into first i get a "clang"

[MP5Navy]

First of all I want to tell you guys (and girl) that I have short shifted my car (by: A-Spec).

Okay the clanging I am having occurs when I shift up into 1st gear, the sound is not present once the car is in gear. It is a dull metallic sheet metal type of sound just forward and below the shifter. I have experienced the 2900rpm rattle when it's cold but this is different. The shift motion, however, does not seem to be any different. It is still smooth (for now). When I'm in first and on the gas I don't get any noise but when I let off the gas and let the engine brake down in first I get continuing noise (dull clanging). I have heard of other short shifters wearing out their bearings and I am going to check it out tonight. Tell you what I find out and if you have had similar experiences please drop a line.

[Familia 323]

Dave, I have B&M on my G2 for almost 2 years now and no probs so far. I have a feeling something is loose, either in the gear or cat/exhaust areas. Does it only happen in 1st gear ? If the shift engage is smooth & precise and noise only comes when you engine-brake, then there's something loose and rattling.. Take the boot off and see if there's anything amiss & inspect your exhaust, near the catalytic converter area..

[obender66]

There's a heatshiels right below the shifter. See if it interferes.
I bent mine a little bit to clear shifter.

[rowan]

Yeah that modified pivot point could be doing it..
If the control rod is now sitting lower than from the factory it might just be bumping somehow against that sheild.
Navy: You don't mind letting me try out the shifter in your car right? I want to compare the A-Spec mod vs. the B&M and see if the feeling is different enough to warrant spending twice as much http://msg.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[MP5Navy]

Problem fixed. It was the heat shield. It has since been cut and bent to put more space between the sheild and the bottom of the shifter. Just find it strange that it took 2 weeks to cause a problem.

Rowan, like I have said before... If you're not WEST SIDE I don't care to help anyone!

[p5crazy]

HAHAHA...Navy...U SO CRAZY!

Glad to hear you got that prob. solved...when I read your first post I was damn worried...your car ROCKS, and if their was something seriously wrong I would be very sad! http://msg.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif

[hondakilla]

I have the B&M shifter as well and I just took the heat shield for the resonator right off. I added it to the pile alongside the 3 (thats right 3) heat shields around the exhaust manifold.

Bottom line is cooler exhaust means more power. Heat shields do serve somewhat of a purpose i.e. rattles and clangs but on my P5 there is nothing near the exhaust that could melt, I'm sure its the same on your MP5

[P5 2 NV]

I think your wrong. Hot air moves faster. Cold air going into your intake is better but hotter exhaust is better. If you were at the Brullen meet you would have known that.

[Familia 323]

I agree with Ross, the key is to keep hot air in your exhaust manifold & pipes so the air can travel faster. That's what headers/turbo manifolds do, as well as exhaust wraps..

[hondakilla]

My bad, ment to say cooler engine.
And I'm soooooooo sorry I wasn't at the Brullen meet, I guess I should just move away and buy a Hyundai......