Replacing Brake Pads

[MP5Navy]

This is a step-by-step instructional on how to replace your brake pads. This how-to will only prove to you how easy this job is and how much of a rip-off mechanics are. This is one mod that every beginner to this sport should try out cause it will give you the confidence to try other things.

Tools you will need:
New Brake Pads ($60-$80 for fronts)
Anti-seize compound
Allen keys
Lithium grease
Large C-clamp

Although the process is nearly identical for both the replacement of the front and rear brakes I will overview the front pad replacement in this instructional.

1. Remove the wheel

2. The brake caliper should now be exposed. Look behind it at the very bottom corner and you will see a black plastic cap (FYI: it has a small offset nipple on it). Peel it away and it will reveal the head of an Allen wrench.

3. Use the appropriate sized Allen wrench and remove the bolt.

4. With the bolt removed; swing the inner portion of the brake caliper up and away from the rotor.

5. With the caliper swung out you will be able to access the brake pads. First remove the two spring loaded clips between the brake pads – remember their configuration for they will need to be re-installed.

6. Once the clips are out remove the spent brake pads but sliding them out sideways. Be sure that you do not lose the retaining metal clips that hold the pad in place. The old pads can be discarded

7. Grab hold of your new pads and apply a thin layer of grease to where the pad engaged the metal clips on the sides. Do not apply grease to the braking surfaces.

8. Install the new pads in the caliper and replace the two spring loaded clips.

9. Using the C-clamp you must compress the brake cylinder in order to swing the caliper back down over the rotor. Once the cylinder has been compressed remove the C-clamp – don’t worry the cylinder will remain compressed.

10. Swing the caliper back down over the rotor. Apply anti-seize to the Allen bolt and reinstall it into the caliper. Replace the black cap. You’re done and it should’ve taken all of 15 mins per brake.

11. I changed my pads on my Pro5 at 75,000kms and my rotors were in fine shape. However, if you have a warp in your rotors (often caused by the over torquing of lug nuts) you should consider getting then machined (trued to be round/flat). When you have the caliper exposed you must unbolt the whole caliper (two bolts but will usually require the force of a impact gun). Once the caliper is off you can simply pull off the rotor and bring it into Canadian Tire where they can machine it for $30.

To properly break in your brakes you should follow this drill – find a straight piece of road:
a. cruise at 100km/h and slowly cruise to a stop – light pedal pressure
b. then make another pass and stop a little bit quicker
c. then make a final pass and stop with firm pedal pressure

[Logan]

Good write up Dave,
Comical note:
You can't drive the car with no brakes to canadian tire if you need your rotors turned! You will have to walk/borrow another car!

[Myk]

Good job!

Yes mechanics, and dealerships for sure are rip offs.

How 'bout a step by step for flushing the rad?

[Myk]

Good job!

Yes mechanics, and dealerships for sure are rip offs.

How 'bout a step by step for flushing the rad?

[ken]

I put new pads and rotors on the front wheels in about an hour but when I got to the back I ran into some problems.

There are some differences when it comes to changing the front vs. rear pads/rotors.
The front calipers open upward whereas the rear open down. The locking bolt on the front brakes is an alan bolt - on the back it is a 10mm hex bolt.
The most notable difference is that when changing the rear pads/rotors, you have to disconnect the parking brake from the caliper.

The problem I ran into on the back brake is that when I use a clamp to push the piston into the cylinder before reassembling the caliper, it wont go in far enough to fit the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor.

On the front brakes, the piston countersunk into the cylinder, but on the back I could only get it in far enough so that about 1/4" of the piston is still sticking out of the cylinder. Is my caliper seized? I tried brute force with a heavy duty clamp but it won't go in any farther. In the meantime I put the old brake pads and rotors on. Any suggestions?

[Bumble G]

On the rear brakes there is a manual adjustment gear that you use to retract the piston. Pressing on the piston with a c-clamp may damage this.

It is located on the back side of the caliper above the parking brake.

There is a "screw plug" (10mm bolt I think) that keeps crap out of the allen key bolt.

take off that bolt.

Turn the manual adjustment gear counterclockwise with an allen wrench to pull the brake caliper piston inward.

After you install the new pads

Turn the manual adjustment gear clockwise until the brake pads just touch the disc plate. Turn the manual adjustment gear back 1/3-turn.

[jsywong]

might as well add it here too, I did the adjustment with the hex key with be back brake, what do i need to readjust the hand brake as i am pulling way too far up now

edit:
after further review, my rear brake adjustment is good, but i noticed that the handbrake cable to overly loose. so what i need to do is retension the handbrake cable, i think. any help will be appreciate, thx.

[ken]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Bumble G @ May 15 2005,12:11)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">On the rear brakes there is a manual adjustment gear that you use to retract the piston. Pressing on the piston with a c-clamp may damage this.

It is located on the back side of the caliper above the parking brake.

There is a &quot;screw plug&quot; (10mm bolt I think) that keeps crap out of the allen key bolt.

take off that bolt.

Turn the manual adjustment gear counterclockwise with an allen wrench to pull the brake caliper piston inward.

After you install the new pads

Turn the manual adjustment gear clockwise until the brake pads just touch the disc plate. Turn the manual adjustment gear back 1/3-turn.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
Yep - that worked! Thanks!

[bman]

I did my brakes in April and I was worried about the loose parking brake too. But, as I use the handbrake more (alway set it when I park) it readjusted itself. Now it nice and tight again.
I would say it will reset after 100km driving. So give it a day or so. http://ib2.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Brian MP5T]

Nice!

[thekid]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bman @ May 18 2005,5:05)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I did my brakes in April and I was worried about the loose parking brake too. But, as I use the handbrake more (alway set it when I park) it readjusted itself. Now it nice and tight again.
I would say it will reset after 100km driving. So give it a day or so. http://ib2.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I was told, and don't know if this is true or not, that the parking brake self adjusts whenever the car is being driven in reverse and the brakes are applied... http://ib2.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif

[Action Jackson]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (thekid @ May 18 2005,10:08)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I was told, and don't know if this is true or not, that the parking brake self adjusts whenever the car is being driven in reverse and the brakes are applied...  http://ib2.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
This is true if the car has rear drum brakes and it applies only to the drum brake, not the parking brake.

AFAIK.

[jsywong]

but bman is right, and my handbrake is 'NICE AND TIGHT' http://ib2.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/devil.gif again, (just like a v...) http://ib2.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/devil.gif

so for others, i say give it a few days, and it should be fine

[angeloTNT]

Since MOSI's GB on brakes just finished and people are getting ready to change their brakes for the first time, i decided to put some pictures with these instructions since the pictures were prolly lost somewhere! hope these help! PS: these are the fronts

my mazdaspeed

http://photos-765.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v63/202/49/510741648/n510741648_34765_9130.jpg

Tires removed and caliper is exposed

http://photos-648.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v81/202/49/510741648/n510741648_50684_3750.jpg

Plastic cap w/ the off-set nipple.

http://photos-648.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v81/202/49/510741648/n510741648_50683_3215.jpg

caliper lifted... brake pads and spring loaded clip is exposed

http://photos-648.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v81/202/49/510741648/n510741648_50685_4264.jpg

A closer look! remember the spring loaded clip configuration and grease the metal clip good! located at the top and bottom of the brake pads!

http://photos-648.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v81/202/49/510741648/n510741648_50686_4789.jpg

hope this helps!!!

[midnitehour]

where's the how to on drum brakes?

[ace7777]

do you have to bleed the lines to replace the pads .

[thekid]

do you have to bleed the lines to replace the pads .
No, the only time you HAVE to bleed the lines is if you disconnect the brake lines in some way, whether it be replacing them, or changing calipers.

It's not a bad idea to bleed your lines every couple years, or more often if you do track stuff. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, water isn't ideal in a hydraulic system, this is why it's not a bad idea to bleed every once in a while to freshen up the system.

[angeloTNT]

i think this is what happened to me brian like u mentioned... but would a very stormy day have THAT much of an affect on the brake fluid? it just doesnt add up...

[TheMAN]

remember to grease only the underside of the "metal clip" (where it rests on the bracket)... if you put grease on the outside where the pad sits, the grease could run into the pad and get into the linings and screw up braking or make noises

[squall458]

I think my front or rear brake pads are going but its not serious yet. They make a screeching sound when I brake but its not often. When I am driving its almost random when its going to make a sound, its not that loud since I have heard way worse (2001 honda odyssey van almost made me deaf) but it does screech EVERYTIME I park into my driveway. It sounds like its from the front but my dad suggests its the rear. Anyone here want to make extra cash and fix them? Toronto/Brampton based. I rather pay another member than the mechanic. I would pay for all parts and your time, just want to save on costs too.

[KDogg]

Hi all,
I changed my front pads, but broke one of the 2 clips that hold the pads together. This happen to anyone? Any idea if these are available anywhere cars are serviced, or can they only be bought from Mazda? Is it safe to drive with only one clip until I get a new one? Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Kris

[Tolo]

Hi all,
I changed my front pads, but broke one of the 2 clips that hold the pads together. This happen to anyone? Any idea if these are available anywhere cars are serviced, or can they only be bought from Mazda? Is it safe to drive with only one clip until I get a new one? Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Kris

When you say clip do you mean the anti-rattle spring shown here "standing up" on the pads?

http://photos-648.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v81/202/49/510741648/n510741648_50686_4789.jpg

[TheMAN]

just order GJ23-33-233 from the dealer and you're good

[knightryder]

can someone tell me how to remove the hand brake from the rear cable?

I managed to swing the caliper halfway but the handbrake cable gets in the way.

[thekid]

Remove the Clip that is holding on to the bracket, make sure the handbrake is not engaged and then just pull on teh cable enough to slip it through the bracket, reverse for re-install.

[stonefencer]

Good job!

Yes mechanics, and dealerships for sure are rip offs.

How 'bout a step by step for flushing the rad?


not all mechanics are rip off artists, some of them do as they are told to by the dealership giving them the appearance that they are ripping off the customer when in reality it is the dealership doing it, IE service managaer and service writers

[knightryder]

Remove the Clip that is holding on to the bracket, make sure the handbrake is not engaged and then just pull on teh cable enough to slip it through the bracket, reverse for re-install.



You are not thekid...you are theMAN!! Thanx