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Lil Freek
June 10th, 2010, 06:17 PM
So i'm trying to put on new rear pads/rotors, and I'm having some issues

I've backed out the screw (allen key) all the way back on the inside of the caliper, and i still can't get the rear caliper over the pads - it's just too wide.

I checked online, and the pads I have a definitely the right ones D892-7771 (crappy whatever brand), and the piston will not go further in no matter what (allen key nearly falling out of one)

Am I just supposed to hammer the cage down over the pads? Just being cautious to not damage the new pads :eek:

Lil Freek
June 10th, 2010, 06:25 PM
so... looking at it a little closer, it's the shims that are causing an issue

are both rear pads supposed to have shims? one just fell off, and the cage slid over, no problem

Hacker
June 10th, 2010, 09:52 PM
I had a similar problem on my old rear calipers. Most likely the hex head screw is starting to wear out, so it's not able to pull the piston back completely (i.e. it retracts a little, but not enough to fit brand new pads and shims.) What I did was slowly push the piston back at the same time as I turned the hex screw. This was the only way I could get the piston fully retracted. And yes, the shims are supposed to be on the pads.

J.

y2jay
June 13th, 2010, 11:34 AM
The shims are used for noise / anti squealing. I take them off when I install my rear pads, never had any issues.

TheMAN
June 18th, 2010, 09:01 PM
if the elcheapo aftermarket pads has shims glued or riveted on, then you leave the originals off... if they're still in good shape, KEEP THEM... you'll regret it when you change to a different set of pads in the future and having to order and pay a lot for them... they're supposed to come with new OEM pads of course

ItIMP3
June 21st, 2010, 11:18 PM
has anyone had any seizing problems with their rear brakes? im on my third pair of rear calipers and it seems like it keeps happening, i dont know whether to think its the actual caliper or the hand brake line itself

Brian MP5T
June 22nd, 2010, 06:27 AM
The brake adjustment could have be out as well causing the pads to drag more.

If you are doing the job yourself, a quick inspection of the piston and housing should show easily what sort of condition the caliper is in.

RideGuy
July 16th, 2010, 09:20 PM
has anyone had any seizing problems with their rear brakes? im on my third pair of rear calipers and it seems like it keeps happening, i dont know whether to think its the actual caliper or the hand brake line itself
I just did caliber rebuild number 2. The car sat in the drive way for 4 days. When I went to drive it the rear brakes were stuck on. I was hoping it was just the e-brake cable but no such luck.

Brian MP5T
July 16th, 2010, 09:25 PM
Adjustment was out...

They have to be adjusted after they are installed..

Hacker
July 16th, 2010, 09:54 PM
I just did caliber rebuild number 2. The car sat in the drive way for 4 days. When I went to drive it the rear brakes were stuck on. I was hoping it was just the e-brake cable but no such luck.

Sometimes it's better to leave the parking brake off when parked for a long time. I've experienced this problem too, especially when parked overnight in rainy or freezing weather. The pad literally glues to the rotor surface and leaves an imprint. It seems to be worse when using pads with metallic compound.

J.

RideGuy
July 18th, 2010, 08:01 AM
Sometimes it's better to leave the parking brake off when parked for a long time. I've experienced this problem too, especially when parked overnight in rainy or freezing weather. The pad literally glues to the rotor surface and leaves an imprint. It seems to be worse when using pads with metallic compound.

J.
My driveway is on a slant to the road. I guess I could chalk the wheels.