Oil & Filter

[991.8l]

Looking to buy my first oil & filter myself (for both cars TSX/Protege) sticking with conventional oil. What is the very best conventional oil that you can recommend. Going to grab the oil filters from the dealer.

[Azi]

if you are going conventional, then why look for teh very best? Just get whatever is on sale.

[991.8l]

ya i've been reading that they are all SAE approved, so I can't go wrong. I just didn't want Acura giving me warranty trouble for not using their "approved" oil in my car.

[CulRidr]

Castrol GTX with a Mobil 1 filter. The oil is what I have in my car during my break-in period...

[Royson]

I've just started using Synthetic as of my last change, but for the previous use (I'm at 250k right now) I used whatever was on sale.

Quaker State, Castrol, Motomaster, whatever. Doesn't seem to really matter in the slightest.

I've also started bringing in oil filters from the States - Wal-Mart sells SuperTech filters for $2.38 each. Can't beat that.

[CulRidr]

^are they actually any good though?

[y2jay]

For all intensive purposes (and to not open a can of worms with this topic as it is too subjective given the fact that too many are misinformed), most conventional oils will provide adequate protection and lubrication for your engine, assuming you only do daily driving and do not track your car or drive in -45 degree weather.

Castrol GTX, Castrol Syntec (not fully synthetic), Quaker State Q are just two of the conventional ones I use regularly without issues as they are usually the most affordable and go on sale often. In winter I opt for full synthetic such as Mobil 1 0W30 as it's weight and molecular synthesis allows for increased lubrication and improved cranking during cold starts.

As long as you get oil that is correctly weighted for the season (10WXX for warmer months and 5WXX for colder months), you should be fine.

As for filter, most filter construction is comparable and all those fancy filters with the uneccessary gimics and add ons are just that.. gimics to take your money. Stick with a motomaster filter or a purolator if you are completely paranoid with CT stuff. I'd only buy a frame if it was 50% off and would NEVER go and pay dealer price for a oil filter.

[991.8l]

I don't think id skimp on oil filters as I know some are designed terribly... meaning they are a bitch to put on and remove... they also don't filter as well as others.

[y2jay]

I've also started bringing in oil filters from the States - Wal-Mart sells SuperTech filters for $2.38 each. Can't beat that.


That's were I get mine too!! It's a steal

[y2jay]

I don't think id skimp on oil filters as I know some are designed terribly... meaning they are a bitch to put on and remove... they also don't filter as well as others.

Um... where did you read that some don't filter particuarly well?

[991.8l]

I'd be running the same recommended 5w30 year round.

[991.8l]

Um... where did you read that some don't filter particuarly well?

I would assume just as some air filters work better than others, oil filters (depending on what they are made of) would meet or exceed OEM requirements.

[y2jay]

^are they actually any good though?


Supertech filters are an essentially Champion rebranded filters

[Royson]

^are they actually any good though?

All the guys on one of my American motorcycle forums run them. Same people make those as Bosch, K&N, STP, Mobile 1.

And here is a highly technical dissection lol. :p

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r20429981-Tech-REVIEW-WalMart-Branded-Supertech-Oil-Filters

[Azi]

molecular synthesis? srsly?

[y2jay]

^ long and short of it synthetic oil is synthesized from the same oil base stocks and are tailored to contain a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties.

[starscream]

For all intensive purposes (and to not open a can of worms with this topic as it is too subjective given the fact that too many are misinformed), most conventional oils will provide adequate protection and lubrication for your engine, assuming you only do daily driving and do not track your car or drive in -45 degree weather.

The grade/weight of the oil also makes a difference as well in providing protection. Thats also an important part. It would help with cold cranking, cold lubrication.


Castrol Syntec (not fully synthetic)

WRONG! Castrol Syntec is a full synthetic, and if you go with the 0w30 you'll findout that, that particular blend is made in germany. All castol syntec (with the exception of the diesel blends 15w40 i think) have MB, BMW, VW and a few other specifications certified. Castol Syntec BLEND is the only one from what I know of that is a BLEND and not a synthetic.


As long as you get oil that is correctly weighted for the season (10WXX for warmer months and 5WXX for colder months), you should be fine.

Going even as low as 0w30 is fine, and for the most part the you can stick with 5w for the whole year or even 0w for the whole year if you really wanted to.

[starscream]

Also just to mention Group III oils and the Group IV stuff is all up for debate depending on which angle you look at. Group IV I can understand as sythetic, but group III majority of them arenot unless you consider their addon packs which then makes them pass the SAE standards to be a synthetic however to mention only in the States and Canada.

But thats a whole new can of worms based on opinon...hydrocracked or not to hydrocrack.

The more reading I do on oils the more I realize theres MUCH MORE grey area then there needs to be SAE should reform its requirements IMO.

[y2jay]

The grade/weight of the oil also makes a difference as well in providing protection. Thats also an important part. It would help with cold cranking, cold lubrication.

Yes you are correct, I just didnt state that outright.


WRONG! Castrol Syntec is a full synthetic, and if you go with the 0w30 you'll findout that, that particular blend is made in germany. All castol syntec (with the exception of the diesel blends 15w40 i think) have MB, BMW, VW and a few other specifications certified. Castol Syntec BLEND is the only one from what I know of that is a BLEND and not a synthetic.

Thanks for informing! I may have mixed this up with the BLEND


Going even as low as 0w30 is fine, and for the most part the you can stick with 5w for the whole year or even 0w for the whole year if you really wanted to.
You are also correct.

I buy Mobil 1 0W30 since it behaves like a 10W30 and 5W30 weight in both summer and winter, respectively. And I get it for $22 for 4.4L!

[Grim]

I buy Mobil 1 0W30 since it behaves like a 10W30 and 5W30 weight in both summer and winter, respectively. And I get it for $22 for 4.4L!


Where do you pick that up at?

[TheMAN]

there are plenty of people who had great results with pennzoil (the big yellow bottle) but I never tried them... didn't have problems with the regular castrol gtx.... the gtx high mileage sucks (though no problems either) compared to valvoline maxlife (had GREAT results out of all of them)

[TheMAN]

The grade/weight of the oil also makes a difference as well in providing protection. Thats also an important part. It would help with cold cranking, cold lubrication.



WRONG! Castrol Syntec is a full synthetic, and if you go with the 0w30 you'll findout that, that particular blend is made in germany. All castol syntec (with the exception of the diesel blends 15w40 i think) have MB, BMW, VW and a few other specifications certified. Castol Syntec BLEND is the only one from what I know of that is a BLEND and not a synthetic.



Going even as low as 0w30 is fine, and for the most part the you can stick with 5w for the whole year or even 0w for the whole year if you really wanted to.
only the 0W30 castrol is considered by people a true synthetic.... the others are what people (like mobil1 fanboys) have been saying about castrol... not true synthetic because of its group 3 nature

[sumrandomguy]

5W30 Castrol GTX is on clearance at WalMart for $8.88 for a 4L jug at the Mississauga Square One location. not sure if this is available at other locations

[991.8l]

^ Thanks!

[dead_cactus]

Both my mom and sisters Protege gets GTX.

In my 01 and 03 both get synthetic with a K&N filter.

[DWMpartsguy]

Just a small rant on filters.....

Ever since Honeywell bought Fram the quaility of their products has gone downhill IMO. I used Motomaster filter from back and the day and they were fine. Honeywell comes in and starts cheaping out on the construction and quality of the filter element.

Fram had a "stop sale" of the Mazda cartridge filters when I worked at Crappy tire. The filters were disintegrating inside the housings.

A month ago I was at my buddy's shop getting work done and decided to do an oil change. It was to late to get a MAHLE filter (VW OEM) so I had to get one from Crappy to my dismay. Im not kidding you when I say this, the next day I get a MAHLE in and go to take the Motomaster filter off and it takes the threaded nipple right out of the housing. Never in 5 years has that ever happened. The threads are poorly made that it held the nipple in the filter. I now remember why I stopped using Fram filter.

Never cheap out on the filter as well as the oil.

To the O/P, the G6Y0-14-302A filter will also fit on your TSX. ;)

I run one on my Mom's Sentra too.

[TheMAN]

last time I checked, the mazda canada oil filters are also the bullshit honeywell ones, just like the honda and subaru usa ones... in that off blue

mazda usa sells mahle OEM and tokyo roki filters depending on supply :D



if I'm in a bind, I know I can use a supertech oil filter and not have to worry..... its built MUCH better than a fram for a fraction of the price!
there's another thread here not long ago where I posted the evils of fram... but there's plenty of fram fanboys here, so beware!

[y2jay]

Where do you pick that up at?


Walmart... in the States.

I make trips down to Detroit every once in a while and warrants a few jugs of synthetic for half the price!

[Bagman]

What to say.. What to say... I personally wouldn't touch the the cheapo oils - like MotoMaster. For those that buy whatever is on sale - I say, "whatever". Oil is being changed often anyways.. and there are so many other things you could do to damage the engine instead (if running a shitty oil does actually damage your engine). I personally use Synthentic Mobil1 - carrying forward since the car was new with the original owner. I would say if you do stick to ONE particular oil - then I would recommend to use a good oil.

In terms of filters - I just use the one Mazda provides. I would always recommend to any friend of mine to just stick with the one the car manufacturer provides.

[w_l89]

how much does mazda charge for their oem filters?

[DWMpartsguy]

how much does mazda charge for their oem filters?

$6.99. Or $5.80 for donating members.

Or come to some events, im sure i've given half of TOP free filters. :p

[thekid]

Just to way in on the true synthetic vs. Synthetic discussion. Normally when people are debating this, it comes down to additives used. Its quite common for certain NA produced synthetics to use conventional additives. A couple years ago this included Mobil 1, Syntec and some others. I agree that German made Syntec is the real deal, so are Total, Motul, Royal Purple, and Redline.

[TheMAN]

What to say.. What to say... I personally wouldn't touch the the cheapo oils - like MotoMaster. For those that buy whatever is on sale - I say, "whatever". Oil is being changed often anyways.. and there are so many other things you could do to damage the engine instead (if running a shitty oil does actually damage your engine). I personally use Synthentic Mobil1 - carrying forward since the car was new with the original owner. I would say if you do stick to ONE particular oil - then I would recommend to use a good oil.

In terms of filters - I just use the one Mazda provides. I would always recommend to any friend of mine to just stick with the one the car manufacturer provides.
no oil, no matter how cheap damages an engine as long as it is the specified grade and meets the manufacturer's specs (japanese cars for example, do not have a manufacturer specific spec like europeans do)

however, it HAS been shown that some brands of oils (cheap ones being some of them, NOT all) have considerably LESS protection due to weaker additive packages and thus reduced oil life... or have a considerably weak base stock that essentially thins itself out to the next lower grade, thus resulting in higher counts of various metals in the used oils... signs of engine wear/reduced engine life, but not a sign of a failing engine at the sampling mileage but *could* be a sign of failing oil

oil isn't really oil anymore, and just like cars or other things, you can't say brand X is good but brand Y is crap... each brand has their best and the rest mediocre/worst... only a smart/informed buyer will see that the dollar to value ratio sucks on many of mobil1's oils but a few on their lineup, same thing goes for castrol which is basically all "meh" except for the german made 0W30... even the castrol edge is much hyped but short of what they advertise

you'd be surprised what some of the unthinkable or "sinful" brands are better than the most popular ones are if you take a few hours to do some research.... and the hotly contested price range for this are the sub $8 US range of oils... anything more expensive than that, it's harder to find a totally crappy oil but the basic idea of finding something better than another at the same price still applies... so as the old saying goes, you get what you pay, but to go further than that you get the best for your money if you are informed over joe six pack and buy an "unpopular" brand instead at the same price... bottom line is, you make a budget of how much you want to pay (if you have dollar bills growing on your trees, then get whatever expensive imported/exotic shit you want) and then figure out at THAT price level or less what's the best

[00bluees]

these oil threads make me laugh. just put some oil in the damn engine at recommended intervals and in regular driving conditions you will never notice any difference (unless you have too much time on your hands)

i just use fram filters and whatever oil goes on sale when i need a change (lately its been "synthetic" because it actually goes on sale cheaper than conventional when i go to buy oil)

i'll challenge anyone to come physically prove to me that being picky about my choices in oil changes will make a difference to my engine.

[TheMAN]

open it up at 200k and let's see who has worn down piston rings, scored cylinder walls, camshaft/lifter wear, lower oil pressure due to oil pump wear, varnish, sludge, etc

if you're just a cheap ass about the simple things, you just simply don't like your car much at all

[JattMSP03]

Depending on where u at, Canadian Tire has 5W20 100% Synthentic for $21 and omse change and I buy the filter from Mazda for abt $8.75.

[00bluees]

open it up at 200k and let's see who has worn down piston rings, scored cylinder walls, camshaft/lifter wear, lower oil pressure due to oil pump wear, varnish, sludge, etc

if you're just a cheap ass about the simple things, you just simply don't like your car much at all

i do see your point, and i do like my car!! i just don't think spending an extra $30 or more every oil change for super premium products vs regular on sale off the shelf stuff is really going to make a massive difference with the way i drive.

and honestly i would be very curious to find a car with the exact same driving history and mileage as mine that has been run on top of the line stuff its whole life. but i doubt i'll ever see it.

when my P5 turns into a racecar (lol), then i'll spend the extra money. if i buy a brand new engine or car, i'll spend the money. untill then its a $5000 daily driver thats not worth spending $60 or more every oil change. especially when i picked it up past the point of no return (129,000 kms) so if anything the dammage will have been done buy previous owners.

again not trying to argue or anything, just my view on the subject.

[TheMAN]

I can understand better if you got the car used
but if you bought it new, I'll have to say you're stupid

cheap oil is one thing, but a garbage fram filter is a whole other thing! at least get a halfway decent reasonably priced filter FFS (a ***king fram is overpriced)!

[00bluees]

^reccomendations?

preferably something that CT or something that would actually have regular stock. the fram's are about $5 and k&n's are $15 at CT but they never have k&n's. and i don't trust the motomaster ones, they are always dented and have rips in the plastic wrapping.

i've just always used fram. never had a reason to otherwise.

and i have read most oil filter threads, and there isn't usually a definitive answer of what one to buy.

[solo.]

^reccomendations?

preferably something that CT or something that would actually have regular stock. the fram's are about $5 and k&n's are $15 at CT but they never have k&n's. and i don't trust the motomaster ones, they are always dented and have rips in the plastic wrapping.

i've just always used fram. never had a reason to otherwise.

and i have read most oil filter threads, and there isn't usually a definitive answer of what one to buy.

Why not OEM filters? I'm sure you have access to a dealership right?

[TheMAN]

for cheap filters, you can't go wrong with ones made by champion labs (supertech is the cheapest)... they are the makers of the K&N and mobil1 filters to custom specs, but even the cheap shit don't differ that greatly in overall construction except for the filter media basically... purolator is the other good maker... they make NAPA gold filters, the o'reily store brand microgard filter (US only), motorcraft, etc

if crappy tire sells motorcraft, then you can't go wrong with those.... the delco filters are really made by champion labs, I've been using them in my beater for a long time... when my small stock is depleted, I will switch to supertech

[TheMAN]

Why not OEM filters? I'm sure you have access to a dealership right?
because it's not always convenient for everyone and I'm still speculating that the ones mazda canada sells are really honeywell (fram) ones instead of the badass mahle/tokyo roki ones mazda usa sells

so until someone buys one and cuts one open and take pics so we can compare with a fram, I'll stick to my hunch

[dead_cactus]

preferably something that CT or something that would actually have regular stock. the fram's are about $5 and k&n's are $15 at CT but they never have k&n's. and i don't trust the motomaster ones, they are always dented and have rips in the plastic wrapping.


I've got K&N filters if your ever in the area.

[sumrandomguy]

^reccomendations?

preferably something that CT or something that would actually have regular stock. the fram's are about $5 and k&n's are $15 at CT but they never have k&n's. and i don't trust the motomaster ones, they are always dented and have rips in the plastic wrapping.

i've just always used fram. never had a reason to otherwise.

and i have read most oil filter threads, and there isn't usually a definitive answer of what one to buy.


how often do you cross the border?
Advance Auto Parts sells the Purolator filters (PremiumPlus and PureOne) for about $6 a piece. I usually stock up when the gf is shopping at the outlet. If you have an Amerifriend, Amazon.com has the PureOne filters for 2 for $9, with free shipping on orders over $25.

[TheMAN]

yeah, cheap enough by your standards not to care about the $6 price
for $6 though, I rather have a mazda (mahle) oil filter

the supertech shit works too, and its only $2.50 at walmart!

[Cool_Steve]

I've been using valvoline maxlife for years, changed every 3000-3500k. I've also used Fram filters every time. If Fram is such shit, whats better and where can I find it? Or does it even matter on an over ten year old 4 cyl motor in an econobox?

[TheMAN]

you're already paying too much for a shitty oil filter... so yes, IT MATTERS
it's counterproductive and oxymoronic to even use good oil with basically the worst oil filter you can get

I use maxlife (blend) in both my old cars... it's the best oil for its price bracket
I recently went from maxlife 10W30 to 10W40 due to its ACEA A3 certification, which is more robust for severe driving conditions... I stocked up on 2 cases of them recently when it went on sale here for $2.79 a quart :D funny enough, it forced walmart to drop the price to 13 bucks (2 weeks after the sale started) for a 5 quart jug when it's normally $15 here... so to hell with walmart, I bought that shit at the parts store way before walmart budged on their price!


I posted all the evidence of how shitty fram is in another thread, so search for it... I also posted how great supertech is for a fraction of the cost of a fram

[Mr_Sinister]

still using mobil 1 Extended Performance with 25,000km oil changes . Buy a 5L oil for 25 bucks in the USA everytime i visit FallsView.
Fram XG6607. It amazes me how cheap things are compared to uphere.

Last emissions test showed 1 ppm Nox thats it.

+300,000km on the car

[dead_cactus]

^ You ever done any oil analysis to see what the Mobil 1 is like after 25,000km?

[CrazyCaker]

^ does it really matter? He's got over 300k on the car. If he was using an xtended life Fram filter in addition, I'm sure all hell would break loose and his motor would blow.

Some ppl obviously suffer from OCD when it comes to this type of thing.

[991.8l]

At what kms or vehicle age is it recommended to use maxlife motor oil. I did the online selector and it recommends I stick with conventional cause I have less than 75000 miles.

[Mr_Sinister]

I have been running on the same extended performance product for some time now. running Synthetic forever :) And since i had a Honda Accord we ran the same way until 550,000km I have confidence that if the car fails, it wont be from the oil. :) Up until a while ago I have been running on lesser filters. Although everyone seems to have a problem with frame, I have yet to have a personal problem / incident.

I am due for an oil change soon, I already have my next 5w30 ready to go.

^ You ever done any oil analysis to see what the Mobil 1 is like after 25,000km?

I would like to do it to see what the results comeback with. I generally keep running the recommended 10w30 in the summer. I have had Mazda techs give it the thumbs up, if it hasnt failed it, then its good for life :) Emissions test came back blank.

[myprotege5]

At what kms or vehicle age is it recommended to use maxlife motor oil. I did the online selector and it recommends I stick with conventional cause I have less than 75000 miles.



its been known after 150000km
but i just use synthetic anyways lol

[TheMAN]

At what kms or vehicle age is it recommended to use maxlife motor oil. I did the online selector and it recommends I stick with conventional cause I have less than 75000 miles.
any time past break in period
there is nothing stated you can't use it on a new car, it's just that the shit is marketed towards older cars... it's good shit anyway, so ignore what the bottle says

[Cool_Steve]

At what kms or vehicle age is it recommended to use maxlife motor oil. I did the online selector and it recommends I stick with conventional cause I have less than 75000 miles.

I used that stuff when I first got my car and it was around 65,000kms, well before the 120k mark.

Are Motormaster filters better than Fram? I got a free one from someone, its on my car currently. All I see is Fram, at places like Wal-Mart, CT, Pep Boys (or whatever that place is called). I never see much selection. And I never buy stuff like this from a dealer.

[viper_707]

i buy all my filters in bulk from the dealer.

[andrew2]

I use Royal Purple synthetic oil with a K&N oil filter. Usually pick it up from PartSource.

[TheMAN]

I used that stuff when I first got my car and it was around 65,000kms, well before the 120k mark.

Are Motormaster filters better than Fram? I got a free one from someone, its on my car currently. All I see is Fram, at places like Wal-Mart, CT, Pep Boys (or whatever that place is called). I never see much selection. And I never buy stuff like this from a dealer.
looks much better to me
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1710166&gonew=1#UNREAD

you need to search more for other pics... that's all I'm going to do :)

[mmorriso]

I've been using valvoline maxlife for years, changed every 3000-3500k. I've also used Fram filters every time. If Fram is such shit, whats better and where can I find it? Or does it even matter on an over ten year old 4 cyl motor in an econobox?

where do you buy your valvoline maxlife oil?

[dead_cactus]

I bought some Valvoline Maxlife at CT a couple years ago.

[TheMAN]

wallyworld should have it

[991.8l]

yeah, cheap enough by your standards not to care about the $6 price
for $6 though, I rather have a mazda (mahle) oil filter

the supertech shit works too, and its only $2.50 at walmart!

haha supertech.. check this out:

http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/bike-maintenance/14119-jammed-oil-filter-supertech-oil-filters-suck-ass.html

Id prob buy the filter that's easiest to remove with an oil filter socket.. some are a pain.

http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1008

[voy89]

I always use castrol gtx high milage and fram filter. not sure how good this combo is but I never had a problem.

[TheMAN]

haha supertech.. check this out:

http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/bike-maintenance/14119-jammed-oil-filter-supertech-oil-filters-suck-ass.html

Id prob buy the filter that's easiest to remove with an oil filter socket.. some are a pain.

http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1008
ummm operator error
http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/bike-maintenance/14119-jammed-oil-filter-supertech-oil-filters-suck-ass.html#post169368

Ya I was hungry yum yum.

last time i torqued it to 22 ft-lbs, like the manual said well that'll teach me to read the manual! i definitely did not remember to oil the o-ring last time though.

i only tightened it with my hands this time. it'll probably fall off the next time i crash

mike - not bringing the f4i back, but it's doing well now, thanks!! oh hey, can i buy some parts from you? i need the weight that goes into the bar end/grip. also need a passenger footpeg, rear brake pedal, hmm lemme see what else is broken ....
you fail at reading

guess what, your beloved K&N filter comes out of the same factory

[991.8l]

for cheap filters, you can't go wrong with ones made by champion labs (supertech is the cheapest)... they are the makers of the K&N and mobil1 filters to custom specs, but even the cheap shit don't differ that greatly in overall construction except for the filter media basically... purolator is the other good maker... they make NAPA gold filters, the o'reily store brand microgard filter (US only), motorcraft, etc

if crappy tire sells motorcraft, then you can't go wrong with those.... the delco filters are really made by champion labs, I've been using them in my beater for a long time... when my small stock is depleted, I will switch to supertech

Since K&N filters are $15 a pop, going to check out anything sold by Champion Labs.. thanks Edwin.

[mmorriso]

here is an interesting link on filters:

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html#fram

i'm thinking of trying carquest (wix) filters next time

[mmorriso]

just used Motomaster Formula1 Synthetic oil + Carquest Blue filter @ 161K

so far so good

was happy to take off the Defense oil filter that my local garage put on last time...they are supposed to be the cheapest of the cheap by Fram