Fishdonotbounce's ATX Turbo Build

[fishdonotbounce]

OK so this thread has been a long time coming. I installed the turbo around a week ago and have since tuned the car to acceptable standards and have just finished up tucking up all the wires, connecting everything and cleaning the car.

THE BASICS

To begin with, the build started with a huge pile of parts. I decided to go with the MSP turbo setup since it was the easiest, most reliable and cost effective solution for what I was looking for. Seeing as how I have an ATX, I decided to upgrade the valve body with a new one from Lentech Automatics. The valve body reduces slippage that the stock one allows for and creates much faster, solid shifts. This was a must for the build.

The MSP mani, turbo, and s-pipe came to me with around 37k miles on them. The turbo had no shaft play and seemed to be in good condition.

For the intercooler, I decided to go with the altered customs kit from Metallic. The kit is designed for the protege (more specifically the MSP) and wasn't too hard to fit. More on this later.

The engine management I decided to go with is the combo of the Bell Engineering (or Begi for short) Fuel pressure regulator along with the Flyin' Miata o2 Voltage Clamp. This setup proved to be the most reliable and easy to tune in the past for turbo'd autos. Recently, however, I have discovered that someone has figured out how to use the SSAFC with the auto. More on this later as well.

I added 4 gauges to the car to monitor what I think are the most vital things on the car. AEM wideband, Boost, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure. The last three were all purchased from the ebay vendor Glowshift and are the tinted series. I have to say that I'm impressed with the quality for the price and so far recommend these gauges to anyone.

THE INSTALL

The install was a giant undertaking to say the least. Considering the fact that the biggest modification I had done on my own up until this point was putting on my corksport exhaust, it was a little intimidating. However, I spent a majority of the last 6 months preparing for the install by reading anything and everything that I needed to for the install. I printed out all the directions to any part that had directions and took it step by step. The biggest challenge was not allowing the install to get the better of me. As you will see in the videos, at around the end of day 2, I was ready to drop everything and just pass out. I kind of jumped around on the install going from the engine bay to the gauge wiring to setting up the FMIC. This way the job wasn't so monotonous and I didn't get too bored or frustrated with any one thing.

The following are problems that I encountered during the install.

1. When I was ready to put the banjo bolt for the coolant feed into the back of the block, I quickly realized that the bolt that ATP had sent me was way too wide. Since this was at the end of day one and I had spent the entire day working on the car, I was pissed. I spent a good chunk of day two driving around town searching for a replacement or another solution. The solution came in the form of two fittings from Jegs. I was lucky enough to go in on a whim and since they are based here in Columbus, I was able to drive over to the main store and find the parts I was looking for. I got a fitting that fit into the block and one that went on the other side of that one and had a barbed end on it for the 3/8" hose. I got one with a 45 degree elbow and it was perfect. Needless to say, if you do end up getting the banjo bolt from ATP, check the size. The bolt should be a 14mm. Mine looked like it was more of a 17mm.

2. When I got my oil pan tapped, I did not look under the car and take notice of the bracket that is attached to the engine right in front of the oil pan. When I put the new oil pan on, the fitting touched the bracket and there was no way to fit the oil return line onto it. As you can see in the video, I cut the bracket off and solved the problem that way.

3. When fitting the FMIC kit, I had to make some adjustments. The short ram intake provided with my kit was an EXTREMELY tight fit. I had to pull the one fan out, put on the intake, and then force the fan back in, cutting an opening in the top of the fan so that it could fit over the radiator fitting for the upper hose. For any of you auto people that plan on going turbo, the transmission cable is also right there. I also had to cut the splash guard on the driver's side which I didn't expect to have to do. No biggie but a pain in the ass. Another thing was the fact that I had to cut MOST of the lower grille supports and take the lower grille out completely. I have no idea how people with the P5 bumper could fit it on there without doing so. I even have the smaller core and there was no way it would fit without cutting. Also, mounting the core itself is a little tricky. The hardware provided is pretty stupid since the holes in the brackets are too small for the hardware provided. I simply widened the holes using a dremel. Getting the bolt in there and tightened was tough as well.

4. The intake manifold is a BITCH! More specifically, whoever designed the nut on the EGR pipe is a complete dipshit. When removing the intake manifold, I had to disconnect a variety of coolant hoses and wires in order to be able to slide it out while the EGR pipe was still attached. Be ready for this because I really wasn't. I'm sure that if I had to do it again, I would be able to do it in half the time now that I know how to do it. A word of advice on the manifold bolts and nuts. Use a magnetic bolt retriever. One of those that you can extend and get into tight spaces. Made life a good bit easier on those hard to reach bolts.

5. When priming the turbo, I realized a fuel leak at one of the injectors. I found out that upon putting that injector back in, the o-ring was pinched and cut at one side. This was remedied by going to advance and having them rummage through their entire stock of o-rings to find one that fit.

6. When connecting the fuel line adapted that housed the fuel pressure sender, I couldn't get the hose to fit over the fittings on each end. When I did get them to fit after fighting with them for a long time, they would spit and leak fuel upon start up. I found out that NAPA sold me 5/16's hose instead of 3/8. That extra 1/16 made a WORLD of difference and once I got the right size hose, all was right with the world.

7. Tonight I popped a coupler since I didn't use a T-bolt on a couple of them cause I ran out. DO NOT USE REGULAR COUPLERS! Make sure you have enough t-bolts and do it right the first time. If you don't know what popping a coupler feels like, the car loses power, you go REALLY rich, and you get scared as hell.

Disregard the comments about the lower radiator hose needing to be replaced in the video. The pipe that goes through there actually fits really well.

All in all, the install took a total of 6 days from start to driving off with all the parts in, bumper installed etc.

TUNING:

Tuning was quite easy with the begi and voltage clamp. At first, I didn't have the begi hooked up right and i thought that the voltage clamp was bad. It wasn't at all but I ordered a new one from flyin miata and now am selling the old one that works perfectly fine. I didn't figure out my problem until I had already installed the new one.

UPDATE: I got the o2 clamp to finally work. The problem all along was bad connections. When installing the clamp, SOLDER the wires instead of using the vampire clamps they give you. This will ensure a solid connection. I checked out a couple videos on youtube on how to solder and practiced on a couple wires beforehand. Nothing to it. A soldering iron and solder are very cheap but are ESSENTIAL when making connections.

Also, I do not know if this helped the situation but make sure that your MAF is AFTER the BOV, not before.

The begi and the o2 clamp work very very well but the SSAFC is a good alternative as well and gives you a much broader range of tuning possibilities.

OTHER COMMENTS:

As of right now, I'm happy with the way the car is running and boost has completely changed the car. It's hard to explain the difference between NA and turbo, especially on the auto. The valve body is the best mod I have ever installed aside from the turbo itself. It does amazing things.

TURBO PARTS LIST:

MSP Garrett T25 turbo
MSP manifold
MSP s-pipe
Altered Customs FMIC kit
Corksport Power Series Exhaust
HKS ssqv BOV
Lentech Automatics Street Terminator Valve Body
Hayden transmission fluid cooler
Begi RRFPR
Flyin' Miata o2 Voltage Clamp
Millenia PCV valve
AEM UEGO wideband gauge
Glowshift boost gauge
Glowshift fuel pressure gauge
Glowshift oil pressure gauge
ForceFed radio surround dual gauge pod
Gauge surround dual gauge pod (made by yours truly)
BLOX vacuum block
Turbosmart Boost Tee MBC
"Powered by FSDET" gunmetal oil cap
Glowshift oil filter sandwich plate
All fittings, hoses and adapters for oil and coolant lines

[fishdonotbounce]

RECOGNITION:

My uncle - Since I don't have my own garage, it was his garage that I used for the 6 days it took from beginning to end. He put up with having a giant mess in the garage for the entire week and let me use any tools he had. He probably won't ever see this but he definitely deserves to be recognized lol.

Ogi (KrayzieFox) - Not to sound all mushy or anything but without Ogi, this install would NOT have happened. He provided me with an insane amount of information and help way before the install and was the person I called a million times during the install. If I had a problem, he either knew the solution or pointed me in the direction of someone that did. Thanks Ogi, Boost is ***king awesome.

Nate and Jasen (iSpoon and o0n8) - Thanks for standing around and making fun of me while I was doing all the work. Haha jk but like all the installs we do, I probably would have lost my cool a bunch of times if you guys weren't there to shoot the shit with.

Midnitehour - I just recently internet met this guy but he has been nothing but helpful. He too has a turbo'd ATX on which he is running the SSAFC and 440 injectors. He provided me with a good bit of info both in his posts and through his build thread.

StarScream - I also just recently internet met this guy and he has also been very helpful. He provided me with a couple of solutions to my problems during tuning and was overall a very cool guy.

Edwin (TheMAN) - I know what you're thinking. Edwin? Even though Edwin may be rude and over the top a lot of times, his knowledge of our platform is insane and probably the best of anyone I know. He helped me with a couple of issues after everything was put together and for that I have to thank him.

If I forgot anyone, just yell at me and I'll throw you in here. Thanks guys!

[fishdonotbounce]

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http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/Turbo%20pics/DSCN0723.jpg
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UPDATE on 9/25/09 - New Engine Bay Pics
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/DSCN0731.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/DSCN0732.jpg

[fishdonotbounce]

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/9-11-2009/th_20090831221004.jpg (http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/9-11-2009/?action=view&current=20090831221004.flv)
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[fishdonotbounce]

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[e2wJunglist]

First off I want to say nice f.ing ride.

Secondly welcome to the club! I've noticed since you came on the board you have posted quite a bit and are also reaching the Familia picnic which is huge respect to you.

Nice build and looking forward to more pics/activity from you. (no homo :P)

Cheers.


p.s. I love how your videos have "see how i did this here? that is how you Don't do it!" pro work and awesome writeup.

[fishdonotbounce]

Thanks for the comments man. The ride as been the fruit of my labors for the past 3 years. I'm glad that it's appreciated by fellow Mazda owners :D

I don't know why I never frequented this forum before but it feels good to be in the company of all proteges.

I'm glad to be part of this community and can't wait to see you all at the picnic!

[kuhl]

good job man, great write up car looks great!

[fishdonotbounce]

Thanks. Oh and I forgot to mention that I'll have plenty more pics of the car itself after this weekend. There's a good sized meet happening at SATimko's house in northern ohio at which I will be taking plenty pics.

[Azi]

Nice man. Interesting that you got the BOV after the MAF. Normally its the other way around. Any stalling/hesitation when it blows off?

[fishdonotbounce]

None at all. I've literally been told by half of the people that it should go after. The other half say before. Maybe someone can chime in with the actual right way to do it. It's simple for me to just swap them around.

[Azi]

logically, the reason putting the BOV after isnt very good is because the car has measured the air going through the MAF, and when you blow off, that air is released into the atmosphere. therefore, the fuel the ECU trys to put in has no air to combust with, and it causes a rich condition almost to the point of stalling. therefore, if you put it before the MAF, you can blow off and not have to worry about the MAF taking a false reading of the air coming in.

But people have ran it in both positions, and if its working for you, then great.

[midnitehour]

i find you get a rich condition either way, probably less so with the bov before the maf, and this is why:

when you're under boost, the piping between the maf and the throttle body is pressureized, so the maf has already read that x amount of air at xpsi has gone in,

when the bov blows off, the air in that piping will go backwards towards through the maf to the bov to get to atomospheric pressure,

the maf doesn't have a backwards flow reading, air passing through, is air passing through weather it be towards the motor or towards the bov and freedom. so essentially you get the reading of air that passed the maf the first time to pressureize the pipe and then whatever extra you have going back.

the rich condition isn't bad, perhaps just a blip to 10 on the afr guage, but it's there.

sweet setup fish! i'm curious as to how well metalic's fmic is set up. seems the piping is kinda long.
now up the boost!!!! :p

[e2wJunglist]

edit: taken to PM

[TheMAN]

there is no reason to remove the EGR pipe unless you're taking the intake manifold out!

glad you're staying with the stock intake manifold... the 626 thing is a big hype! search my posts and it's explained

delete the VTCS in the stock intake and install the FS-ZE intake cam.... both of these mods will bring the potential out of the stock intake and bring out the top end power out of your engine and take away that surge of torque/power as boost kicks in... which is what's bad for either manuals or autos (especially)... that "kick" is fun but that doesn't really allow the car to perform at its fullest

I added OEM spring clamps to ALL of my vacuum hoses, including the PCV hose... this gives me a peace of mind in case the shit wants to pop off... I replaced the hard to get to hoses with silicone hoses also

you should NEVER EVER use 3/8" fuel hose with our cars! it is too big for the fuel rail and the fuel pipe at the firewall... it will leak! 5/16" IS the correct size... do NOT use worm gear clamps... it will tear the hoses up! use ONLY t-bolt style fuel hose clamps! use only a fuel injection rated hose!

if the 5/16" fuel hose have a hard time fitting into the rrfpr or extra injector fuel rail because it has larger hose barbs, just spray the shit out of the inside of the hose and hose barb with WD40 and cram the hose in! it will fit!

[fishdonotbounce]

I'll up the boost as soon as I can get some bigger injectors and get the SSAFC. Could you provide me with details on how you have yours hooked up and what all is involved in it? I would've done it from the start but I was told it wouldn't work on the auto. :D

[fishdonotbounce]

Thanks for the info Edwin. I'll have to find an adapter that allows the 5/16's hose and switch soon. The only hose that is 3/8 is the one that goes from the stock FPR to the begi. All others are 5/16. I haven't had any leaks whatsoever though with the 3/8 pieces.

The problem I ran into was that when I sprayed the shit with WD40 and got it to fit, the hose would split down the middle and leak due to it being overstretched.

[TheMAN]

the hose you got is real crappy then... it worked fine for me when I helped my friend build his car... why not just change the hose barb out if its removable?

did you torque the manifold in sequence and use ALL new bolts and studs btw?

there is also no real reason to get bigger injectors or a walbro pump on our cars... despite the low flow rate of the injectors and an unknown flow rate of the stock fuel pump, my friends had run 20psi with it daily on a stock block on an MPI with NO issues... one of my friends now has extra injectors on the cold pipe and he can run 25psi now if he wants!

as much PITA the MPI is, it is probably the way to go if you're going for a piggy back and keeping the stock ECU... one of my other friends has a turbo P5 manual with an MPI in it... it's been working fine all these years

[fishdonotbounce]

The barbs are not interchangable. It's all one solid piece. I'll find a replacement at some point.

I actually did not torque them in the right sequence or anything. I just kind of alternated from side to side, top and bottom. No leaks. Is there a reason to you asking?

[TheMAN]

then you better redo it because you'll warp the shit out of your manifold and you'll pull the threads out of the head! I've seen it many times and you HAVE TO BE ANAL ABOUT DOING IT RIGHT ON THE MSP! I've seen AND heard many people who have messed with their MSPs and have exhaust leak issues... my own car and all of my friends that I have helped work on have ZERO leaks because I took care in torquing down the manifold right in the right sequence! make sure you have used new fasteners already if you haven't... reusing old nuts and bolts is what also contributes to bolts backing out, stripping threads, and breaking! I've seen that MANY times also... mazda recommends you ALWAYS replace them every time you service the turbo! if you just put new ones on, its ok to reuse them if you're touching it again right now since they're still new

I posted that torque spec pdf on msprotege, use it!

[fishdonotbounce]

Ok I'll make sure I do that ASAP. Thanks for info :goody:

[TheMAN]

oh and get a metal ruler and lay the straight edge across it diagonally to check for warpage.. if its warped, then it must be milled down... a belt sander usually can do that... any competent machine shop should be able to do that

as for the s-pipe, make sure that is also torqued down properly... the "armpit" part of it is a bitch so I used a cheap wrench and grinded it down to fit... I used my torque adapter special tool to allow me to use my torque wrench on it

make sure the turbo studs and nuts have been replaced... I've seen old ones get crispy and snap off all the time! don't overtorque the new studs... use a proper stud installer and use a torque wrench on it with LOTS of anti-seize.... NEVER EVER use loctite!

there is also a certain way the exhaust manifold gasket must go on.... look at the 2 useless tabs at the top of the gasket... there will be dimples on it... it MUST face outwards


now if you want to have fun, port the manifold and s-pipe out... that'll make this shit almost as good as any aftermarket setup out there... mine was done by MPNick (he ceramic coated it also) and the s-pipe is a good 30% bigger than stock.... it is gasket matched and I had a custom downpipe made to match that also... the car is plenty more fun to drive compared to 100% stock MSP bullshit

[fishdonotbounce]

Quick update. The clamp seems to not be clamping. I'm running lean as all hell. I think eventually I'll be running the SSAFC with the 440's but right now I don't have the money so I need to figure out this setup. More than a few people have had it set up to where they don't go past the very low 12's even at WOT so I'm confident I can make it work. I'm gonna spend all day trying to figure it out tomorrow and hopefully I get it running right.

[TheMAN]

how many miles do you have? maybe your fuel pump has gotten weak because the fuel filter hasn't been changed out?

yeah... you definitely need a piggy back... you can use the SS or the MPI and it'll do the job

[fishdonotbounce]

The fuel pump is strong as hell as I witnessed from the fuel pressures that I'm reading. THe fuel pressure is going up all the way to around 80 which reads AFTER the stock FPR. This means that the little pump is pushing out around 110 psi under full load. I think what's happening is that the clamp is not clamping causing the injectors to not deliver the fuel that's supposed to be delivered. All this extra fuel from the Begi builds up pressure and has no place to go. I'm gonna solder the wires from the clamp directly onto the ecu wires tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll try the old one again since the one I have right now is the new version. I'm just frustrated as hell at this point.

[TheMAN]

soldering wires is the only way to go

get a J&S whenever you have the chance also... that thing SAVES motors... read what I said in miguel's thread on msprotege

the flyin protege setup is nothing but a big ghetto hack to trick the car to add more fuel... even corky bell and flyin miata admitted that the shit sucks... it's not a long term solution.... you NEED a piggy back in your car... its your choice of what to get, but from what I've seen what the MPI can do (20psi on stock block with J&S anyone?), I prefer it myself despite the fact that the tuning software is shitty

and yes, the stock fuel pump can flow plenty... no need for a walbro... my friend runs 24psi on a built block and it can DROWN in fuel (he ***ked up tuning it at first lol)... this is possible because our fuel pumps are the same as the MPV's... a big vehicle with big engine... over built just to be on the safe side in case the fuel filter gets plugged up in that non-turbo (ford piece of shit) van!

[fishdonotbounce]

Just did some practicing with soldering. I think I've got it down pretty well. Off to sleep to get ready for tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[TheMAN]

the best thing to do when soldering wires is... strip half inch off on each end... twist the wires together CLEANLY (I prefer to twist them together so that once together the wires are straight instead of having the wires be next to each other and twisted so that the ends faces outwards... hard to put into words)... then use lead based solder and apply it and allow the solder thats beginning to flow to help transfer heat to the wires... use the flowing solder to flow entirely through the core so that it comes out the other side... actually forcing the solder into the wire while it is in the liquid state will help this go to the other side... this will be a solid connection then!

don't forget the heat shrink tubing!

[midnitehour]

good stuff on getting over little bumps!!! +1 for you

[fishdonotbounce]

I got it working right just now!!!! Soldering FTW! I also swapped the places of the BOV and the MAF so I dunno if that helped as well but I'm almost 100% sure it was the soldering of the o2 clamp wires.

Like Edwin said, soldering is the ONLY way to go. If you go with the begi + o2 clamp route like I did, do NOT use the little vampire clamps they provided. SOLDER the wires directly into the wires.

I am updating the original post to reflect the update so hopefully I can help someone out. I will also be adding recognitions to those people that helped me out prior to, during and after the install.

I will also be adding more information about the car that is not related to the turbo such as visual upgrades, suspension, and any other mods.

Thanks to all of you guys that helped me out. :D

[TheMAN]

nice to hear its working out
I never use wire taps or butt connectors on important shit in my cars... I always solder

[KrayzieFox]

Good that you figured it out man, I told ya to solder that shit right away.. but noooo, don't listen to me.. listen to Edwin instead.

And as for the BEGi and FM clamp combo, I think it works great for low boost applications. I had it on my auto P5-T for 2 years and my AFRs were beautiful, but as soon as I slapped on the 626 IM they went to crap from 4500-5500 RPM. So again, for a stock MSP replica setup it works great.

Anyway, get out there and give us some AFRs Ivan. I wanna know what you mean when you say you "got it working right.." lol.

[TheMAN]

pfft... who'd listen to n00bs? :P
626 intake sucks too... FS-ZE intake or MP3 style intake FTW

btw... autos come with a STOCK engine damper... that shit really works... it's been 3 years since I pieced together mine and it's been working fine... there's hardly any wheel hop at all using parts binned OEM motor mounts!

[fishdonotbounce]

Oh sorry. The AFR's are in the 11-12 region even at WOT. I think I saw 13.0 ONCE during the bunch of times I took it out already.

[fishdonotbounce]

Edwin where is the stock engine dampener located? Oh and I have front and rear AWR 88 duros, SU passenger side, and Medival Transmission mount. The transmission mount DID fit. I don't know why people say it doesn't. It wasn't like I had to change anything either. It was the same length and everything as the stock one.

[TheMAN]

its by the radiator
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/engmount.jpg

the sport20 motor mount is the auto equivalent solution to the MSP motor mount we manual guys use too... obviously you can't get it from the dealer.... you'll have to import it (from places that sell JDM mazda shits ;) )

[fishdonotbounce]

Sweet. I always wondered what that piece was. Kinda makes sense that it's a dampener lol. What are your thoughts on the Weapon-R engine damper? Do you think it would be overkill for me to get it as well?

[TheMAN]

useless piece of shit
the stock damper actually has shit in it that does something! it's a wind up spiral spring inside

[fishdonotbounce]

Good to know. Thanks

[KrayzieFox]

pfft... who'd listen to n00bs? :P
626 intake sucks too... FS-ZE intake or MP3 style intake FTW
I hate you.. :mad:

And yea the 626 isn't all that it's cracked up to be. It feels great past 4000 RPM, but the low end loss is definitely noticeable. I think I might re-swap manifolds between the P5 and MP3.. P5 got the OEM MP3 and the MP3 got the 626.. and see how I like it. I always told the auto guys to stay away from the 626 and just do the VTCS delete, but I think I might listen to my own advice and apply it to the MP3 as well.
Oh sorry. The AFR's are in the 11-12 region even at WOT. I think I saw 13.0 ONCE during the bunch of times I took it out already.
Good, try to keep it out of 13's altogether if you can. By the way when does the clamp actually kick in? At how much vacuum?
Sweet. I always wondered what that piece was. Kinda makes sense that it's a dampener lol. What are your thoughts on the Weapon-R engine damper? Do you think it would be overkill for me to get it as well?
In my opinion, Weapon-R is just pure shit all around. It's one of those aftermarket companies that just makes stuff for people who just want aftermarket goodies. I know Edwin says this a lot, and I totally agree with him, but a lot of aftermarket stuff is shit.

And no multi-quote function FTL on this forum..

[TheMAN]

here's one detail not many people know.... it was talked about here but people are forgetful for some reason

the P5 VICS butterflies suck compared to the MP3, MSP, and FS-ZE... hell even the FP-DE
mazda cheaped out and changed the rod design and so install the VICS flaps on top of the rod instead of THROUGH it like the MP3/MSP/FS-ZE/FP-DE... so the long term vibrations and turbulence in the intake causes the screws to rattle loose and/or hog out the screw holes in the butterflies... then the shit pops off

so... this makes the MP3/MSP shit much more valuable as far as "easy to get" intakes goes in the USDM... they are meant for the higher airflow without ***king up!
same goes for the FS-ZE shit... I never took mine apart but I saw pics of people's split open and it gives me confidence that the shit is built right!

[midnitehour]

its by the radiator
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/engmount.jpg

the sport20 motor mount is the auto equivalent solution to the MSP motor mount we manual guys use too... obviously you can't get it from the dealer.... you'll have to import it (from places that sell JDM mazda shits ;) )
good to know what that is... +1 for the autos.

I wonder why mazda made that desciscion tho? the auto has super low line pressure for super smooth shifts.. why not in the manual?

[midnitehour]

Edwin where is the stock engine dampener located? Oh and I have front and rear AWR 88 duros, SU passenger side, and Medival Transmission mount. The transmission mount DID fit. I don't know why people say it doesn't. It wasn't like I had to change anything either. It was the same length and everything as the stock one.


word on the tranny mount.. everything fits the same.. the bracketry past the mount is different.

[TheMAN]

mazda were cheap asses and I engineered something better than they ever put out from the factory
it was literally parts binned shit!

this is what I did:
automatic crossmember
JDM 4WD Sport20 motor mount bracket
EDM turbo diesel motor mount

took me a month to get the shit but was worth it!

[midnitehour]

^pictars?

or is it what you've posted?

[TheMAN]

look on imazda
thats only one of the pics

[kz9]

the flyin protege setup is nothing but a big ghetto hack to trick the car to add more fuel... even corky bell and flyin miata admitted that the shit sucks... it's not a long term solution.... you NEED a piggy back in your car...


:confused:

My o2 clamp works great! Makes tuning easy with my E-Manage. I don't know if other PB ecu's are different, but E-Manage doesn't like no clamp.

[fishdonotbounce]

Just got back from hanging out with Bert, Jasen and Sunny. Had the scare of a lifetime when I popped a coupler off the throttle body. Car completely bogged down and air fuel ratios went off the chart rich. I thought I blew up the transmission or motor or something. Put the coupler back on and tightened the clamp with some nail clippers and a dime. Yea that's right. Off to Jeg's tomorrow for some T-Bolt clamps.

I'm updating the original post to warn people against using regular clamps. Yes, I know it's been said before a million and half times but I thought that at such low boost it wouldn't be that bad. Popping a coupler is scary as ***k.

[TheMAN]

haha.... I was a cheap ass and bought some cheap t-bolt clamps.... they're not bad but the size were all too big for the hose tech couplers I have... so while everything stayed in place, I had leaks everywhere... I ended up double clamping the shit with worm gear clamps till the right t-bolt clamps from hose tech came in... now it all works great!

[fishdonotbounce]

Edwin, would you be able to help out with this?

Since I have the autotragic without the tiptronic, am I able to dyno? I have 1,2 then D so I wouldn't be able to do a 4th gear pull. Would a 2nd gear pull be good or?

[TheMAN]

press the O/D button, duh!

you want a 3rd gear pull, not 4th gear!

[fishdonotbounce]

Ok I didn't know if I could do that or not. Just making sure. Thanks Edwin!

[fishdonotbounce]

Ok I now have a comparison video post turbo. First vid is after I put the corksport exhaust on while I was still NA. Second is just a few hours ago that I took with the turbo.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/th_20090720220952.jpg (http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/?action=view&current=20090720220952.flv)

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/9-20-2009/th_20090919214410.jpg (http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/fishdonotbounce/9-20-2009/?action=view&current=20090919214410.flv)

[Azi]

you wont be able to do a full 3rd gear pull. at speeds under 110km/h (60ish) the tranny will jump down a gear. I think you will have to do it in 2nd.

[TheMAN]

true... probably just want to just start the pull right from 30mph after it gets into 2nd

[joghia]

Loving the post-turbo video!

[fishdonotbounce]

New Engine Bay pics added to original pic post.

[Shulman_]

Quick question... other than purchasing the turbo kit and valve head and other parts... what would the labour cost to install a turbo onto a auto p5?

[dead_cactus]

^ Depends on who you get to do the work. If your getting someone to do everything I would budget to set aside $2000 or more, hopefully it would cost much less but I would set aside more incase you run into issues, find you need additional parts, etc.

I'm sure if you got all the parts and stuff together you could post up and people might be willing to lend a hand in return for pizza and beer.

[Shulman_]

I wouldnt mind the pizza and beer part at all! lol I also wouldnt mind working on it myself either... I'm just trying to figure out how long the car would be off the road for, as well as how much $$ i'll need for this project...


^ Depends on who you get to do the work. If your getting someone to do everything I would budget to set aside $2000 or more, hopefully it would cost much less but I would set aside more incase you run into issues, find you need additional parts, etc.

I'm sure if you got all the parts and stuff together you could post up and people might be willing to lend a hand in return for pizza and beer.

[Shulman_]

As for the turbo kit itself... do people suggest going the mazdaspeed route? or would one of the say ebay turbo kits work and be reliable?

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?Make=Mazda&Part%2520Type=Turbos%252C%2520Nitrous%252C%2520Superchargers&_nkw=protege%20turbo&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_fln=1&_ssov=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282

Thanks,
Matt

[Azi]

egay? seriously?

[Shulman_]

^ lol... im just looking around, doing some research... Can't ask questions?

[dead_cactus]

If you want reliability stick with the stock Mazdaspeed set up.

http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55027

http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54662

[Shulman_]

I'm trying to get a hold of london... the other one has way to many kms, or i would have been interested

If you want reliability stick with the stock Mazdaspeed set up.

http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55027

http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54662