How to: Replace front engine mount

[991.8l]

Tools:

1. 17mm & 10mm socket
2. Torque wrench, breaker bar wrench
3. Hammer
4. Jack w/ hockey puck

Time: 20-30mins


Step 1 - Use your breaker bar to loosen the 2x17 mm nuts that hold the motor mount to the subframe.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8989.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8989.jpg)

Step 2 - Remove the 3x10mm bolts that hold the splash guard under the transmission.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8980.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8980.jpg)


Step 3 - Jack the car up using the front subframe, this is temporary to allow you access to the side bolt on the motor mount. Use the breaker bar to loosen that up. Then lower the car, and place your jack under the oil pan (with a hockey puck like I did, or a piece of wood) and jack it up slightly until the motor moves up.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8976.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8976.jpg)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8988.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8988.jpg)

Step 4 - Remove the 3 nuts on the mount, and the pin that runs through the mount (use the hammer if you need to)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8982.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8982.jpg)

Step 5 - Pull the old mount out of the engine bay from the top or bottom.

My engine mount was completely torn on all sides, and was not holding anything!

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8984.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8984.jpg)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8983.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8983.jpg)

Step 6 - Put your new mount in the old mounts place, and attempt to push the pin through the bracket. Make sure you put the new mount in the same place the old one was (there is a mark on the mount that will help you know which way it should face). Use the hammer to get it through the hole, I also found that if you screw it into the hole.. it makes it easier.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8986.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8986.jpg)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8987.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8987.jpg)

Step 7 - Pull all your nuts back on using your hand then tighten to 50 lbs-ft using your torque wrench. Don't over tighten, or the threads will strip very easily. (Ask me how I know)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8981.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8981.jpg)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8978.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8978.jpg)

Step 8 - Put back the splash guard, and you are done!

[dead_cactus]

Awesome how-to. Thanks for sharing.

[00granpagreen]

Soooo, hows my former mount?

[991.8l]

^ haha getting use to it, at some points I feel more vibration than I want. I may end up swapping in a oem mount if I can get my hands on one. Sometimes I don't even notice it, especially with the A/C on today... no vibration. Definitely livable. Thanks again Alex.

[TheMAN]

NEVER EVER jack up the engine without a block of wood on the jack!

[kevcol74]

^ This is Canada, eh! We use hockey pucks instead apparently! :pointlaug


Good call TheMAN, unless you want to hear your crank scraping your oil pan! :P Or a crack oil pan in the case of an aluminum one!

[viper_707]

good this reminds me i still have to install my awr mounts

[991.8l]

NEVER EVER jack up the engine without a block of wood on the jack!

I used a hockey puck, that ok? :D

or do we need wood to distribute the weight (I couldn't get a piece of wood in there.. was so low to the ground without having the car on jack stands).

[00bluees]

good how to.

another general tip for hammering out stuck bolts (should you come across one) spin the nut just onto the bolt so when you are hammering the crap out of it you are hitting the nut and it doesnt mash up the threads on the end of the bolt. this isnt really necessary if you are just tapping lightly of course.

[thuzil]

When I tried to get the bolt out it would not budge. Took a mallet to it as I did not want to use a hammer in the small confines of the engine compartment. Finally I used some penetrating oil (well a lot of penetrating oil) and left it for about an hour. Some more pounding, some more oil and another hour and it was out. I guess that patience is the key sometimes.

[AssociateRecords]

did you have a really rough motor shake when starting the car? and when shifting from 1st t0 2nd? i gotta do this next weekend

[thuzil]

lots of deflection in the shifter upon acceleration.

[non_event]

Is there some trick I'm missing to this? I tried for about an hour this morning and couldn't get any of the bolts loose at all. And I've been spraying them with penetrating oil every day or every other day for the last week or so. The only thing that managed to come loose was the socket wrench I managed to break. I guess that will teach me to use cheap tools.

[dead_cactus]

^ Try using a breaker bar

[non_event]

Yeah, that is the next step after I got to CT and buy a new socket wrench. I tried using my longest box wrench on the end of the socket wrench, but it still wasn't working.

[991.8l]

I couldn't budge it without the breaker bar, thats a must for this job IMO.

[red-i]

I gotta post up a pic of what my front motor mount looked like when caker and I took it out the other week. it was completely messed up. it took joe and I a pretty long time to get the medieval one in becuase the engine had actually shifted over towards the passenger side by over an inch.

seriously anyone with original mounts likely has most if not all of them all ripped apart by now.

[CrazyCaker]

^ doesn't help that all your other mounts are torn up lol. Your motor was basically free floating in there hahaha.

[CulRidr]

^Wouldn't that make it easier to shift it around? :P

[non_event]

OK, I can't get the one that goes through the mount free at all, even using a breaker bar. I'm also sure that I f'ed something up doing so, because the pin just spins now. All I have to show for my work is 1 broken socket wrench, 1 broken extension, and a lesson learned about not using super cheap tools for heavy work.

Anyone somewhat local feel like giving me a hand with this? Willing to pay cash, provide beer etc.

Edit: I also have a new, slightly better socket wrench, so I have that going for me.

[991.8l]

OK, I can't get the one that goes through the mount free at all, even using a breaker bar. I'm also sure that I f'ed something up doing so, because the pin just spins now. All I have to show for my work is 1 broken socket wrench, 1 broken extension, and a lesson learned about not using super cheap tools for heavy work.

Anyone somewhat local feel like giving me a hand with this? Willing to pay cash, provide beer etc.

Edit: I also have a new, slightly better socket wrench, so I have that going for me.

If the pin spins then you have to cut it off with an angle grinder. I had to do this also... PITA.

[non_event]

Oh great. I can't wait to do that. How much was the new pin at the dealer?

[991.8l]

Oh great. I can't wait to do that. How much was the new pin at the dealer?

Depends which pin is spinning around. Is it the one that runs horizontal through the rubber mount?

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/th_PICT8982.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/?action=view&current=PICT8982.jpg)


or is it the one of the two studs that run veritical?

[non_event]

Runs through the mount. The other two I managed to get free, and the new mount has those built in. But the mount I got doesn't have the straight through one included.

[991.8l]

Runs through the mount. The other two I managed to get free, and the new mount has those built in. But the mount I got doesn't have the straight through one included.

ohh ok... does the nut spin around or the pin itself?

If its the pin that spins and not the nut.. thats ok.. just grab the other side of it with a plyers.

[non_event]

I tried to get some pliers in there to hold it, but for the life of me I couldn't get the damn thing to break loose and have the nut start spinning off the pin. I've ordered a new pin and bolt, total cost about $5, so I will just deal with it on Friday when the parts get in.

Anyone have tips for cutting the pin? It seems to be a fairly tight area, that is why I ask.

[991.8l]

I tried to get some pliers in there to hold it, but for the life of me I couldn't get the damn thing to break loose and have the nut start spinning off the pin. I've ordered a new pin and bolt, total cost about $5, so I will just deal with it on Friday when the parts get in.

Anyone have tips for cutting the pin? It seems to be a fairly tight area, that is why I ask.

would be easier to cut the nut off.. I know its tight in there so I would first try to push the pin all the way to the right so that it auto-locks in place using the metal built into the mount itself. See pic below what I mean:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/PICT8987.jpg

[non_event]

Mine started spinning free against the metal thing. Thats the problem. And yes, I was turning it the correct way. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I guess I will be having fun with a hacksaw in there. Boy, I can't wait. I don't see how I can get an angle grinder or jig saw in there, and I don't really want to buy any new tools right now.

In the mean time I'll keep soaking it in penetrating oil and hoping for the best when I get around to doing it, but I'm ready to cut the thing off.

But again, if anyone wants to give me a hand with this I'm happy to pay, provide beer, food etc.

[991.8l]

^ GL man. I still say Pliers and a breaker bar should do it. My bolt was 10 years old and I got it free.. keep at it. Will be a lot easier than trying to cut anything I promise you.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/2K5TSX/Motor%20Mounts/PICT8976.jpg

[non_event]

I know, I'm going to keep trying to get the pin out without having to cut it, I'm just prepared to have to cut it if I can't get it free. Hopefully with a lot more liquid wrench and time it will come free.

[CrazyCaker]

Have you guys never heard of air tools before? An impact would have had it off in about 3 secs flat.

[non_event]

^Yep, I just don't own any, have the space for any, or have any local friends with any.

My gin levels are rising rapidly right now, so my frustration levels at it are falling rapidly.

[non_event]

Update. Finally got around to doing it today. New AWR mount is in, no more clunking when shifting from 1st to 2nd, or when letting off the clutch in first.

Next up: passenger side and tranny mount. Any tips for those?

[rogkum]

Where are you guys getting your mounts from? I think I just need an OEM front mount, as I'm trying to reduce vibration, not too concerned with performance. Any local sources that may have it at a good price? I found it on Rockauto.com for about $30.

[Hacker]

I bought one from onlinemazdaparts.com for $41.76+shipping in 2008.

J.

[non_event]

Parts source was about $50 for a generic one.

[rogkum]

Thanks for the helpful DIY. Changed my front engine mount last night without too much hassles. The old one wasn't as in bad condition as I thought, so the new one was only a subtle improvement.