Looking for a car detailer...

[123zoom]

Any recommendations?

Car is not in rough shape, would just like it sparkling again.

ideas? contacts? prices?

[dead_cactus]

MIS

http://makeitshine.ca (http://makeitshine.ca/)

[Nutella]

^ holy crap, those pics of their work is sick as hell!

[AKRISONER]

man if i had the money id get that shit done, wow unreal.

[Nutella]

yeah that's high roller's spending level. $400-700 on shining your car. damn!

[dead_cactus]

You get what you pay for. Mikeweb had his car detailed by Kaval at Make it Shine.

[Cool_Steve]

yeah that's high roller's spending level. $400-700 on shining your car. damn!

I'm greatly considering working some OT to get a buff by him.

123zoom, if you're paint isn't in rough shape a handwax could be just what the doctor ordered. I'm in Kitchener if you want a detail. PM me if interested. btw, what color is your car?

[raghtal]

After paying someone else to do it a couple of times, I do my own detailing now. In the winter I use a coin op machine to hose down the car to remove all the road debris and snow, ice etc. For the first detailing of the year, this is my process:

Hose down the entire exterior of the car. Keep all surfaces wet until they are soapy in the next step. Start on the front face of the car, then the hood, then the roof, the driver's side, the rear, the passenger side, and finish up doing the hood, again.

Working in sections, use a microfibre wash mitt and a bucket of hot water mixed with a capful of Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner. I rinse each section using a low power setting on the hose. I use a microfibre shammy to remove all standing water from the car's surfaces. Takes about 1 hour to wash the car, cause I wash each section twice for the first detailing of the year.

I then proceed using Mothers 3 step system

Prewax cleaner, applied by hand, and removed by hand using microfibre shammys. Takes about 45-60 minutes

Sealer/glaze. Same process, takes about an hour

Pure Carnauba wax, same buff, haze, remove process, takes about 75 minutes.

I then clean the rims using the same Car Wash Shampoo, a mitt and some shop towels to clean all spots, including the inside of the rim.

I then use Mother's Tire shine. I move the car to the road, and shove cardboard pieces under the tires to protect the road from the product. Follow label directions, removing any excess.

I then park the car in the driveway again and vacuum (using a ShopVac) and Swiffer the interior. I don't use any products of any kind on the interior plastic, leather, etc.

I finish off using Stoner's Glass cleaner on all windows. For the inside, I just use damp cloth so as not to harm the tint.

The Protege takes about 6 hours. The Acura TL is a bit bigger, so it takes about 7 hours. I do a repeat of Mother's Steps 2 and 3 when I was the car in the spring summer and fall, which is about once every 2 weeks.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/2696414290_ebfba94e2e_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2326/1584263540_21bd45906e_b.jpg

What does a car look like after years of this kind of devotion?

Here is my 2001 Integra on the day I traded it in in 2007
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1384/769592900_cee10d5984_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/hosting/sets/72157600746861786/)

I'm going to buy an orbital buffer to speed up the waxing step, but I still plan to do most of the work by hand.
http://www.gamerevolution.com/images/misc/Image/wax_on_wax_off.jpg

[123zoom]

i want to do my 96 accord, it has been repainted, the gunmetal grey colour from nissan/infiniti

[Cool_Steve]

That's a nice color. Not freshly repainted, right? As you know, fresh paint needs time to cure and I wouldn't want to wax it until its been at least 3-4 months.

[kaval]

I'd be glad to take on this job for you.

The packages on my website are broken down based on your paint's condition and more importantly your expectation(s). That's not to say the cheaper packages deliver 'less.' It's all based on what you want out of the detail. So if you're looking to clean up the paint and keep it protected, the All-in-One Package is your best choice. If you've got a ton of swirls, the Elite Package is your best choice.

btw raghtal, nice work!

[991.8l]

I need a pro to clean the carpets in my protege, how much to do my carpets... they have like 10 years of salt stains that are hard as a rock... no idea how to get it off... been trying for a while. Thinking steam clean kinda thing?

[dead_cactus]

^ Have you tried hot water?

This is an interior done by Make it Shine, awesome work. I'll be having him do my car this summer.

http://www.makeitshine.ca/Site/Portfolio/corollainterior/corollainterior.html

[991.8l]

^ Have you tried hot water?

This is an interior done by Make it Shine, awesome work. I'll be having him do my car this summer.

http://www.makeitshine.ca/Site/Portfolio/corollainterior/corollainterior.html

no I heard that also from another member, gotta try boiling water.

wow amazing job on that corolla... looks about like my driver seat... did they actually remove the seats for that detail? Lots of work!

[dead_cactus]

Yep, from the looks of it the seats were removed. IMO its really the only way to really clean all the carpet and stuff is to remove the drivers and passenger side seats, quite easy and only takes a couple minutes on the Protege.

[Cool_Steve]

I need a pro to clean the carpets in my protege, how much to do my carpets... they have like 10 years of salt stains that are hard as a rock... no idea how to get it off... been trying for a while. Thinking steam clean kinda thing?

10 years? shiiiiit. It needs a steam clean and scrub. Lots of scubbing to break it down.

[shrews8]

Hey I was just reading up on different ways to clean your car and came accross your "How-To". I was just wondering about the "Mother's 3-step system" and what is needed to do it....Is that a product you can buy, or just a process recommended by Mothers?

After paying someone else to do it a couple of times, I do my own detailing now. In the winter I use a coin op machine to hose down the car to remove all the road debris and snow, ice etc. For the first detailing of the year, this is my process:

Hose down the entire exterior of the car. Keep all surfaces wet until they are soapy in the next step. Start on the front face of the car, then the hood, then the roof, the driver's side, the rear, the passenger side, and finish up doing the hood, again.

Working in sections, use a microfibre wash mitt and a bucket of hot water mixed with a capful of Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner. I rinse each section using a low power setting on the hose. I use a microfibre shammy to remove all standing water from the car's surfaces. Takes about 1 hour to wash the car, cause I wash each section twice for the first detailing of the year.

I then proceed using Mothers 3 step system

Prewax cleaner, applied by hand, and removed by hand using microfibre shammys. Takes about 45-60 minutes

Sealer/glaze. Same process, takes about an hour

Pure Carnauba wax, same buff, haze, remove process, takes about 75 minutes.

I then clean the rims using the same Car Wash Shampoo, a mitt and some shop towels to clean all spots, including the inside of the rim.

I then use Mother's Tire shine. I move the car to the road, and shove cardboard pieces under the tires to protect the road from the product. Follow label directions, removing any excess.

I then park the car in the driveway again and vacuum (using a ShopVac) and Swiffer the interior. I don't use any products of any kind on the interior plastic, leather, etc.

I finish off using Stoner's Glass cleaner on all windows. For the inside, I just use damp cloth so as not to harm the tint.

The Protege takes about 6 hours. The Acura TL is a bit bigger, so it takes about 7 hours. I do a repeat of Mother's Steps 2 and 3 when I was the car in the spring summer and fall, which is about once every 2 weeks.

[dead_cactus]

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/product/images/07100.jpghttp://www.mothers.com/02_products/product/images/08100.jpghttp://www.mothers.com/02_products/product/images/05550-05750.jpg

[shrews8]

^How much does it cost around? Anyone know?

[dead_cactus]

^How much does it cost around? Anyone know?

There is a guy on TOP who sells Mothers stuff, i've bought from Mark a couple times in the past.

Link to Mothers GB (http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48751)

- California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner Step-1 (#07100) - $9

- California Gold Sealer and Glaze Step-2 (#08100) - $11

- California Gold Carnauba wax Step-3 16oz(#05750) - $16


At Canadian Tire you would be looking at;

California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner Step-1 - $9.49

California Gold Sealer and Glaze Step-2 - $10.79

California Gold Carnauba wax Step-3 - $21.79

[shrews8]

How are those 3 different steps applied? Do you need to buy a buffer or something? Basically, along with those cleaners.. what tools to you have to buy to apply properly?

[dead_cactus]

^ You can apply them all by hand. Raghtal's post was pretty detailed, this stuff is pretty easy to do and if you find yourself with more questions there is usually detailed instructions on the bottle. As for things needed I would pick up a couple applicators, 2 buckets, wash mitt, quality microfibre cloths, etc.

[shrews8]

Applicators? For example?

[dead_cactus]

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/649/X3070_SoftFoamApplicator.jpg

[y2jay]

you can just use a microfibre cloth to apply, applicator is not absolutely necessary.

After having used the Mothers 3 step process multiple times (with random orbital, and by hand), then using a rotary buffer with professional grade abrasive compounds and polish's, I have to say hands down that Mothers can not compare. Now don't get me wrong, Mothers 3 step will give you results, but it just hides/fills imperfections (swirls, scratches, oxidation) as opposed to removing them like a buffing compound and rotary buffer will.

But I'd suggest using the Mothers, and following the steps as outlined earlier. Good ol' gritty hand buffing will do the job. Make sure you have Microfibre cloths, two buckets, sheepskin mitt, and dishwasher soap to remove any previous wax and residue to prepare for buffing and waxing.

[raghtal]

sheepskin mitt
Exnay on the sheepskinay.

Sheepskin wool breaks down, and leaves fluffy bits.

Ask any farmsider. Sheep wool doesn't stand up to rapid/constant/rigorous handling. Then again, if you like getting your hand up inside something wooly, knock yourself out.

I recommend this instead;

http://www.realgood-cn.com/SysImg/Realgood_PMedium/2-in-1-Wash-Mitt-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt-918415261173701.jpg http://images.amazon.com/images/G/01/stores/auto/detail-page/B000QX52CM1lg.jpg

[shrews8]

I use one of these to clean already.

I have a question... What if you clean your car and you end up with dirt streaks on the car? What would that be from, the mit being bad, the water being dirty or a combination?

Also, what is the best way to get water spots that are caked on OFF?

[raghtal]

I use one of these to clean already.

I have a question... What if you clean your car and you end up with dirt streaks on the car? What would that be from, the mit being bad, the water being dirty or a combination?

Also, what is the best way to get water spots that are caked on OFF?

Dirt streaks are likely from a dirty mit. Make sure your rinse out your mit in the bucket before going back with the soapy stuff. If your car is THAT dirty, take it to a car wash to hose down most of the mud/crap, then get it home to do the fine details by hand.

Caked on water spots should come off via the methods I describe in general washing. What I do is wash my car, then back it in to the garage so its in the shade and shammy off all the standing water so I don't get the dready white caked on rings...

[shrews8]

It was last night around 7 I was doing it, so there was barely any sun and when I was cleaning my windows the water spots didn't seem to want to come off unless I really scrubbed hard...

[raghtal]

It was last night around 7 I was doing it, so there was barely any sun and when I was cleaning my windows the water spots didn't seem to want to come off unless I really scrubbed hard...

Hard water?

[shrews8]

So how do you fix that lol

[thekid]

^ Water softener!
http://www.watervalue.com/img/autotrolcab.jpg

[y2jay]

^^
Squeege your windows first, right after you finished rinsing.
OR
http://www.mrclean.ca/en_CA/products/autodry.shtml
works well, but not worth it

I've used microfibre mitts, and found that they get dirty way too quickly and don't suspend dirt like a sheepskin wool mitt does, but rather traps it on the surface of the mitt.

[shrews8]

Do you know how much that Mr Clean thing runs around?

^^
Squeege your windows first, right after you finished rinsing.
OR
http://www.mrclean.ca/en_CA/products/autodry.shtml
works well, but not worth it

I've used microfibre mitts, and found that they get dirty way too quickly and don't suspend dirt like a sheepskin wool mitt does, but rather traps it on the surface of the mitt.

[ProDJtege]

If you are looking for a solution to remove water droplet residue anywhere on your car, just buy a set of about 4 microfibre cloths. Wash your car, and then immediately dry the entire car (windows first) with those microfibre cloths. Those cloths will take away all the water impurities that would usually dry up to leave residue. I use these cloths even after a gas-station car-wash and I get super shiny results. It's alot like using a chamois, except chamois are less re-usable.

You can even throw microfibre cloths into the washing machine and get em almos like new.

[y2jay]

Do you know how much that Mr Clean thing runs around?

30-35$ depending on the set you get. I think there are two sets available.

They sometimes go on sale for 20-25$

[shrews8]

Where do they sell it? I didn't see it on the CT website...

30-35$ depending on the set you get. I think there are two sets available.

They sometimes go on sale for 20-25$

[dead_cactus]

Where do they sell it? I didn't see it on the CT website...

CT, WalMart, Zellers, Superstore

[CulRidr]

Applicators are great because your hand takes a LOT more time to get all cramped up...
If you are looking for a solution to remove water droplet residue anywhere on your car, just buy a set of about 4 microfibre cloths. Wash your car, and then immediately dry the entire car (windows first) with those microfibre cloths. Those cloths will take away all the water impurities that would usually dry up to leave residue. I use these cloths even after a gas-station car-wash and I get super shiny results. It's alot like using a chamois, except chamois are less re-usable.

You can even throw microfibre cloths into the washing machine and get em almos like new.
I just clean one section of the car at a time so the water never has time to dry; clean roof, dry roof; clean windows, dry windows; clean doors, dry doors...etc.

[shrews8]

Easier said than done, considering the hose sprays everywhere (mist) and then makes the whole area that you just dried wet again.


Applicators are great because your hand takes a LOT more time to get all cramped up...

I just clean one section of the car at a time so the water never has time to dry; clean roof, dry roof; clean windows, dry windows; clean doors, dry doors...etc.

[y2jay]

Easier said than done, considering the hose sprays everywhere (mist) and then makes the whole area that you just dried wet again.

Rule #1 of rinsing a car.
Do not use an attachment. Just the hose without an attachment and rinse. This method prevents the issue of misting, and because the stream of water is steady laminar flow, the water just sheets off of the car as opposed to beading.

Also rinse and dry in sections as curlridr mentioned

[CulRidr]

^very good rule.

Or you can do what I do: don't use a hose...
http://www.optimumcarcare.com/onrwns.htm?li=2

[shrews8]

^Where do you get that stuff?

[CulRidr]

www.eshine.ca

[raghtal]

^Where do you get that stuff?

http://www.toprotege.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12148&stc=1&d=1241458570

[shrews8]

^I'd rather go buy it from the store if it's possible... Buying online is more of a last resort for me. I saw the site, thanks for pointing that out though lol

[raghtal]

^I'd rather go buy it from the store if it's possible... Buying online is more of a last resort for me. I saw the site, thanks for pointing that out though lol

Oh, I see I didn't put in this :p

Thanks for being a sport! :woot:

[Nutella]

Is there a local GTA store one can buy "Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine" ?

[CulRidr]

eshine is not far from the GTA...other then that, I have no idea. Product is awesome though, especially since you can mix your own clay lube and quick detailer with it :)

[dead_cactus]

I recommend this instead;

http://www.realgood-cn.com/SysImg/Realgood_PMedium/2-in-1-Wash-Mitt-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt-918415261173701.jpg http://images.amazon.com/images/G/01/stores/auto/detail-page/B000QX52CM1lg.jpg

These are awesome, I get mine at Costco for $10

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c73/fourtrack78/car/DSCN3228-1.jpg

[shrews8]

Are you supposed to do the 3 step waxing on the windows as well? or avoid the windows?



Prewax cleaner, applied by hand, and removed by hand using microfibre shammys. Takes about 45-60 minutes

[dead_cactus]

I don't think I would be using on that stuff on the windows or trim pieces. I use glass cleaner for the windows, also if needed you can use claybar on your windows.

[raghtal]

Are you supposed to do the 3 step waxing on the windows as well? or avoid the windows?

NO!!!

http://www.storesonline.com/members/564545/uploaded/glass.jpg

I use Stoner's Glass cleaner on the outside of the windows, and both sides of the inside windshield. I have tints, so its only the odd touch up on the inside with a damp lint free cloth.

[Cool_Steve]

i used polish on my windshield once. thinny applied, buffed off by hand with a microfibre. almost as good as glass cleaner and/or rainx

[shrews8]

I just did the first coat and while I was taking it off, it was coming off as thick dust and sticking to the car quite a bit. Could this be because I used to much or let it dry too long?

[dead_cactus]

How long did you let it sit for? How much did you use? A bottle should last quite awhile.

[shrews8]

For something the size of a front quarter panel I used one dab. The bumper took about 2 dabs. Then I let it dry for about 15 mins or so.

[Skanky]

this thread has been thoroughly jacked...

anyone know of a DETAILER???
we live in Maple and i work at Pt.Union and Lawrence in SE scarboro.

we may be selling my wife's 03 DX2.0 Pro and it needs the professional touch.

don't want to spend a fortune- just make it look good for sale.

any suggestions?

[dead_cactus]

Send a PM to MS_MSP as he used to do this on the side, not sure if he does anymore but worth asking.

Curious what you think you'll be asking for your Pro. I'll be listing mine soon as well.

[hatinenj]

als protege does as well i heard

[sumrandomguy]

this thread has been thoroughly jacked...

anyone know of a DETAILER???
we live in Maple and i work at Pt.Union and Lawrence in SE scarboro.

we may be selling my wife's 03 DX2.0 Pro and it needs the professional touch.

don't want to spend a fortune- just make it look good for sale.

any suggestions?


i do detailing work on the side
sent you a PM

[Wes_R]

Hey guys I am a pro detailer in the GTA area and have gone into business full time this year. Here is an example of my work.

I honestly don't know how to start this so let's just get straight into it.

So I was contacted initially for advice on how to deal with the swirls with the Porter Cable, Optimum Polishes, and some Lake Country Pads but along the conversation when I mentioned how long it would take we just decided that I would take it on. Problem now was it was gonna be a 2 week wait cause I was already booked up and the anticipation was killing me, I was really excited to spend time with godzilla.

Upon the GT-Rs arrival I had a chance to properly inspect the paint with my Sun Gun. At first in my mind I honestly thought that just a 1 step or 2 step polish at the most would be needed but taking a closer shocked look I realized that this was gonna need a full paint correction.

Anyway, here we go hopefully you guys enjoy the pics and possibly catch some tips.



Lets start with the basics. I don't approach a vehicle with anything on my clothing that could accidently scratch the car for example zippers, a belt buckle, watch, rings, etc.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/1.jpg



Got in and backed it out.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/3.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/2.jpg



And here she is.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/4.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/5.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/6.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/7.jpg



My routine is to start with the wheels and engine generally because if you have already washed the car and then have to do either you will get the car dirty all over again.

Sprayed p21s Wheel Gel on the rims and tires. What's great about this wheel cleaner is it is non-acidic, meaning if you got ceramic brakes they won't damage them as say an acid based wheel cleaner would.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/8.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/9.jpg

Let those soak and sprayed Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner cut 50/50 with water into the wheel well and let those sit and eat into the grime while I moved onto the engine.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/10.jpg



Engine was not to bad at all just dusty at the most so nothing hardcore here other then a Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner spray, light rinse off, a blow dry with my Chemical Guy's Blow Dryer, and then dressed it with Meguiars Hyper Dressing cut 25/75 water. Turned on the engine and let the engine warm up for about 10 minutes or so.

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/11.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/12.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/13.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/14.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/15.jpg



Now addressed the wheels with my E-Z Brush which is pretty cool cause it can be bent so that you can get it into different places. I really love the way these 2 pics with the E-Z Brush turned out!
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/16.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/17.jpg

Now this is what the rim should look like after using the brush properly.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/18.jpg

Did the rim face with a microfibre mitt solely dedicated for the rims, which I prefer cause on those stubborn spots I can really apply some hard pressure.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/19.jpg



Finally after all of that on to the washing. Chemical Guys Citrus Wash + Gloss was the car soap cut to strip anything that may have been on the car's surface(wax), I forget the ratio to be honest.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/20.jpg

Two Bucket Method. One soapy water the other just water for rinsing so you don't contaminate the soapy water with dirt.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/21.jpg

Started rinsing off the car to wash off as much as I could of any loose debris. Bottom line the less dirt on your car when you start washing means that there will be less dirt that may get potentially dragged on the paint causing swirls.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/22.jpg

Sheepskin wash mitt this time starting with the roof.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/23.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/24.jpg

After each panel or even half a panel you should be rinsing off your mitt in the water only bucket. The reason you do this is because you do not want to be using one bucket and dragging that same dirt filled water all over the paint causing swirls. Common sense and pretty simple no, but surprisingly people don't do it. Also you may have to rinse along as you go cause this will make washing a little longer.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/25.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/26.jpg

Also forgive me for not being able to explain this next part it is just habit now already that I learnt years ago but hopefully someone can cover for me. All panels facing the sky should be done back and forth like in this pic hopefully you can see the pattern of the suds.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/27.jpg

And all side panels should be up and down. The bottom half should be saved for last as usually those sections are the dirtiest.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/28.jpg



Did the final rinse down and dried the car using a waffle weave towel. These towels are far superior to a chamois because of a couple things, they absorb water alot faster, they have these pockets which dirt or dust blown on the car can escape into and not be dragged on the paint, and I could go on and on but you get the point if you have or get one I am sure you can find more things to appreciate about them.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/29.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/30.jpg



Finally finished. Some may think that shines nicely but I am not finished with this car yet.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/31.jpg



Pulled it into my garage and got ready to clay with Riccardo Clay yellow.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/32.jpg

My last bar.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/33.jpg

Now if your planning on claying your own car without any polishing involved and it is not a mild clay like Sonus Green Clay, you are gonna get clay bar marring but general proper clay bar procedure is to avoid the cold. What you can do is have something with high lubricity like Megiuars Last Touch cut 50/50 with warm water to help you out but sometimes it just can't be avoided.

Oh yeah and the reason you clay is because even though you have washed your car there are still tiny debris that get embedded into your clearcoat called surface contaminants that only a clay bar can sheer out. If after you wash your car and run your hand along the paint you will notice that it still feels rough(even new cars that get rail dust from being transported by train) but after a good clay bar only a baby's skin feels more smooth then your paint, honestly.

Started claying and it was not bad at all as expected but as usual some lower parts on the door were a little bad and the whole back end had quite a bit.

Claying the hood.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/34.jpg

Nothing really.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/35.jpg



After the clay barring I want to mask the car with blue painters tape to protect rubber trim from being burnt. I like using two kinds of width.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/36.jpg

It's 3M tape and the product number is 2090 which is medium adhesion, nothing to strong.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/37.jpg

Here are some pics of the masking.

Put the thick tape over the edge of the clear bra.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/38.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/39.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/40.jpg

[Wes_R]

And now time to measure the paint with a paint thickness gauge for any possible low spots and also to report to the owner if any panels have been repainted(I never thought anything would be repainted here though but just to look out for low spots).
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/41.jpg

Measured the paint in microns which is a thousandth of a millimeter or .001 of a mm. Generally in my experience OEM is 100 to 130 microns.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/42.jpg

Measurements were looking healthy and very consistent around 140 more or less with maybe only 2 or 3 panels showing 130 or 150.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/43.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/44.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/45.jpg

Even though I am only showing one measurement per panel what I am actually doing per panel is doing at least 10 more or less measurements. It's kind of weird but I kind of imagine the paint as a plain and imagine the different grooves of where it is high and low kind of like a field with hills.



Anyway with all the prep work finally out of the way we can now begin polishing. Imagine and no disrespect to anyone but if you go to a hack shop they just wash your car and get straight into polishing, it's kind of scary especially if you prize your car and have to leave it in their hands what is happening to your baby.

So back to things here is what I was pretty much dealing with under 500 watt halogen lighting.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/46.jpg

I went straight into it with Menzerna Super Intensive Polish, a 6.5 orange Lake Country Pad, the Meguiars Solo Backing Plate, and the Makita Rotary.

I used the Zenith Point Technique where 5 beads the size of a skittle were spread out at 600rpm, broken down at 1200rpm, then polished until clear at around 1700rpm. Then back down the scale from 1700rpm to 1500rpm, and then refined at around 1100rpm over a 12 x 18 area.

Here are some before and afters.

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/47.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/48.jpg

A 50/50 shot with the right side polished and the left side not.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/49.jpg

A shot of me polishing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/50.jpg

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/51.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/52.jpg

Another 50/50
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/53.jpg

Before(this one was bad)
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/54.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/55.jpg

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/56.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/57.jpg

Before(this one was pretty bad to)
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/58.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/59.jpg

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/60.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/61.jpg



So after the cutting stage I also polished the tail lights as they had swirls on them as well but with a forced rotation dual action polisher(the new Flex 3401). Here are some before and afters.

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/62.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/63.jpg

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/64.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/65.jpg



Now after all that was said and done the hard part comes. Chasing all what is called rds or rids random deep scratches or random isolated deep scratches by wetsanding. Now just a 2 step polish will get the paint in the 95% range more or less perfected(which is in my opinion perfectly fine for a daily driver) but deeper stuff will be left behind. How deep the scratches are varies some you can feel with your nail others you can't but with spot wetsanding you can either get them out completely or at the least round off the edges so that the sunlight is dispersed in a way to not make them so noticeable or not noticeable at all even though they may be there.

Now excuse me please because 1 this was very labour intensive and 2 my photography skills are not on a level to capture these fine scratches.

The process was to wetsand with either 2000 or 2500 grit then cross hatch sand with 3000 grit. Basically when you sand with either 2000 or 2500 grit you sand in the motion vertically then go back over with 3000 and go horizontally to cross hatch making polishing out the wetsanding marks easier.

Here is a rid.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/66.jpg

Wetsanding it out.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/67.jpg

And gone.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/68.jpg

Here are some during shots. I honestly just wanted to get it done and spent a good couple hours going through this process.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/69.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/70.jpg



Now with that tedious stage done I could finally jewel the paint, but first a couple things.

Unmask
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/71.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/72.jpg

Dust out the crevices.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/73.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/74.jpg

And finally an alcohol wipe down. The reason you do this is because the polishes contain oils that can fill very very light scratches so the wipe down allows you to properly check your work.

So alcohol cut 50/50 with water wiped on with a plush microfibre cloth, and a 3M Sun Gun were used to check my work.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/75.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/76.jpg

The Sun Gun for those that don't know omits they same spectrum light as the sun and I believe is 99.3% similar. There are some reflections in the paint that may seem like something but are not.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/77.jpg



Finally the last stage of polishing which is the jeweling or burnishing stage which is a very light cutting polish and light cutting pad which burnish the paint to a very high gloss(they don't do this at the factory).

Tools for this job were my new Flex 3401 which I have been dying to use and this is the first time, Menzerna P085RD, and a white Lake Country pad.

A during shot.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/78.jpg

Some amazing reflection shots!

Look at the gloss and there isn't even a wax on yet.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/79.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/80.jpg

[Wes_R]

After spending a couple hours refining the paint another alcohol wipe down was done not only to inspect for defects but to also create a clean surface for the wax to bond to.



Wax of the day was Swissvax Concorso. For dark colors a carnuba based wax gives on amazing glow but for light colored cars I suggest a sealant like Zaino Z2 or Werkstatt.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/81.jpg

Your supposed to apply it by hand because it is heat activated but I just warm my applicator every panel(this stuff is not cheap you know).
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/82.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/83.jpg



I let the wax cure for about an hour or so, so in the mean time I did other things like polish the mufflers.

I did that with Meguiars Super Degreaser and 0000 steel wool to clean it up, then polished with Meguiars NXT All Metal polish. Here are some before and afters.

Before
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/84.jpg

After
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/85.jpg

Here is a closer look of the driver's side.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/86.jpg

And the passenger's side.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/87.jpg

I also put Poor Boy's Wheel Sealant on the rims to protect against brake dust and also on the newly polished mufflers.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/89.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/90.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/88.jpg

No pics but I applied Blackfire Long Lasting Tyre Gel to the tires.



After everything I finally wiped off the wax, sealant, and cleaned the windows.

And now ladies and gentlemen.... the eye candy.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/91.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/92.jpg

It was cloudy which was great and not so great cause the sun was playing hide seek but I was getting some beautiful cloud reflections.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/93.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/94.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/95.jpg

Tree reflection shot.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/96.jpg

This pic is so cool!
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/97.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/98.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/99.jpg

My signature reflection shot.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/100.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/101.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/102.jpg

Another tree shot.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/103.jpg

Gloss, clarity, shine, everything looking perfect.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/104.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/105.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/106.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/107.jpg

Sun came out for a bit so I raced around to get shots of the sun on the paint to show no swirls.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/108.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/109.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/110.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/111.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/112.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/113.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/114.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/115.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/116.jpg

And finally my favorite shot.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/117.jpg



I also got to go for a little cruise around my block.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/118.jpg

Got to feel some g-force go through my body and experience the torque and braking power.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/119.jpg

Dropped back home and there goes a shiny black GT-R.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WesRobles1/giladsgtr/120.jpg



Thank you very much to the owner for allowing to me to spend time with this awesome machine.

Hope you guys enjoyed the write up and any comments good, bad, or ugly are welcome.

Cheers!
Wes

[distr0]

very impressive, thanks for sharing

[dead_cactus]

Awesome work. What do you usually charge for something like this?

[Wes_R]

The job on the GT-R was very expensive, but I offer different levels of detailing that are more realistic for daily drivers and range in price from $200-$400 all depending on condition of the car, size, and your desired outcome.

[Azi]

just out of curiosity, how expensive is expensive?

[Wes_R]

Let's put it this way I charged $40/hr and definitely spent more then 1 day on it.

No disrespect just would prefer to keep it private in respect to the customer, lol he told his wife he was just spending $300 on it.

[Nutella]

Amazing work and results. cant believe how much difference there is between the amateurs and the pros in detailing.

That is one sick ass car, I had the priv. of riding shotgun in a GT-R earlier this year. best ride of my life hands down. and my fav car of all time, I honestly dont think anything will beat it for me, its got everything.

[sumrandomguy]

excellent work Wes. i've seen many on the road, but not one as clean and sharp as this one for sure.
its a really good feeling inside when you complete a full detail and the results are so awesome. it would certainly be my dream one day to detail such a beautiful car...but for now, i'll stick to making Proteges looking sharp :p

[Skanky]

wow that is incredible...nice work.

i don't know how you have the patience for all that.
i just take my car to the carwash and that's it...:lol:

you must freak if were to rain later that day...:(

[Guyana00]

If anyone want a good detailer I know of someone in Oshawa, I can refer you to him and his thread. He is from my other toronto forum which is why I'm referring you to him, in case I shouldn't be "soliciting" other forums.

Anyways, he is really good and his prices range from $50 to $250. $250 being the max I would think that would include everything and for something really dirty or bad shape. (paint, carpets, seats, trunk, etc.)

He's good at removing swirls as well and he steam cleans the carpets, vents, everything. Down To The Last Detail is what he goes by....and he does get every detail...