View Full Version : Turbo'd ATX
midnitehour
September 5th, 2008, 02:35 AM
*******I'm updating every thing i have learned from doing this into one simple post rather than multiple pages.
Read post 323 (coincidence) for a condensed version.
*****************************************************************************************
So i'm starting a build thread for myself and any others that would take interest in going down this route.
Yes Atx sucks, Yes I should sell if, Yes this is not doing a turbo justice, Yes I should buy a manual. But I can't. insurance purposes, my car now is IMO modded to far really to go back to stock.
So enough with the ney sayers, in with those with good advise.
So far my build details.
Haves
To save my feeble transmission:
Hayden 1677 Plus transmission cooler
Lentech Street Terminator Valve body
The power:
MSP callaway Exhaust Manifold
MSP stock gt25 turbo
MSP callaway S-pipe
Stock J-pipe
The Brains
Split Second AFC V1
The Needs
The Pipes.
Priciscion Engineering Intercooler 26.75L x 6.20H x 3.50D 350-hp:lol: 2.50" Inlet/Outlet.
Still in the air, possibly MAM FMIC pipes, confused about clocking the stock turbo.
Intake piping, since i can't zip tie the filter to the turbo. (filter less?)
The unknown.
BOV, this will depend on the pipes. not sure really where to start.
Radiator and fans, Edwin has some good input, I'll likely go with the msp rad and smic.
I'm now at the point of finding all of the MSP water and oil lines.
I've gotten feedback that OEM via dealer may be excessive $$ but yet to check (dwmpartsguy wanna chime in?)
Tee, Oil Feed Adapter 00-88-C74
Adapter, AN 0000-88-C34
Pipe, water feed assembly 0000-88-C49
Bolt, Banjo 14mm X 1.5mm 0000-88-C52
Pipe, Water Return Assembly 0000-88-C52
Water Return Elbow 0000-88-C54
Assorted clamps.
Mazdaspeed trunk badge 0000-88-C13:p
Possibly an oil pan as well
Install
I plan on doing all of the labor my self via several how-to manuals
Valve body install
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666039&highlight=lentech
Turbo install instructions Via
Mazdamotorsports.com
Additional things I'd look to do shortly after.
Transmission Temp Guage
Wideband and AFR Guage
boost guage
Water spray over trany cooler and intercooler
And Finally the question I've read most while researching.
"What is my goal?"
160HP which is 70 more than what this car is putting down. Go faster than Myk.
Will it be tracked atx/drag?
maybe / no
Daily driver?
Yes.
That's all I've got, If there's anything that you guys know that I'm missing or info i could use, please chime in.
Darkside Here I Come!
Information that could be usable for the future
Stock turbo : Garrett t25
oil lines: AN4 oil feed
Automatic transmission fluid: Mercron V or full synthetic. Manual says 7.2L But it definetly didn't take that much, took about 4 -5L. even with full drain. only thing i could think of is that there is fluid sitting in the tranny that will not drain out short of pulling the entire tranny out.
stock auto tranny cooler piping is 3/8" ID.
oil filter sandwich size is M20 X 1.5
egr valve nut and bolt is M20 x 1.5
TheMAN
September 5th, 2008, 08:30 AM
you'd also want to upgrade the radiator... there's 3 choices and neither are exactly cheap nor easy:
1) corksport radiator.. $300 and bolts right in, but you'll lose the tranny cooler and so you MUST have the aftermarket one already... allows you to reuse your existing fans and brackets... no way to install SMIC as it is full width like what you have now
2) JDM diesel automatic radiator... $300 (from me) and to make it work you'll need MSP radiator brackets, MSP fans (or whatever aftermarket), and MSP upper radiator hose... has integrated tranny cooler.... whole design is heavy duty for automatics... a "bolt on" for MSPs... see http://www.imazda.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13575
no way to install SMIC as it is full width like what you have now
with either option, you're looking at spending money to make your cooling system reliable... the diesel radiator lets you use the better MSP fans if you choose to do a clean "bolt on" install route... the automatic fans you already have now aren't too bad compared to the manual ones, but they just don't flow as good as the MSP ones... I know nothing about the quality and fitment of the corksport radiator but I can tell you that the diesel shit fits and works very good
3) MSP (turbo diesel) radiator setup... there is no automatic radiator available as the turbo diesels were only sold in europe, so you MUST have an aftermarket tranny cooler... the rest is "simple", just get MSP brackets, upgraded or stock SMIC, SMIC pipes, and fans
the SMIC setup is responsive and works well with low boost... it does not have as much pressure loss as with an FMIC making smoother power delivery off/on boost which is more auto tranny friendly... with an upgraded SMIC, it will not heat soak terribly unless unless you hauled ass in 40+ degree weather then hit stop and go traffic... it won't run "great" in that hot weather (realistically, not a lot of setups run well in that kind of weather), but it won't run like shit either like the stock SMIC setup... so it's not a bad setup to go to if you plan on running stock boost
Aitch
September 5th, 2008, 08:34 AM
Yes Atx sucks, Yes I should sell if, Yes this is not doing a turbo justice, Yes I should buy a manual. But I can't. insurance purposes, my car now is IMO modded to far really to go back to stock.
So enough with the ney sayers, in with those with good advise.
No naysayers here. You've listed great reasons why you should stick with the auto. I don't know much about dealing with the auto trans but with care they can last turbo'd.
The Brains
Split Second AFC V1
last I had heard, I'm not sure this had been made to work well with the Protege ECU. For your power levels you might be better with an MSP ECU (although I don't know if they work with auto) or a simple fuel pressure regulator setup. I was only boosting aroudn 5psi and it worked well for me.
BOV, this will depend on the pipes. not sure really where to start.
If you're using a BOV consider using the MAF as a "blow-through" system. I.E. the MAF sits between the turbo (after the intercooler) and the throttle body. Putting the MAF before the turbo and using a BOV will get you really rich between shifts - I would guess this could really bog with the auto trans.
Additional things I'd look to do shortly after.
Transmission Temp Guage
Wideband and AFR Guage
boost guage
Water spray over trany cooler and intercooler
For your power levels you can get guages after you're up and running, but at LEAST get the boost guage so you can tell if you're leaking boost somewhere, or if you're overboosting. My minimum suggestion would be boost, narrowband A/F (to make sure you're going 'rich' under acceleration) and an oil pressure gauge (in case you have an oil line failure).
And Finally the question I've read most while researching.
"What is my goal?"
160HP which is 70 more than what this car is putting down. Go faster than Myk.
LOL!!
cruisinblackp5
September 5th, 2008, 09:01 AM
Id go with a bypass rather than a BOV, you will never here it and well theres no real need on an auto like there is for the thanksgiving 5spds
midnitehour
September 5th, 2008, 09:45 AM
Id go with a bypass rather than a BOV, you will never here it and well theres no real need on an auto like there is for the thanksgiving 5spds
Damn and I was looking forward to the bird.
cruisinblackp5
September 5th, 2008, 09:48 AM
Well if you arent of the gas between shifts, your foot will keep the throtle blade open and no turkey, no geese, no bird for you regardless of what set up you do. If you want you can get a BOV and make teh sound when you want but it seems damaging to go full throttle then off then back on etc
midnitehour
September 5th, 2008, 09:54 AM
you'd also want to upgrade the radiator...
I've been looking for a msp radiator to swap with the sedan radiator, but haven't come across one.
I should be PM'ing you soon about the diesel radiator though as i have sourced the stock msp intercooler and pipes.
I have an aftermarket tranny cooler, so the cork sport could also be an option.
perhaps forget the fmic idea and stick with smic? 7psi is max that this tranny could see.
solo.
September 5th, 2008, 10:26 AM
You don't want the stock interwarmer.:p
Are any of your motor mounts changed yet?
solo.
September 5th, 2008, 10:27 AM
And you need a MSP intake or a CAI/SRI.
midnitehour
September 5th, 2008, 10:48 AM
And you need a MSP intake or a CAI/SRI.
can 't i just zip tie the filter to the turbo?
The intake will hopefully be part of the piping i purchase.
CrazyCaker
September 5th, 2008, 11:00 AM
can 't i just zip tie the filter to the turbo?
zip tie? lol A clamp would probably be a better idea. :p
midnitehour
September 5th, 2008, 12:06 PM
Edited first post with haves and needs.
hopefully this install isn't one of those "break" mods.
Azi
September 5th, 2008, 12:23 PM
last I had heard, I'm not sure this had been made to work well with the Protege ECU. For your power levels you might be better with an MSP ECU (although I don't know if they work with auto) or a simple fuel pressure regulator setup. I was only boosting aroudn 5psi and it worked well for me.
he cant use the MSP ECU cause of the ATx. I think you should go w/ a RRFPR and a 02 clamp. I dunno if the SSAFC will work, cause when the ECU sees boost (via 02 sensors), i think its going to fault out.
CrazyCaker
September 5th, 2008, 12:29 PM
I think you should go w/ a RRFPR and a 02 clamp.
I'd suggest this route as well, and it'll work decently with only 7psi.
midnitehour
September 5th, 2008, 02:11 PM
More on this o2 clamp and rrfp please
cruisinblackp5
September 5th, 2008, 02:14 PM
Vortech makes pretty basic ones for a FPR basic set it and forget it ish, Cartech makes adecent adjustable one with screws. I find the knock off Vortech ones leak often, tis maybe just me but I had two seperate problems from teh main seal and gave up. forget even changing the ratio, these were like that from new. I do believe Cartech makes the ones BEGI uses for their kits. Entirely different designs and different bling factors also diffeent price points
Aitch
September 5th, 2008, 02:15 PM
More on this o2 clamp and rrfp please
I'll fill you in when I drop off the intercooler!
Azi
September 5th, 2008, 02:24 PM
Vortech makes pretty basic ones for a FPR basic set it and forget it ish, Cartech makes adecent adjustable one with screws. I find the knock off Vortech ones leak often, tis maybe just me but I had two seperate problems from teh main seal and gave up. forget even changing the ratio, these were like that from new. I do believe Cartech makes the ones BEGI uses for their kits. Entirely different designs and different bling factors also diffeent price points
the begi is sooo much better than the vortech. w/ the begi, you can adjust btwn a base fuel pressure, and the amoutn in boost.
the vortech just cant tell when your in or out of boost. also, i think the begi is a knob adjustment, and the vortech is disks.
cruisinblackp5
September 5th, 2008, 02:27 PM
Vortech is sufficient, trust me on that one, I have done it with this car, tranny etc same boost levels and mileage was still fine and AF ratios stayed the same out of boost
FunkRider
September 5th, 2008, 06:03 PM
Flyin Miata o2 Voltage clamp.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123718511
Roughly how it works http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
midnitehour
September 6th, 2008, 11:17 PM
and links to the ss afc v1 not working?
Azi
September 7th, 2008, 12:18 AM
as for your BOV question, if you move the MAF to just before the TB, then i think you can run any BOV that sounds best to you. but if you keep the MAF right after the filter, then a BPV or BOV in full recirc would be best.
midnitehour
September 8th, 2008, 11:39 AM
Just got back from the dealer and ***k me!!!
Tee, Oil Feed Adapter 00-88-C74 $53
Adapter, AN 0000-88-C34 $17
Pipe, water feed assembly 0000-88-C49 $119
Bolt, Banjo 14mm X 1.5mm 0000-88-C27 $??
Pipe, Water Return Assembly 0000-88-C52 $101
Water Return Elbow 0000-88-C54 $88
any one got any of these laying around?
cruisinblackp5
September 8th, 2008, 11:50 AM
make em or have em made, should be a great deal cheaper
midnitehour
September 8th, 2008, 11:57 AM
^ from/by who?
cruisinblackp5
September 8th, 2008, 11:58 AM
theres a hundred and one places that can make you braided lines and sell fittings. If you want to come to Vaughan I know afew spots around my work that make some for us when we dont hav eth right sized dies
HighmileP5
September 8th, 2008, 01:01 PM
I can make braided lines. I run a hose and fittings shop. Send me a pm if you are interested.
CrazyCaker
September 8th, 2008, 01:40 PM
I can make braided lines. I run a hose and fittings shop. Send me a pm if you are interested.
Why not post your info? I'm sure there's a few guys here who could use your services.
angeloTNT
September 8th, 2008, 07:26 PM
^^+1
HighmileP5
September 8th, 2008, 08:42 PM
its in the works
midnitehour
September 8th, 2008, 08:58 PM
soo i got some clarity on the ss afc.
the tuning will not work with closed loop (not w.o.t wide open throttle) but will work under open loop (w.o.t)
The afc has an output to the o2 sensor that will trick the ecu to think it's in open loop at all times there for it can be tuned at all rpm points.
I won't be able to get the turbo kit in by the time the picnic rolls around, due to oil lines and water lines but hopefully will be able to the afc and the valve bodies in.
here is the thread in the us forum
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123693694
and highmile you have a pm
midnitehour
September 8th, 2008, 09:18 PM
does anyone local sell IC piping and couplers?
Aitch
September 8th, 2008, 09:33 PM
I believe Vibrant does....
midnitehour
September 8th, 2008, 09:35 PM
I believe Vibrant does....
does it have a store front?
Aitch
September 8th, 2008, 09:44 PM
They have the head office/warehouse (http://www.vibrantperformance.com/contact.php?osCsid=70692988d0ef0121b76892540229658a) but it's not a "storefront". Best to browse their catalog and then if you wanted to go with their stuff, contact them about picking things up directly and if they can offer you any better deals.
Aitch
September 8th, 2008, 09:45 PM
soo i got some clarity on the ss afc.
the tuning will not work with closed loop (not w.o.t wide open throttle) but will work under open loop (w.o.t)
The afc has an output to the o2 sensor that will trick the ecu to think it's in open loop at all times there for it can be tuned at all rpm points.
here is the thread in the us forum
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123693694
For anyone who didn't want to dig through that thread there is some good info in there (as you summarized, Jeff)
ok, since we have a special verison of the splitsecond afc(psc1-020), it includes 02 sensor hook up. as of my understanding, the 02 sensor hook up is for the output b mode feature that is included in the software that comes with the afc.
you have control of output b mode. when you want output b to turn "on", it sends a signal to the o2 sensors, and it tells the car to go into open loop. it does not take complete control but it does a very good job switching to open loop.
so my original problem was i could not control open and closed switching back and forth each other, and i was only able to tune open loop because the pcm level to tune closed loop position is to strong.
so basically my map starts at -3 hg. i set output b mode to over pressure, and i set the pressure to -2.99. so in other words, everytime my car goes under -2.99 hg, my car goes into open loop. (you can also choose over rpm, or both, but i thought it was best to set it to over pressure).
with this setting, everytime i stomp on the gas pedal my car goes into open loop. since my hole rpm range is in open loop, i am able to gradually lean out the ratios between 12.5 to 13.5 afr all the way up to redline.
if you look at the attachment i made earlier and look at my map it will make much more sense.
basically it is the same thing as the superstock map, but in the NA cells and settings.
i hope i explained my self well. and this actually works very well! ken if you tried it, i think you would be impressed!
cruisinblackp5
September 8th, 2008, 11:11 PM
btw, talk to mosi for vibrant stuff
midnitehour
September 8th, 2008, 11:36 PM
does anyone know the specs of the water return line, such as the ID of all three sides?
also what kind of fittings does the turbo take for oil and water?
midnitehour
September 9th, 2008, 12:22 AM
what limits the oil pressure in the oil line going to the turbo?
is it limited when coming off the oil pressure sender?
TheMAN
September 9th, 2008, 02:21 AM
for the water return elbow, forget about trying to make your own... it's a tight space there and you'll end up wasting time/money/energy in making your own custom one... just get a brand new one from the dealer and be done with it
have you looked on the US boards for any of the other parts you need?
you may want to try the MPI tuner for your engine management needs... I have friends here in dallas that runs them and their cars have been pretty reliable... especially on this one P5 that runs on its stock ECU too
I also recommend the J&S safeguard knock controller... I know I can sleep well at night with that installed in my car!
the stock turbo has its own oil restricter built right into where the feed line goes in, so no need for any restricter unless you decide to run an aftermarket turbo
midnitehour
September 9th, 2008, 07:48 AM
for the water return elbow, forget about trying to make your own... it's a tight space there and you'll end up wasting time/money/energy in making your own custom one... just get a brand new one from the dealer and be done with it
have you looked on the US boards for any of the other parts you need?
you may want to try the MPI tuner for your engine management needs... I have friends here in dallas that runs them and their cars have been pretty reliable... especially on this one P5 that runs on its stock ECU too
I also recommend the J&S safeguard knock controller... I know I can sleep well at night with that installed in my car!
the stock turbo has its own oil restricter built right into where the feed line goes in, so no need for any restricter unless you decide to run an aftermarket turbo
i've been hounding the US boards, but everyone seems to be in need of these lines, since they're soo expensive from the dealer. the elbow itself is over a 100 dollars here, just looking for other alternatives,
I'm going to go with ss since it's already bought and paid for, should it not work then i'll explore the rrfpr
Mike_Moss
September 9th, 2008, 09:36 AM
Jeff, we carry the full Vibrant line. I can bring a catalogue to the meet if you'd like. Just holla.
Azi
September 9th, 2008, 03:08 PM
i've been hounding the US boards, but everyone seems to be in need of these lines, since they're soo expensive from the dealer. the elbow itself is over a 100 dollars here, just looking for other alternatives,
I'm going to go with ss since it's already bought and paid for, should it not work then i'll explore the rrfpr
for that fitting, since its a small part, i wonder how much onlinemazdaparts will ship it to you for...cause its liek $59 from him.
TheMAN
September 9th, 2008, 08:47 PM
i've been hounding the US boards, but everyone seems to be in need of these lines, since they're soo expensive from the dealer. the elbow itself is over a 100 dollars here, just looking for other alternatives,
I'm going to go with ss since it's already bought and paid for, should it not work then i'll explore the rrfpr
and you've been to DWM for the prices?
it seems to me a lot of MSP shit are a lot more expensive in canada than the US... if you're buying a bunch of shit, it might make sense to just take a "short vacation" and drive across the border, go to a dealer and prepay overnight order all the shit, spend a couple of days there just to be able to get your duty free allowance, and drive back with the shit
midnitehour
September 9th, 2008, 08:52 PM
went to mississauga mazda,
i don't think driving down to buffalo would justify costs.
TheMAN
September 9th, 2008, 09:30 PM
I think DWM gives the best prices in town
dead_cactus
September 10th, 2008, 12:28 AM
Mississauga Mazda offers the same discount on parts if not better. I know I get some crazy prices on parts when I go there.
HighmileP5
September 10th, 2008, 10:30 AM
Do these look like any of the fittings you might need for the turbo?
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapt_fit/turbo.shtml
midnitehour
September 10th, 2008, 12:16 PM
Do these look like any of the fittings you might need for the turbo?
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapt_fit/turbo.shtml
I'll have to check once the turbo gets to my door, either way it'll be a while before it goes in, as none of my parts have arrived yet.
The second they do I'll be sending your a PM for some lines.
All i need is the water pipes and fittings.
Mike_Moss
September 10th, 2008, 12:24 PM
As I said to you in PM, we carry Russell. Just a matter of determining what you need.
midnitehour
September 11th, 2008, 04:10 PM
I got my split second AFC today! and a wide band.
Gonna see what a N/A tune feels like. :D
perhaps something for the autotragic thread.
Mike_Moss
September 12th, 2008, 10:36 AM
Nice! Jeff, you should start a sort of work log in the Club Projects section! :)
angeloTNT
September 15th, 2008, 07:12 AM
might as well move this to there. wheel hop w/ ATX ftw.
midnitehour
September 15th, 2008, 09:21 PM
alright thread in the club projects section.. as this is happening.
I got Zorro muffler to weld in a bung for the Wide band Sensor.
pony tail guy worked on my car, his name is Phil, I asked him to weld the bung straight up just before where the axel is and he said it wasn't possible to do so without dropping the whole exhaust, and to drop the exhaust it would be extra $$s.
So I asked him to weld it as vertical as possible without dropping it,
So he blows a massive hole on the top side of the exhaust trying to weld the top without dropping the mid pipe.
After showing him how to remove the mid-pipe without removing the whole cat back section he welding the bung on straight up, all for $30!:D
Car runs very lean when under 3-4k, and very rich at WOT, but everyone knows that.
Split second went In really easily 6-8 wires, all color coded, tapped the vac line off the cruise control line that comes off the manifold. and ran that line through the AC gromet.
I'm running a slightly modified version of a N/A tune done by jamesk on the us board,
His tune on my car gave me super lean conditions when I pegged it from stop, and a bit to rich when gunning it at Hwy speeds with OD off.
When pegging it from stop I got a 17 AFR, and the car really hesistated / almost stalled.
and while cruising I got 10 AFR.
so i made it richer from 500 rpm to 2000rpm and then started leaning out,
also i made it richer from 3000 rpm on the parts where the vaccum pressure was in -19.3 hg to -10.2 hg as stock had it running pretty lean (high 15s to 16) now it runs at 14.7, although I see no gains in this area.
Only problems now is, at start up the car hesistates really badly, dunno wtf it's doing cus according to the WB the afrs are areound 16, and the SS has it dumping extra fuel. After initial warm up period, it's fine.
Tranny cooler is sitting in the garage, as is the turbo, exhaust mani, s-pipe, intercooler, oil temp guage, trans temp guage, boost guage, and Lentech street terminator valve body.
In the mail is, oil feed and IC piping
on the to get list are
BOV recommendations or use the stock BPV? who wants to weld on a flange?
oil return lines, going to look for a fat one.
hardware to tap into the oil pan, MOSI can you PM me with price and details.
oil cooler plate to run oil cooler lines. MOSI can you PM me with price and details
and coolant lines, which will probably be rubber stuff from auto source.
and vac hoses.
midnitehour
September 15th, 2008, 09:23 PM
might as well move this to there. wheel hop w/ ATX ftw.
LOL on that note, after running the "tuned map" i experienced "wheel hop" for the first time in my car, my tire and wheel combo each weigh just shy of 50lbs each..
so that would be my proof that the tune adds power.
evil_y2k_twin
September 16th, 2008, 04:29 AM
hmmm...already tempting to put a ss afc on my car..lol
midnitehour
September 16th, 2008, 01:09 PM
I would say do it, I got more power from this than any of my air moving mods i/h/e
Had I known that, it would've been the first mod. And its upgradeable when you feel like going pssh
hmmm...already tempting to put a ss afc on my car..lol
prot3g3
September 16th, 2008, 08:40 PM
i have thought about buying the SS AFC, but i never really read into it, but not that your saying it smoothes out the power band and your getting wheel hop with your cinderblocks, then i might look into it more!
sounds like your making good process jeff, hope to see this thing running soon. good luck dude!
evil_y2k_twin
September 16th, 2008, 09:51 PM
I would say do it, I got more power from this than any of my air moving mods i/h/e
Had I known that, it would've been the first mod. And its upgradeable when you feel like going pssh
It would be quite interesting on the 1.6. My plan wasto go turbo later on anyway.
991.8l
September 17th, 2008, 07:43 AM
I would say do it, I got more power from this than any of my air moving mods i/h/e
Had I known that, it would've been the first mod. And its upgradeable when you feel like going pssh
Can you re-cap the negative impacts for this upgrade... you said you had heavy hesitation when the car was cold?
cruisinblackp5
September 17th, 2008, 07:46 AM
I was preaching the benefits of this for years, Im glad its finally come back around. Definitely best to do it the way you are doing, get your base, upgrade that, then when its boost time you are familiar with how to use it and will have a much easier time trouble shooting. I wouldnt doubt that you will pick up a few ponies and some mpg as well.
FunkRider
September 18th, 2008, 05:34 PM
alright thread in the club projects section.. as this is happening.
I got Zorro muffler to weld in a bung for the Wide band Sensor.
pony tail guy worked on my car, his name is Phil, I asked him to weld the bung straight up just before where the axel is and he said it wasn't possible to do so without dropping the whole exhaust, and to drop the exhaust it would be extra $$s.
So I asked him to weld it as vertical as possible without dropping it,
So he blows a massive hole on the top side of the exhaust trying to weld the top without dropping the mid pipe.
After showing him how to remove the mid-pipe without removing the whole cat back section he welding the bung on straight up, all for $30!:D
Car runs very lean when under 3-4k, and very rich at WOT, but everyone knows that.
Split second went In really easily 6-8 wires, all color coded, tapped the vac line off the cruise control line that comes off the manifold. and ran that line through the AC gromet.
I'm running a slightly modified version of a N/A tune done by jamesk on the us board,
His tune on my car gave me super lean conditions when I pegged it from stop, and a bit to rich when gunning it at Hwy speeds with OD off.
When pegging it from stop I got a 17 AFR, and the car really hesistated / almost stalled.
and while cruising I got 10 AFR.
so i made it richer from 500 rpm to 2000rpm and then started leaning out,
also i made it richer from 3000 rpm on the parts where the vaccum pressure was in -19.3 hg to -10.2 hg as stock had it running pretty lean (high 15s to 16) now it runs at 14.7, although I see no gains in this area.
Only problems now is, at start up the car hesistates really badly, dunno wtf it's doing cus according to the WB the afrs are areound 16, and the SS has it dumping extra fuel. After initial warm up period, it's fine.
Tranny cooler is sitting in the garage, as is the turbo, exhaust mani, s-pipe, intercooler, oil temp guage, trans temp guage, boost guage, and Lentech street terminator valve body.
In the mail is, oil feed and IC piping
on the to get list are
BOV recommendations or use the stock BPV? who wants to weld on a flange?
oil return lines, going to look for a fat one.
hardware to tap into the oil pan, MOSI can you PM me with price and details.
oil cooler plate to run oil cooler lines. MOSI can you PM me with price and details
and coolant lines, which will probably be rubber stuff from auto source.
and vac hoses.
Load maps for the same car with a manual vs an automatic are going to be VERY different. On a car like the protege it is likely the automatic map has a better stock tune to improve fuel economy and performance.
midnitehour
September 18th, 2008, 10:56 PM
I was preaching the benefits of this for years, Im glad its finally come back around. Definitely best to do it the way you are doing, get your base, upgrade that, then when its boost time you are familiar with how to use it and will have a much easier time trouble shooting. I wouldnt doubt that you will pick up a few ponies and some mpg as well.
i don't know about mpg as i'm liking the WOT feeling a bit too much, but i'm sure it'll wear down, just in time for the turbo.
the Stock tune is very lean, when not in WOT, sucks cus the car automatically downshifts whenever i try to accelerate, it won't stay in 4th and chug along, I wonder if there's anyway to lock it in 4th, I'll have to spend some phone time with lentech.
tomorrow the valve body will be going in as well as the trans cooler., gonna run no name synthetic atf fluid till the turbo goes in, then i'll flush and fill with AMSoil when it comes in.
On a appearance note,
the p5 bumper with moulded autoexe lip went on, but as with every one those stupid clips under the headlights are a problem and one broke any one know if i can get them from the dealer and how much they cost?
and since I don't have any grilles, my car looks redicilous, so today i ordered grilles from Kenny and hopefully i got the right ones, cus they're not from a P5
they're from
http://www.thearticlewriter.com/images/2007-Mazda-CX7.JPG
Yup, the bottom grille from the cx-7
I like it cus it's not the regular cross hatched design, hopefully it'll look good, I'll be dremeling out the shape of the bottom and top grills and possibly the fogs as well, I think it'll look hawt!
still in search of fogs though, anyone got some?
midnitehour
September 20th, 2008, 02:02 PM
So the valve body went in hopefully i'll have some pictures up by tomorrow
Holy crap does it shift fast, almost jerky fast, and I changed it just in time too as the atf fluid was pretty nasty, smelled like camel piss
Tranny cooler also went in.
Performance definitely went up thanks to the Lentech
00bluees
September 20th, 2008, 06:25 PM
..... smelled like camel piss.....
you know that for a fact?? :confused:
prot3g3
September 20th, 2008, 06:31 PM
great to see you making progress jeff, keep it up man
Mike_Moss
September 21st, 2008, 04:06 PM
Tranny fluid always smells bad...really bad. :(
Can't wait to see your work! :)
midnitehour
September 21st, 2008, 04:36 PM
you know that for a fact?? :confused:
yes actually:confused:
superdave
September 21st, 2008, 05:19 PM
Tranny fluid always smells bad...really bad. :(
Can't wait to see your work! :)
Mike has lots of experience with trannies and their fluids. :puke:
00bluees
September 21st, 2008, 09:35 PM
yes actually:confused:
nasty.
keep up with the good progress. i look forward to seeing the end result. may have missed it but when are you planning to have it finished?
midnitehour
September 21st, 2008, 11:28 PM
I'm hoping to have it done by the end of october, it'll make a nice bday present to myself in november.
midnitehour
September 23rd, 2008, 08:48 AM
some pictures
yey!
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6767.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6768.jpg
saver of my transmission the lentech valve body
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6769.jpg
with transmission cooler
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6770.jpg
going under the knife
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6771.jpg
the transmission pan that had to come off
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6773.jpg
the pan off
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6775.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6776.jpg
this is the spot where those pesky accumulators go in
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6780.jpg
P brake lever
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6781.jpg
new hawtness VS old and busted
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6783.jpg
*sigh* it's a ford
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6785.jpg
more of the P lever mechanism
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6791.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6796.jpg
this is the fluid filter in the transmission
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6799.jpg
the magnet on the pan
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6801.jpg
transmission oil cooler
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6807.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6808.jpg
all was in, in a day. about 6 hours.
evil_y2k_twin
September 23rd, 2008, 02:11 PM
Very nice work sir.
nautical_lifens
September 23rd, 2008, 06:58 PM
NICE WORK!!! looks like its coming along nice, you make it look easy lol...
Now i want a turbo :(
prot3g3
September 23rd, 2008, 07:03 PM
excellent work jeff.
also i like to add that the car looks hawt with the bumper set up!
can't wait till its done
midnitehour
September 24th, 2008, 11:29 PM
has anyone with a stock turbo setup, clocked the turbo?
I want the turbo facing for to shorten the piping, but reading online it may not be possible with the stock WG since that bolts right onto the compressor housing.
Is this true? would it be worth my time to make a bracket to relocate the WG?
negatives? positives?
midnitehour
September 24th, 2008, 11:41 PM
first post edited with some info for reference
Aitch
September 25th, 2008, 07:47 AM
has anyone with a stock turbo setup, clocked the turbo?
I want the turbo facing for to shorten the piping, but reading online it may not be possible with the stock WG since that bolts right onto the compressor housing.
Is this true? would it be worth my time to make a bracket to relocate the WG?
negatives? positives?
With the T25 I had (not the stock MSP one) I had to clock the compressor housing too so that it would fit the piping I had. You should be able to do it although it will take a bit of test fitting.
First take off the wastegate actuator, then remove the giant C-clip holding the compressor housing on. This is really tough to do with regular C-clip pliers so you may need help getting it off. Once you've got the housing clocked the way you want it, see if you can get the wastegate actuator to line up in the right place. Then you have to mark new holes for it to bolt to the compressor housing, drill those, and tap them for the bolts.
It may work, it might not fit. It did for my T25.
midnitehour
September 27th, 2008, 12:13 AM
With the T25 I had (not the stock MSP one) I had to clock the compressor housing too so that it would fit the piping I had. You should be able to do it although it will take a bit of test fitting.
First take off the wastegate actuator, then remove the giant C-clip holding the compressor housing on. This is really tough to do with regular C-clip pliers so you may need help getting it off. Once you've got the housing clocked the way you want it, see if you can get the wastegate actuator to line up in the right place. Then you have to mark new holes for it to bolt to the compressor housing, drill those, and tap them for the bolts.
It may work, it might not fit. It did for my T25.
you want me to drill and tap the compressor housing?!? no ways. if i do clock it, i'll make a adapter plate
midnitehour
September 27th, 2008, 12:15 AM
i made a video of me driving tonight, but i probably won't post it here.
i changed the tune a little more today, just trying to lean it a little more from 5k up, as it goes down to about a 11. afr. i've alread shaved off 10% of the gas signal for that rpm range, which shows how rich the car runs stock.
KJS
September 27th, 2008, 01:14 AM
i changed the tune a little more today, just trying to lean it a little more from 5k up, as it goes down to about a 11. afr. i've alread shaved off 10% of the gas signal for that rpm range, which shows how rich the car runs stock.
Really nice work on the transmission.
10% and still running 11afr at 5k? Blah. :eek:
Aitch
September 27th, 2008, 09:43 PM
you want me to drill and tap the compressor housing?!? no ways. if i do clock it, i'll make a adapter plate
Well that's just how I did it - at the time I had no extra material to make an adapter housing. The flat rear flange of the compressor housing can be easily tapped for short bolts, just make sure they don't protrude to where the compressor is - obviously that would have disastrous results.
FunkRider
September 29th, 2008, 05:41 PM
Meh, when your NA, I like to run mid to low 12's with more timing vs 13+ish which usually results in high EGT's
Brian MP5T
September 29th, 2008, 06:45 PM
http://forum.ottawamazda.ca/showthread.php?p=171#post171
midnitehour
September 29th, 2008, 08:31 PM
http://forum.ottawamazda.ca/showthread.php?p=171#post171
i had that bookmarked a while ago. unfortunately i gotta go with tapping the oil pan and not the crank support plate due to lack of tools/knowledge.
midnitehour
October 2nd, 2008, 09:14 AM
decided to get some shine on and then play around with the cam.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6948.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6952.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6944.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6950.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6959.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6962.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6958.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6954.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6956.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6957.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6967.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_6971.jpg
midnitehour
October 2nd, 2008, 09:15 AM
waiting on BOV or recirc, not sure what to pick up. and otherwise this should be going in this week or next.
Mike_Moss
October 2nd, 2008, 09:20 AM
Pretty!
cruisinblackp5
October 2nd, 2008, 09:20 AM
Recirc it man, better and legal choice. even just for sound you wont hear it between shifts as the throttle will stay open
midnitehour
October 2nd, 2008, 12:09 PM
how do guys with hard pipes attach the stock bpv?
RicecookerP5
October 2nd, 2008, 01:26 PM
wow you're going to get this in before I do mine.
solo.
October 2nd, 2008, 02:03 PM
Weld a 3/4" nipple on the hardpipe in the stock location of where it would be on the stock pipe. Or buy my Turbohoses hardpipes.:p
how do guys with hard pipes attach the stock bpv?
midnitehour
October 2nd, 2008, 02:53 PM
Weld a 3/4" nipple on the hardpipe in the stock location of where it would be on the stock pipe. Or buy my Turbohoses hardpipes.:p
too bad your hardpipes won't work for my applicaton.
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 12:13 PM
running into a streak of bad luck lately.. still deciding if the turbo should go in before winter or after.
starter motor died,
car for some reason goes super lean, like 17s, at startup, but runs fine after that.
car is pulling to the right so alignment is due.
electrical knomes are ***king shit up.
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 12:17 PM
on a positive note, I did my oil filter relocation today.
That was much harder to that than I thought.
Those monster oil lines were soo hard to run to the front of the car,
Originally I intended to run them up from the original oil filter location and then over and to the front. That had too many bends in it and just didn't work
I then ran the oil lines under the motor along side the oil pan then to the front .
the oil filter now sits just under and infront of the power steering pump.
filter is super easy to get to now.
pictures will be up soon.
CrazyCaker
November 13th, 2008, 12:20 PM
car for some reason goes super lean, like 17s, at startup, but runs fine after that.
Could be factors such as water temp or air temp. Is the car parked indoors?
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 12:21 PM
yea it's parked indoors, tell me more about these factors.
CrazyCaker
November 13th, 2008, 12:24 PM
If it's indoors, then they shouldn't make to much of a difference. My car was running lean at start up and it was due to the colder temps outside, which made my coolant temps lower. I had to factor that into my MicroTech. That's the reason I picked up the hand controller because I'm sure I'll need to make even more adjustments as it gets even colder out.
distr0
November 13th, 2008, 12:27 PM
are you running proper standalone? does it have separate warm up maps?
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 12:28 PM
nope running a piggy back, which currently has the stock maps, as in it's not interefering with the stock ecu at all.
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 12:29 PM
oil relocation pics
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8220.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8221.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8222.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8223.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8224.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8225.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8226.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8227.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8228.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_8229.jpg
CrazyCaker
November 13th, 2008, 12:38 PM
Get those lines braided!
How's the oil pressure now? I have my doubts about how good the Pro's oil pump is.
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 01:33 PM
Dunno yet still gotta put in the gauges
CrazyCaker
November 13th, 2008, 01:43 PM
Let me know once you get the pressure one in. I noticed once I installed my oil cooler my oil light (on the dash) stays on for about a second longer. I'm guessing until the oil starts flowing through the cooler. The pressure seems to be fine though still.
kz9
November 13th, 2008, 02:33 PM
That hose is wire core hydralic hose. Good for probley 3000psi. I doubt there is any thermal expansion. I run Goodyear nylon core 500psi oil hose on my cooler and no problems. My oil pressure comes up in no time, no light.
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 04:16 PM
It's actually double wire core
So what 5000 psi
dead_cactus
November 13th, 2008, 04:29 PM
Looks good.
What's the advantage of a relocation kit? Is it simply just for the ease of having the filter in a location thats easier to access?
kz9
November 13th, 2008, 04:44 PM
It's actually double wire core
So what 5000 psi
10 000+
angeloTNT
November 13th, 2008, 04:55 PM
Looks good.
What's the advantage of a relocation kit? Is it simply just for the ease of having the filter in a location thats easier to access?
pretty much and if your have any guages like oil temp/press you dont have to drill into the oil pan and such. Assuming your filter plates have this application. Ill post pics of my oil filter relocation kit...
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 05:26 PM
Plus additional oil capacity
Sil03protege
November 13th, 2008, 06:07 PM
Plus additional oil capacity
How much more? I think 3.25 or 3.5L is stock capacity but correct if I am wrong.
midnitehour
November 13th, 2008, 09:51 PM
Ran about an extra quart
I filled it to full, then I started the car for about 30 seconds and the oil level dropped bellow L
Filled it again and it was good to go.
So an additional amount by whatever L to H is. A quart?
drunkmunky
November 14th, 2008, 07:54 AM
Hey jeff, can you still use a sandwich adaptor for that oil relo kit?
Myk
November 14th, 2008, 08:06 AM
Tiwing was the first person I know of to do the relocate kit.
I did mine last year, everything operates correctly, and having the 5.0 Mustang filter rocks! So when I go to the States, I stock up on Purolator Pure One oil filters! :p
midnitehour
November 14th, 2008, 08:26 AM
Hey jeff, can you still use a sandwich adaptor for that oil relo kit?
i guess you could but there is no need, as the relocation kit has holes for oil temp and pressure.
drunkmunky
November 14th, 2008, 01:57 PM
I'm pm'ing people to find out where those custom seat rails can be done. I'll get back to you asap.
CulRidr
November 14th, 2008, 03:25 PM
pretty much and if your have any guages like oil temp/press you dont have to drill into the oil pan and such. Assuming your filter plates have this application. Ill post pics of my oil filter relocation kit...
You don't need to drill into the pan even if you don't have a relocation kit. Just use a sandwich plate :)
CrazyCaker
November 14th, 2008, 03:29 PM
You don't need to drill into the pan even if you don't have a relocation kit. Just use a sandwich plate :)
Exactly. I didn't relocate and still have all my gauges (temp, pressure, oil feed) and my cooler lines hooked up to the sandwich plate. Didn't see any reason or need to relocate.
midnitehour
November 14th, 2008, 10:42 PM
I had originally ordered a sandwich plate for the lower cost but got shipped this instead.
For the added oil capacity and the ablility to run pretty much any oil filter and convienience of not having to get under the car, it works pretty well.
i can also throw in a oil cooler when ever the time or need comes as i just have to get in placed inline.
drunkmunky
November 15th, 2008, 03:19 AM
I'm not sure about your automatic radiator, but my automatic radiator had hoses that went to both the coolant system of the engine, as well as coolant system of the automatic transmission.
When I went to manual, It gave me an option of using that same system for my oil.
For the oil sandwich adaptor, I run a feed line to the turbo, an oil temp gauge as well as an oil pressure gauge.
midnitehour
November 15th, 2008, 07:43 AM
I'm not sure about your automatic radiator, but my automatic radiator had hoses that went to both the coolant system of the engine, as well as coolant system of the automatic transmission.
When I went to manual, It gave me an option of using that same system for my oil.
For the oil sandwich adaptor, I run a feed line to the turbo, an oil temp gauge as well as an oil pressure gauge.
I thought about doing that, but the protege oil pumps aren't known to be the strongest. so I didn't want excessive strain on the pump running oil through the extra core on the radiator.
In the future if i find that i need to run a cooler i'll get an external oil pump and get a cooler.
remember i'm only planning on runnin 5-7psi max.
angeloTNT
November 15th, 2008, 10:31 AM
Plus additional oil capacity
yeap... i put about 4-1/2L....
e2wJunglist
November 19th, 2008, 06:43 PM
This threads is full of excitement.. but its lacking in the PICS department.
Pro work Jeff! Keep it up!
midnitehour
November 19th, 2008, 09:29 PM
This threads is full of excitement.. but its lacking in the PICS department.
Pro work Jeff! Keep it up!
thanks.
i'll post up pics of the oil relocation in a bit.
Azi
November 22nd, 2008, 12:09 AM
this would have looked good w/ your car :p
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/3032000-3032999/3032061_8_full.jpg?092820-289
midnitehour
November 22nd, 2008, 06:31 AM
that is one big fmic.
I was just telling Jr about that picture, I believe that guy had a perrin.
super stealth though!
GUYS! i'm debating if I should install the turbo today!
starscream
November 22nd, 2008, 09:46 AM
that is one big fmic.
I was just telling Jr about that picture, I believe that guy had a perrin.
super stealth though!
GUYS! i'm debating if I should install the turbo today!
Honestly at this point. i would run it through the winter as is then do the turbo swap in the winter for the following reasons
1) working on the car in this cold weather SUCKS
2) I find i break shit WAY more easy when its this cold
3) If shit hits the fan and something goes wrong post turbo install your gonna be FREEZING your ass off if your @ the side of the road or something
4) harder to tune right in the cold, or rather its not as accurate as some tuners have said (was looking to get a retune was told summer is better)
i dunno in the end seems better to do it in the spring/summer.
midnitehour
November 22nd, 2008, 11:03 AM
Getting a bung welded on the oil pan now.
That was the last thing I needed to get done.
Ic piping fitting will be fun lol
Need to buy more cut off wheels lol
drunkmunky
November 23rd, 2008, 12:01 AM
Make sure you get the fiberglass reinforced ones. I've burnt through 3 dremels and I'm tired of rotary tools. If you run into anything big, I suggest an angle grinder with a cut off disc, or a sawz-all. If you need to borrow some tools, lemme know, I have a crap load.
midnitehour
November 23rd, 2008, 12:09 AM
i find the fiberglass reinforced ones don't last as long as the ceramic ones.
that and they're more expensive.
but if all else fails reciprocating saw will be out.
drunkmunky
November 23rd, 2008, 12:28 AM
on metal? really... At some point I just went straight to using the angle grinder.. you get used to the nose and it's easy to become precise after some practice.
So are you putting the snail on or?
CrazyCaker
November 23rd, 2008, 07:59 AM
air die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel is the way to go.
kz9
November 23rd, 2008, 08:46 AM
The best cut off wheels on the market are Walter Zip Cut. I use these everyday in the Pipefitting/Plumbing Industry. They do EVERY type of metal and they never break.
I used a grinder when I made my room for my IC piping. I even weld some supoort back in the front clip after I was done.
midnitehour
November 23rd, 2008, 09:13 AM
So are you putting the snail on or?
well here lies the problem. it's a daily driver and starscream brought up some good points.
i really want to, i'm just worried it'll go boom. And for tuning, there really is no reference for me to go by, it'll have to be a complete custom tune cus no one has done what i'm doing.
so spring might be the best time to slap this sucker on, plus the 25days of vacation next year will have to get used at some point.
CrazyCaker
November 23rd, 2008, 09:14 AM
The best cut off wheels on the market are Walter Zip Cut.
Agreed. That's what I use as well.
drunkmunky
November 23rd, 2008, 11:18 AM
I thought you said there was online maps that you could download?
angeloTNT
November 23rd, 2008, 01:59 PM
I thought you said there was online maps that you could download?
yes if your doing SS-AFC with stock parts, exhaust and intake. Hes adding the turbo as well with the valve body which makes things a little more interesting.
midnitehour
November 23rd, 2008, 03:59 PM
I thought you said there was online maps that you could download?
there are but again it's a big question mark because those are all based off the 5spd ecu or the msp so i don't know what the tunes are like,
drunkmunky
November 23rd, 2008, 04:15 PM
Do you guys have a vvb/vvi? The maps should be the same shouldn't they?. I don't see how your transmission would have anything to do with the amount of fuel and air you would need @ say 3200 rpm. Is there any aftermarket manufacturer that has a daughterboard or something which runs the same mapping but can be applied onto the automatic ecu?
Jeff, do you have an old set of endlinks, front and rear?
kc mazda
January 17th, 2009, 10:35 PM
How is the project going on now??? I'm doing a turbo in my neon....
midnitehour
January 18th, 2009, 07:44 AM
Project is at a cold halt, waiting for spring to slap the turbo on, as working in the cold is not fun,
tiwing
January 18th, 2009, 09:12 AM
Get those lines braided!Jeff I just caught this thread. good build!
I agree with Joe, get them braided, but not in order to handle the extra pressure, to protect from rubbing. I had my relocation kit in for almot 80,000km, and about a month ago rubbed through one of the lines causing a slow oil leak. When I originally installed I was very careful, as it looks like you were, to ensure the lines weren't rubbing against anything, but shit moves around and I didn't know it... So now I'm going to get braided once the car's back on the road and build some custom bracketry to hold everything exactly in place.
with the filter facing up, when you take it off won't you spill all the oil from the filter? I located mine so the filter hangs off the adaptor...
Mike_Moss
January 18th, 2009, 09:50 AM
Assuming the lines aren't in an extremely hot place, you could offer some decent protection on the cheap using plastic corrugated wiring loom.
I used some on my turbo's oil feed line because it was rubbing against the head. It's braided SS, and the head is aluminum so the head lost the battle and there was visible wear after only 5,000 km.
CrazyCaker
January 18th, 2009, 10:04 AM
I agree with Joe, get them braided, but not in order to handle the extra pressure, to protect from rubbing. I had my relocation kit in for almot 80,000km, and about a month ago rubbed through one of the lines causing a slow oil leak. When I originally installed I was very careful, as it looks like you were, to ensure the lines weren't rubbing against anything, but shit moves around and I didn't know it... So now I'm going to get braided once the car's back on the road and build some custom bracketry to hold everything exactly in place.
Yeah that's exactly why I mentioned getting the braided lines. I had the same thing happen to me when I first installed my oil cooler a few years ago if you remember. I was using hi-temp double layered and reinforced silicone hose and it still managed to rub through near my rad where one of the lines happened to be touching on the edge of the rad support.
midnitehour
January 18th, 2009, 10:10 AM
The line is double steel braided,
So there's rubber, steel, rubber, steel and rubber again,
The line is actually meant for hydraulics for dump trucks and stuff, i'm gonna make brackets for it this spring with aluminum,
Just waiting for warmer weather before I decide to get dirty,
I think the lines will be fine, if anything the the lines will run through the rusty oil pan lol
tiwing
January 18th, 2009, 12:28 PM
sounds like they're good then! Mine were just inexpensive lines, like it sounds like Joe's were too... but yeah, brackets = good.
tiwing
January 18th, 2009, 12:29 PM
Assuming the lines aren't in an extremely hot place, you could offer some decent protection on the cheap using plastic corrugated wiring loom.that's a good idea Mike. I might do that instead/as well.
CrazyCaker
January 18th, 2009, 01:52 PM
sounds like they're good then! Mine were just inexpensive lines, like it sounds like Joe's were too... but yeah, brackets = good.
They weren't inexpensive, just obviously didn't suit the environment I used them in. Since then I've changed everything to braided goodyear rubber lines just to make sure it never happens again.
midnitehour
March 13th, 2009, 06:14 PM
sooo bump
got my turbo clocked today, at this place called turbo masters inc at dixie and derry.
the guy wasn't the most friendly, but he did it for free and i was in and out in under ten minutes...
also got a new exhaust manifold gasket, and now looking for the other misc gaskets, the dealership wanted 47 dollars for the gasket between the turbo and s-pipe.. they're 16 bucks on ebay.
tomorrow i bolt everthing back up together, (thanks Edwin for the torque specs) and install happens hopefully the last week of march.
Azi
March 13th, 2009, 06:25 PM
if you can find a used corksport s pipe now would be the best time to get one =D
midnitehour
March 13th, 2009, 06:39 PM
I'm trying to think out the steps in my head before i actually go in and do the install.. post up if you guys know if i'm missing a step or if you know a better way.
0.1) print this. print Mazdaspeed turbo install instructions. print turbo torque specs
1) Drain motor oil, tranny fluid, coolant.
(i've got castrol synthetic 5w30, k&n filter, mobile atf fluid, and premixed prestone coolant)
2) remove bumper cover
3) remove ractive header
4) remove vibrant strut bar
4.1) remove K&N intake (clean filter)
5) remove battery
6) remove stock oil pan, rub off any remaning / stuck sealant
7) bolt on new oil pan with oil return fitting, with sealant
8) remove coolant lines from throttle body, insert turbo coolant lines
8.1) install oil line T at oil pressure senor. run lines to turbo location.
9) cut holes in front body for the fmic pipes.
10) POR-15 the cut holes, cover edges with split hose.
11) tap vacuum lines for wastegate and BOV.
12) install turbo manifold / turbo / s-pipe / j-pipe
12.1) install O2 sensor , egr pipe
13) route / cut/ fit pipes. (the longest / hardest part)
13.1) self note: Air filter -> IAT-> turbo -> IC -> MAF -> bov -> intake mani.
14) run coolant lines to turbo
15) place a little oil in oil lines run oil lines to turbo
16) rewire SSAFC to dual power source
17) update SSAFC to boosted map
18) check all clamps -> filter-> pipes -> turbo -> pipes, -> IC -> pipes -> Map -> bov -> throttle body.
19) check all clamps / nuts OIL-> oil lines T -> oil pressure sensor -> oil lines -> turbo -> oil return line -> oil pan. Oil pan drain nut
20) check all clamps / nuts Coolant -> throttle body -> turbo -> return. Radiator drain plug.
21) Tranny drain bolt.
22) refill motor oil, atf, coolant, windshield fluid, blinker fluid.
23) reconnect battery
24) crank (pull fuel pump fuse?)
25) start
26) turn off, check for leaks
27) start test. smile.
missing anything?
midnitehour
March 13th, 2009, 06:41 PM
if you can find a used corksport s pipe now would be the best time to get one =D
they're impossible to find, i tired looking, one got posted on the us boards at 12:50 and sold at 2:30.
i'm not excessively worried about the s-pipe as zoro has them pre made. we shall call it the zorro pipe.
although i'd gladly take a corksport or ghl down pipe / s-pipe if someone has a lead on it.
kz9
March 13th, 2009, 08:46 PM
I put my IAT after the turbo. But most people put them on the intake....
midnitehour
March 13th, 2009, 10:55 PM
how do you keep it in place? wouldn't the pressure just blow it out?
kz9
March 14th, 2009, 04:47 AM
I put it through a coupler and then through the clamp. I used a couple of o-rings to help seal it and then tightened down the clamp. I'll post a pic for you.
No leaks....
Brian MP5T
March 14th, 2009, 08:55 AM
Or you can get a threaded IAT sensor and weld a bung in it..
evil_y2k_twin
March 14th, 2009, 12:12 PM
Jeff, let me know when you are going to install, i'll come and lend a hand cause i want to learn.
angeloTNT
March 15th, 2009, 09:22 AM
13.1) self note: Air filter -> IAT-> turbo -> IC -> MAF -> bov -> intake mani.
BOV after maf? not sure if it has the same affect as a standard transmisson but wont it still feel like your going to stall?
Brian MP5T
March 15th, 2009, 02:16 PM
BOV Must be before the MAF.. and after the turbo..
Filter, Turbo, BOV, Intercooler, maf, Intake MANI..
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/Picture%204.jpg
starscream
March 15th, 2009, 02:53 PM
BOV Must be before the MAF.. and after the turbo..
Filter, Turbo, BOV, Intercooler, maf, Intake MANI..
WRONG, its not a must. Maybe a optimal way IF your venting to atmosphere.
you CAN have the BOV after the maf, provided you want to run a dual setup. Also theres tons of guys running the BOV after the maf and its still fine. Also this is for a vented setup. If your recircing, you'll be fine if you run it after the bov 100% as that metered air is still in the system.
FWIW, i have mine as Filter-MAF-Turbo-IC-BOV-TB-Manifold w/ there being a Forge BPV running from Intercooler pipe to the intake.
Brian MP5T
March 16th, 2009, 12:11 AM
Dude, first, Telling me that I'm Flat WRONG is totally HOMO of you.
A BOV is 100% Vented.
A BPV is 100% Recirculated.
Telling the guy that it's OK just because a bunch of other dudes have it set up wrong, but that it works is BS.
Just because other people don't know what they are doing, does not mean that we should be telling him to do it wrong too. We should offer the best solution and explain why, then let him decide.
I have been tuning and modifying the protege since 2003. I have tried almost every configuration, any air that is allowed to vent, is metered and will fool the ECU into thinking that there is more air going into the motor. It will then add FUEL to offset the air that it thinks is going in the intake. Just because it still runs does not mean that it is a solution. Between every shift, the car will add a ton of fuel that it does not need, this will foul plugs, and rob a significant amount of HP. By relocating the BOV, the turbo system will be able to vent, but because the MAF is on the opposite side of the turbo, no air will be registered and thus no extra fuel will stall out or bog the engine during shifts.
The forum is for discussion, you are on the staff of the forum, you should know better, get off your cloud.
I hope you were just having a bad day. You sound like a tool..
starscream
March 16th, 2009, 12:34 AM
Dude, first, Telling me that I'm Flat WRONG is totally HOMO of you.
Sorry, i was being brutally honest. But you can run the BOV after the maf. Especially with the SS Afc (since that what he does have).
A BOV is 100% Vented.
A BPV is 100% Recirculated.
Telling the guy that it's OK just because a bunch of other dudes have it set up wrong, but that it works is BS.
Just because other people don't know what they are doing, does not mean that we should be telling him to do it wrong too. We should offer the best solution and explain why, then let him decide.
Umm i fully understand both a BOV and a BPV, also a BOV can be recirculated (i suppose making that a BPV). However you clearly didnt read the rest of my post, to see that my point wasnt only that other people have successfully ran it.
I have been tuning and modifying the protege since 2003. I have tried almost every configuration, any air that is allowed to vent, is metered and will fool the ECU into thinking that there is more air going into the motor. It will then add FUEL to offset the air that it thinks is going in the intake. Just because it still runs does not mean that it is a solution. Between every shift, the car will add a ton of fuel that it does not need, this will foul plugs, and rob a significant amount of HP. By relocating the BOV, the turbo system will be able to vent, but because the MAF is on the opposite side of the turbo, no air will be registered and thus no extra fuel will stall out or bog the engine during shifts.
I understand this, but again hes got the SS Afc that can tune out for it. Its great youve ran so many setups, however you still didnt explain WHY (before this post that is) its better to run it before the MAF. Again neither have I to an extent. However I have spoken to Jeff in person and we were somewhat discussin recirculating the BOV, so if thats the case the air being vented (and in this case being recirced) would still be metered in, and shouldnt cause a problem its basically the stock setup in a sense. I did fail to say that so maybe hence part of my thinking was with that and knowing that information.
The forum is for discussion, you are on the staff of the forum, you should know better, get off your cloud.
Umm which cloud? I have a MSP, i have also done modding i have also some knowledge to spread around. Sorry if directly pointing out that your absolute must was wrong imo.
I hope you were just having a bad day. You sound like a tool.. Kinda was having a bad day tho, cleaning the garage after the winter is never fun :( However if you want to discuss any of this further i am welcome to disscussing it with you in a PM. Weve both given him the info he needs to make a decision as to how he could/should/want to run it.
***EDIT***
Sleeping over it, maybe I was a bit hasty in saying your flatout wrong. I suppose having some more information then you or rather more of an idea of what the OP wanted to do set my mindframe in a particular way.
CrazyCaker
March 16th, 2009, 08:01 AM
I have my BOV in the same spot as Brian_MP5T, which is the correct way of doing it. I have to agree with everything that Brian said.
On a side note, I'm running a MAP sensor anyways so it wouldn't matter where I put it either way :p
starscream
March 16th, 2009, 09:18 AM
I have my BOV in the same spot as Brian_MP5T, which is the correct way of doing it. I have to agree with everything that Brian said.
On a side note, I'm running a MAP sensor anyways so it wouldn't matter where I put it either way :p
Yeah running a MAP sensor is soo much better, I remember there being a few places that had some way to take out the MAF and convert the system to MAP yet retaining the stock ECU but I dont see any of those any more. Probably cheaper and smarter to just go out right standalone.
Its the correct way IF your venting to atmosphere, I can agree on that (but its not the only way it can be ran. Its also up for debate if running the MAF after the turbo kills it because of the pressured air, but again thats a totally different matter ,no conclusive evidence of that however). But if your running a recirc setup it should be after the MAF because then that metered air has to still be accounted for.
But it depends on how Jeff runs it. I personally have my setup after the maf and theres no issues with it, however i am dual venting and havent ran into any problems. But i have been thinking to completely do away with the BOV and have it recirc everything. The sound sounded cool at first...but now its just an attention grabber, especially with every civic hearing it wanting to race. LOL @ the kid who let off the clutch in stop and go traffic when looking at me wanting to race and bashing his car into the car ahead of him!
midnitehour
March 20th, 2009, 04:51 PM
I'll be starting the process Monday morning, possibly sunday night depending how antzy i get.
Any one is welcome to watch / help PM me for address.
starscream
March 20th, 2009, 05:30 PM
I'll be there to help :P See joo on monday!
midnitehour
March 20th, 2009, 07:37 PM
turbo is being assembled, pics to come shortly. yey for shinny stuff.
soo excited.
1MAZDA
March 20th, 2009, 09:25 PM
Good Luck!
drunkmunky
March 20th, 2009, 09:28 PM
I'll offer an extra hand. I want to see this setup.
angeloTNT
March 20th, 2009, 09:37 PM
ill pass by after work around 4 jeff if u guys are still working on it. ill help out...
midnitehour
March 20th, 2009, 09:48 PM
^we'll definetly still be at it.
So who's coming
1)Laleet
2)Keika
3)Azi
4)Leo
5)Pat?
midnitehour
March 20th, 2009, 10:19 PM
tapa tapa
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/8241/img1861g.jpg (http://img7.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1861g.jpg)
soon
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4643/img1862k.jpg (http://img19.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1862k.jpg)
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/img1862k.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img19/img1862k.jpg/1/)
all assembled and shinny
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8863/img1873v.jpg (http://img18.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1873v.jpg)
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4426/img1871c.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1871c.jpg)
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/img1871c.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img9/img1871c.jpg/1/)
drunkmunky
March 22nd, 2009, 01:39 PM
You tapped out the holes so you could clock the cold side in a different direction???
With the turbo being a bottom mount, how are you going to setup your oil feed since it is so close to the manifold? Do you have SS oil lines?
The hole in the manifold, is that for an o2 sensor? is that manifold an aftermarket cast?
Is that a t2 turbo? what is the .AR & trim?
starscream
March 22nd, 2009, 03:57 PM
You tapped out the holes so you could clock the cold side in a different direction???
With the turbo being a bottom mount, how are you going to setup your oil feed since it is so close to the manifold? Do you have SS oil lines?
The hole in the manifold, is that for an o2 sensor? is that manifold an aftermarket cast?
Is that a t2 turbo? what is the .AR & trim?
Holy questions!
I can answer a few. It is a o2 sensor hole in the manifold, its cast and it is aftermarket from callaway however it was installed as stock on Mazdaspeed Proteges. Turbo is a T2 (GT25R from what i remember) not sure on the A/R to be honest maybe stamped in the compressor housing.
angeloTNT
March 22nd, 2009, 11:10 PM
if i remember correctly we tried clocking the turbo for easier and less piping route..
midnitehour
March 22nd, 2009, 11:42 PM
the middle section of the turbo has not changed orientation, just the compressor housing was rotated.
piping will be significantly shorter and will have a lot less bends.
trim? .68ar? not sure.
Brian MP5T
March 23rd, 2009, 12:10 AM
I don't understand why there was a need to tap new holes. You don't even have to remove the bolts, just loosen them and rotate where you want the compressor housing..
starscream
March 23rd, 2009, 12:22 AM
did you retap because of the wastegate mounting? like actual plate the wastegate mounts to, if i recall correctly is bolted to the back of the compressor housing. wasnt it something along those lines or something why it was tapped? being that you rotated the compressor so that leaves the turbine and wastegate in the same location, but the holes may not match up (for mounting the wastegate mounting plate/thinggy.
drunkmunky
March 23rd, 2009, 01:05 AM
You can't really clock the middle... only the compressor housing or the turbine housing. It sucks sometimes because depending on how your manifold mounts, some turbo's can't get a perfect or straight gravity feed for oil.
Makes sense that it would be tapped to relocate the wg.
Did you get a bung welded to your lower oil pan or is there another oem type piece? I want to check it out tomorrow.
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 05:31 AM
did you retap because of the wastegate mounting? like actual plate the wastegate mounts to, if i recall correctly is bolted to the back of the compressor housing. wasnt it something along those lines or something why it was tapped? being that you rotated the compressor so that leaves the turbine and wastegate in the same location, but the holes may not match up (for mounting the wastegate mounting plate/thinggy.
correct!
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 05:34 AM
You can't really clock the middle... only the compressor housing or the turbine housing. It sucks sometimes because depending on how your manifold mounts, some turbo's can't get a perfect or straight gravity feed for oil.
Makes sense that it would be tapped to relocate the wg.
Did you get a bung welded to your lower oil pan or is there another oem type piece? I want to check it out tomorrow.
the middle isn't clocked, it was in response to your concerns about the oild feed, the setup is a stock msp set up which has no issues with oil or coolant feeds.
I rotated the compressor housing which resulted in the wastegate bracket not being able to bolt up to it any more (bolts now on the opposite side) so i had to drill and tap to bolt it up.
I have a tapped oil pan for the oil return.
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 06:37 AM
last and final run to CT to pick up high temp thread sealant, and extra hose.
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 06:38 AM
for anyone that is coming over, dress warm.. it's cold today.
evil_y2k_twin
March 23rd, 2009, 07:53 AM
Still going to be there after 7pm? lol
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 08:52 AM
I think me has a problem.
i think the wastegate that i have is fully furbared.
I pumped air into it and it just leaks out, ocassionally the rod will move if i hold it at a certain angle but other wise the air just comes out and the rod doesn't do shit.
any one have a stock or atp wastegate they want to sell to me now?
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 09:12 AM
sigh.. new wga ordered... will be here tomorrow.
evil_y2k_twin
March 23rd, 2009, 10:07 AM
So then...what are you going to do today then?
drunkmunky
March 23rd, 2009, 10:48 AM
If you could put some JB weld when you thread the fitting onto the oil pan, that'd be better since you've just tapped the pan rather than weld a bung.
You don't want it to start leaking fluid.
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 10:10 PM
If you could put some JB weld when you thread the fitting onto the oil pan, that'd be better since you've just tapped the pan rather than weld a bung.
You don't want it to start leaking fluid.
just to clarify, there is a bung welded into the oil pan.
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 10:50 PM
Intake is off, and dismantling started at 11am.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1807.jpg
Oil is drained.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1808.jpg
Laleet came over around 12ish
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1809.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1810.jpg
Rad flushed, tranny flushed to pull the rad out.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1811.jpg
gloves sucks.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1812.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1813.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1814.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1815.jpg
undoing the tranny cooler was a bitch.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1816.jpg
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 10:51 PM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1817.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1818.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1819.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1820.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1821.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1822.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1823.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1824.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1825.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1826.jpg
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 11:01 PM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1827.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1828.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1829.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1830.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1831.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1832.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1833.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1834.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1835.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1836.jpg
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 11:01 PM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1837.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1838.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1839.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1840.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1841.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1842.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1843.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1844.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1845.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1846.jpg
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 11:02 PM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1847.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1848.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1849.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1850.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1851.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1852-1.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1853-1.jpg
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http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1855-1.jpg
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midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 11:02 PM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1857.jpg
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http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1859.jpg
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midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 11:05 PM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1869.jpg
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http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1875.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1876.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1877.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1878.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1879.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1880.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1881.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1882.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1883.jpg
midnitehour
March 23rd, 2009, 11:17 PM
Big Thanks to:
Laleet,
Keika,
Billy
Leo
Pat
Azi
Mike
for all the help today,
So far. everything that had to come out is out, previous issue with wga turned out just to be pre install paranoia.
turbo mani, turbo, spipe are bolted together, oil and coolant lines are run.
Intercooler is mounted.
Pending:
intercooler piping, still more deciscions being made here.
tuning.
powersteering cooler relocation
refill all fluids,
start.
I ran into some problems today,
Clocking the turbo was a bigger headache as the turbo facing downwards results in a very narrow space between the turbo, block and tranny.
the 2.5" piping that I had would not fit due to a notch in the tranny,
The solution was to run a 2" elbow from the turbo which would then go to a 2.5". (turbo output is 2" so not much is lost or gained here)
We ran into the same problem as everyone else has that don't have msp radiators, hot side piping.
The solution was to cut a hole in the front sheet metal to allow the IC piping. more cutting will be done tomorrow.
we accomplished far more than expected today, and the central meet may be a possiblity tomorrow night.
I had 2 msp's and a boosted mp3 all leave my place at the same time.
Soon.
evil_y2k_twin
March 24th, 2009, 06:28 AM
Uploading the vids now!
thekid
March 24th, 2009, 07:31 AM
Nice progress Jeff, although by the pictures it looks like you and maybe Laleet were the only ones actually doing any work! :p
evil_y2k_twin
March 24th, 2009, 07:44 AM
VIDEOS!!!!!!
Re-installing the EGR (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-naPv4lyh0)
Close up of Turbo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIvTZ6WZ0o0)
Test fitting of Front Bumper (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4JOtzYNEGU)
Laleet Cutting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtbFkdAjefo)
Jeff Underneath the pro (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2DUO9vlJlI)
Jeff Cutting Piping (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGhKt14L3BI)
Laleet Removing HID Ballasts (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UapYfWyuBu4)
Intercooler Mounting Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mJXh9earQs)
Intercooler Mounting Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCyljosVXes)
Test Fit of the Front bumper with Intercooler (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNXou2MuKLI)
midnitehour
March 24th, 2009, 07:54 AM
we need to give laleet dremel lessons. lol
midnitehour
March 24th, 2009, 08:04 AM
Nice progress Jeff, although by the pictures it looks like you and maybe Laleet were the only ones actually doing any work! :p
tis true, we were the dirtiest, but everyone pitched in,
Keika did some head, gasket and oil pan work.
Billy helped out when moving stuff.
Pat made movies
Azi helped with the intercooler.
Leo looked pretty.
mr moss helped address concers with ic piping.
the moral support was worth it, that and the redicilous amounts of laughter kept the night going.
"what's bukake?"
"let me show you."
thekid
March 24th, 2009, 09:57 AM
Keika did some head
Say no more... :p
starscream
March 24th, 2009, 11:13 AM
tis true, we were the dirtiest, Keika did some head, Pat made movies, Leo looked.
"what's bukake?"
"let me show you."
I fixxed what you said ;) LOL jokes jokes!
Was good... tiring.. but good
evil_y2k_twin
March 24th, 2009, 11:19 AM
^^^ lmao
midnitehour
March 24th, 2009, 12:28 PM
WTH!!lol
Keika did head work as in she cleaned up and polished the head.
she's gonna be angry with us.
keika you're the best :p
CrazyCaker
March 24th, 2009, 12:34 PM
Keika did head work as in she cleaned up and polished the head.
LMAO that's not much better! :lol:
CulRidr
March 24th, 2009, 01:09 PM
LMAO that's not much better! :lol:
I almost spat out what I was just eating when I read this...LOL :lol:
drunkmunky
March 24th, 2009, 02:54 PM
"Multiple Homicides in West end home. Group appears to have been assasinated with a box wrench and a set of plyers."
RicecookerP5
March 24th, 2009, 03:31 PM
it's comin along. nice progress. looks like you had quite the audience.
Azi
March 24th, 2009, 09:43 PM
EGR nut FTMFL
drunkmunky
March 24th, 2009, 09:44 PM
how'd it go today?
kc mazda
March 24th, 2009, 10:37 PM
WOW....Good job guys, I need to ask one thing where were you all when I was doing my turbo install...LOL...I hope everything is going smoothly, I know what kind of time is needed especially when piping all the IC piping.... I saw the video of the IC install, what did you use to hold it up and what are you going to use for tuning fuel???
angeloTNT
March 24th, 2009, 10:56 PM
WOW....Good job guys, I need to ask one thing where were you all when I was doing my turbo install...LOL...I hope everything is going smoothly, I know what kind of time is needed especially when piping all the IC piping.... I saw the video of the IC install, what did you use to hold it up and what are you going to use for tuning fuel???
they used 4 L-Brackets mounted to so-scalled rebar and he has a SS AFC for a piggyback with N/A Maps.
couldnt really do much except hold stuff to make everything fit lol... came from work for both days and wasnt really dressed for doing diirrrty work..:p
midnitehour
March 25th, 2009, 12:06 AM
EGR nut FTMFL
1/2" npt tap to buy
more pictures on the way.
midnitehour
March 25th, 2009, 12:24 AM
Today Murphy must have been rolling over in his grave..
first, IC piping was mapped out, but some how things got shifted from when i made the cuts to when the radiator went back in.
Soo the IC piping had to be redone. this had to be the most frustrating time i've ever had with this car. nothing like doing the hardest part twice.
For the piping, the hot side had to have a hole cut to the left of the rad in order to get the piping to the front, i've seen people run the piping under the rad but with daily drives into toronto, i think that's begging for trouble.
I then ran the cold side straight into the space infront of the driver's side wheel and ran the piping up through the hole and then to the bov maf and so on.
After doing this and clamping down some of the couplers i test fit the bumper and found, that you can't have piping behind the p5 fog housing unless you cut it. FUN
so undid all of the piping and cut another hole to the right of the IC and ran it straight to the bov maf and intake.. This cut out a whole LOT of piping.. pretty sweet.
after all that was done, the powersteering cooler had to be shortened and re mounted, This was in order to clear the IC piping. yey for powersteering fluid spilling everywhere.
last and current halt at the project, the EGR nut is stripped. so tomorrow i'll buy the tap and continue on.
but after the guys left, i decided to do some clean up.
I hate how the pro's motor is soo cluttered with coil packs wiring harnesses, hoses. soo i moved some stuff.
coil packs now sit above the intake manifold, and the wiring harness now runs around the motor instead of over.
midnitehour
March 25th, 2009, 12:30 AM
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1893.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1894.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1895.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1884.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1885.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1886.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1887.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1888.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1889.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1890.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1891.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/Turbo%20install/IMG_1892.jpg
angeloTNT
March 25th, 2009, 01:26 AM
sorry jeff i couldnt make it back...didnt wake up lol
Brian MP5T
March 25th, 2009, 06:00 AM
I'm chiming in sadly after the fact about the IC Piping.. There is plenty of room under the Rad Support, 8 Inches exactly to the ground so I don't think there was a need to cut the car, but it seems to work for you.
Lowering the FMIC would allow for a direct path under the Rad Support and also free up a ton of room behind the driving lamps. I am running 2.5" pluming without any issues for the last 5 years..
Also, I would like to voice a fear of mine when I saw you put Ignition over fuel injectors... I gotta say, that is a scary mix.
Here is what it looks like...
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2016/4481/5039740183_large.jpg
You are experiencing all the things I have already had to deal with in 2003.. I have all my notes and measurements. I would be happy to help with any more problems like this in the future.
midnitehour
March 25th, 2009, 08:05 AM
care to drive down here? i'll buy you pizza :D
good point on the coils right next to the fuel injectors.. i will have to rethink that. mother***kin murphy.
at this point all that is killing me is the egr nut.
To be quite honest with the IC piping, it's cheap piping, and yea if I actually hit something high enough i'd probably be doing alot more damage to everthing around it, but only upside is that i've got alot shorter piping now. running it under would mean quite alot more 90* bends.
Brian question about your photo, aren't you concerened about not haveing a rebar?
I'm chiming in sadly after the fact about the IC Piping.. There is plenty of room under the Rad Support, 8 Inches exactly to the ground so I don't think there was a need to cut the car, but it seems to work for you.
Lowering the FMIC would allow for a direct path under the Rad Support and also free up a ton of room behind the driving lamps. I am running 2.5" pluming without any issues for the last 5 years..
Also, I would like to voice a fear of mine when I saw you put Ignition over fuel injectors... I gotta say, that is a scary mix.
Here is what it looks like...
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2016/4481/5039740183_large.jpg
You are experiencing all the things I have already had to deal with in 2003.. I have all my notes and measurements. I would be happy to help with any more problems like this in the future.
midnitehour
March 25th, 2009, 01:05 PM
YEY!!!
today i shot murphy.
ATP wastegate came in the mail, it's installed,
chased the treads on the egr nut and pipe all went together the first try.
everything went back together smoothly.
now full speed ahead on the rest.
notes:
egr pipe, egr nut, egr size, egr tap, egr chase, egr thread, egr stripped.
EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation) size is metric M20 x 1.5
kz9
March 25th, 2009, 02:09 PM
Your coils are fine there if that thats what you want. Remember, a fuel system is suposed to be a leak free system.
Think about this......
The injectors are controled with electricity. lol
Nothing wrong with where they are.
midnitehour
March 25th, 2009, 02:24 PM
Your coils are fine there if that thats what you want. Remember, a fuel system is suposed to be a leak free system.
Think about this......
The injectors are controled with electricity. lol
Nothing wrong with where they are.
look who's late joining the party, lol.
I already moved them further back towards the fire wall,
it was really tight the first time around, i put the packs too close to each other and I couldn't bolt them in properly. stay tuned for pictures of the new set up.
Azi
March 25th, 2009, 11:33 PM
she's making tooo much booooooooosht
angeloTNT
March 26th, 2009, 05:59 AM
what!?!? did u guys get the "INTAKE" in?
midnitehour
March 26th, 2009, 07:58 AM
intake went in fine, lot of other things didn't work out.. sigh..
6 psi was fun for the brief moment though...
stupid couplers. stupid turbo.
Junior
March 26th, 2009, 03:20 PM
Shitty. More deets.
midnitehour
March 26th, 2009, 03:37 PM
Shitty. More deets.
turbo I had has messed seals.. so it's leaking oil like a hooker's vag at 3am :(
it's out to get fixed now.. should be complete by tomorrow.
Junior
March 26th, 2009, 03:45 PM
turbo I had has messed seals.. so it's leaking oil like a hooker's vag at 3am :(
it's out to get fixed now.. should be complete by tomorrow.
Yikes. WTF!
Did you know about the bunk'd when you baught?
midnitehour
March 26th, 2009, 03:47 PM
Yikes. WTF!
Did you know about the bunk'd when you baught?
nope. bought it 7 months ago. I don't really expect anything out of it.
got it from the US boards.
Mike_Moss
March 27th, 2009, 12:10 PM
Was sad to hear about this. :(
midnitehour
March 27th, 2009, 03:20 PM
turbo is fixed.
remounted
pipes redone
new fan
almost ready to turn over.
booooossssssshhhhhhttttttt here i come.
CrazyCaker
March 27th, 2009, 03:36 PM
Where did you get the turbo rebuilt?
Azi
March 27th, 2009, 04:24 PM
awesome. wished I could have came tonight.
midnitehour
March 27th, 2009, 08:32 PM
Where did you get the turbo rebuilt?
turbo masters inc
dealt with amer.
awesome guy. apparently the ball bearing turbo's are a bitch to rebuild.
but he said the ball bearing looked new, seals were shot though. and he gave me a new oil drain gasket. yey!
pulls soooo nice..
sounds like a f*ing jet when the turbo spools. LOL
thanks Leo for the last bit.
throwing a code p103. MAF reading high. Lol I wonder why. muhahaha.
gotta redo the oil return line.. but otherwise it's complete.
angeloTNT
March 27th, 2009, 08:37 PM
ahaha it pulls nice too!! and that SSQV does it come with a silencer!?!?! geez its loud!
Azi
March 27th, 2009, 09:07 PM
screw the silencer. thats a project for next year
midnitehour
March 27th, 2009, 09:14 PM
yea.. i gotta find a silencer for it.
don't wanna get popo after me.. lol.. it even blows off when not in boost.
evil_y2k_twin
March 27th, 2009, 10:08 PM
I am so coming to see it!~ Are you going to be awake at 7:30am? lol
midnitehour
March 27th, 2009, 11:59 PM
^ sell me your JoeP.
angeloTNT
March 28th, 2009, 07:22 AM
couplers please!!! someone donate good couplers ahahha
midnitehour
March 28th, 2009, 07:29 AM
couplers please!!! someone donate good couplers ahahha
word..
i've got some red 2" couplers thanks to Anna and Andrew, unfortunately all my piping is 2.5"
anyone want to trade? lol
midnitehour
March 28th, 2009, 07:29 AM
Also looking for a fuel cut defender or a maf clamp.
no pedal mashing till then :(
angeloTNT
March 28th, 2009, 08:19 AM
Also looking for a fuel cut defender or a maf clamp.
no pedal mashing till then :(
fuel cut defender will give you the worst milage ever...tim is getting about 200km a tank, i say get a boost controller set to a constant 6psi or 5psi since everytime you hit 7psi or 7.5psi you would get fuel cut like i was noticing last night...
e2wJunglist
March 28th, 2009, 08:25 AM
oh wow congrats Jeff! I'm really excited to see this project next time we meet. This is one hell of a great job! :D
midnitehour
March 28th, 2009, 09:17 AM
fuel cut defender will give you the worst milage ever...tim is getting about 200km a tank, i say get a boost controller set to a constant 6psi or 5psi since everytime you hit 7psi or 7.5psi you would get fuel cut like i was noticing last night...
I should be good cus my fuel is controlled by my afc. i just don't want it to hit the cut and boom and check engine light.
I'm going to start leaning out the mix. heavy 10s right now for afrs. still scared to push the pedal down :p
on another note.
how many people here are running a hks ssqv?
also why is it that i have such a loud turbo whine. sounds like a ***king jet. i can actually hear the turbo whine with the windows up and air blowing at 4
angeloTNT
March 28th, 2009, 11:43 AM
I should be good cus my fuel is controlled by my afc. i just don't want it to hit the cut and boom and check engine light.
I'm going to start leaning out the mix. heavy 10s right now for afrs. still scared to push the pedal down :p
on another note.
how many people here are running a hks ssqv?
also why is it that i have such a loud turbo whine. sounds like a ***king jet. i can actually hear the turbo whine with the windows up and air blowing at 4
if you install the piping i made below, it will solve all your problems!
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/midnitehour/IMG_1900-1.jpg
evil_y2k_twin
March 28th, 2009, 04:04 PM
^ sell me your JoeP.
JoeP?
Azi
March 28th, 2009, 08:19 PM
iirc on the hks ssqv, there is an adjustment screw to set the spring softer or harder. the harder the setting, the more pressure it will take to blow off.
angeloTNT
March 28th, 2009, 09:30 PM
iirc on the hks ssqv, there is an adjustment screw to set the spring softer or harder. the harder the setting, the more pressure it will take to blow off.
depends which SSQV... i forgot the versions but one version is un-adjustable.
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