PDA

View Full Version : Torque Wheel Nut


EYT
April 22nd, 2003, 01:13 PM
I torque 100ft/lb to my stock wheel, will this be too much,

firefly
April 22nd, 2003, 01:14 PM
85 ft/lb

MP5Navy
April 22nd, 2003, 10:28 PM
I torque wheel lug nuts to 80ft/lbs (stock wheels and aftermarket). At 100 ft/lbs you run the chance of not being able to budge the nuts with a hand tool on the side of the road.

Sentra Racer 7
April 23rd, 2003, 08:08 AM
I torque mine to 82#, on our race cars we go 85#
No reason to go any tighter

Action Jackson
May 4th, 2003, 09:20 AM
What would be the official lug nut torque be for '03 P5 stock wheels?

bluezoom
May 4th, 2003, 12:58 PM
The service manual says "When a wheel is removed, retighten it to 89-117 Nm, 9-12 kgm, 66-86 ft lb"

Action Jackson
May 5th, 2003, 02:45 AM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bluezoom @ May 04 2003,1:58)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">The service manual says &quot;When a wheel is removed, retighten it to 89-117 Nm, 9-12 kgm, 66-86 ft lb&quot;[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
66 to 86 lb/ft seems like a big range.

Thanx for the info.

bluezoom
May 5th, 2003, 09:46 AM
Yes, I thought so too, but that's a direct quote out of the service manual.

Action Jackson
May 5th, 2003, 11:27 PM
I just loosened and re-torqued the lug nuts on my not even 1 wk old car.

I was surprised that each individual wheel seemed to have a different torque setting. Some were easy to loosen, others were not. But at least each wheel's nut's felt consistent.

I retightened to 70 ft/lbs.

Jika
May 7th, 2003, 06:32 PM
when i put my summers back on, i torqued to 85ft/lbs. my problem was getting the damn winters off the hubs. quite a bit of kicking to remove.

P5 Rally
May 8th, 2003, 11:55 AM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jika @ May 07 2003,7:32)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">when i put my summers back on, i torqued to 85ft/lbs. my problem was getting the damn winters off the hubs. quite a bit of kicking to remove.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
Slap some anti-seize compound between the hub and wheel next time you remove them, and kicking your wheels loose will be a thing of the past!!!!!!! http://msg.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Logan
May 8th, 2003, 02:27 PM
I also torque to 80 ft.lbs.
I find that dealers don't usually use a torque wrench, just zip them on with their air tools and send the cars on their way.
That's probably why you found each wheel different.

Jika
May 8th, 2003, 04:29 PM
i've heard impact guns are not a good idea to use for putting your wheels back on. something about warping the hub or rotor?

superdave
May 8th, 2003, 11:28 PM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jika @ May 08 2003,5:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">i've heard impact guns are not a good idea to use for putting your wheels back on. something about warping the hub or rotor?[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I'm more worried about not being able to get the lugs off! It would have to be VERY tight to warp anything. I think you would ruin the studs before anything (stretch them)

When I got my first RX-7 the wheels had been obviously been put on at some shop with air tools. I had to jump on the end of 18&quot; breaker bar just to get them loose! Imagine if you get a flat and have to use the shitty tire iron on the side of the road.... good luck!

rowan
May 8th, 2003, 11:40 PM
Warping is more often due to tightening the nuts un-evenly, or in the wrong order so the pressure isn't evenly distributed.

I think good air-tools are adjustable for torque.

Some aftermarket lug nuts do not respond well to using impact wrenches. Torque wrench is a must. (Although I have yet to get one .. )