CulRidr's winter loot = big spring install

[CulRidr]

Well, I've been accumulating a LOT of parts over the winter, many of which are in the mail, and here is my to-do list...
Items in red are completed.

Project Growl
Install custom 4-2-1 header
Fix slightly bent header to realign exhaust
Weld in wideband O2 bung in Corksport j-pipe
Install jpipe and MAM midpipe
Install larger diameter j-pipe/midpipe
Get shorty header rewelded and wrapped

Project ZoomZoom!
Install JDM cam
Install full Medieval lightweight pulley set (WP, alt, PS and crank)
Install Corksport SS clutch line
Paint & install valve cover
Install Nyloil bushings
Paint & install Medieval air diversion panel
"Install" Miata Mazdaspeed oil cap
Install NGK wideband and tune MPI piggyback
Swap Cosmo CAI for K&N CCAI in SRI mode
Rebuild engine with higher compression pistons, Twiggys, worked head, and plenty of other goodies (http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48037)
Medieval motor mounts
Transmission
Welded MSP LSD
626 5th gear
New OEM clutch
Engine Block
10.4:1 pistons
New OEM rods
Fidanza flywheel
Balanced rotating assembly
Block bored and honed
New oil pump
AWR oil pan
Head
Eibach Valve Springs
Twiggy camshafts
Speedcircuit Stage 2 head (re-machined for perfect fitment)
Focus custom adjustable cam gears
NSN thermal spacers

Project Stiff
Replace stock MP3 struts with Mazdaspeed Aspec struts
Replace Ground Control coilover sleeves with Mazdaspeed Bspec springs
Install GTspec trailing links
Install GTspec FSTB
Install prototype AXR front endlinks
Install SS brake lines
Change MP3 swaybar for MSP swaybar (same diameter as original...online info was obviously wrong)
Install GTspec trunk cage
Replace all endlinks with RacingLine endlinks
Upgrade front brakes to MSP spec with Hawk HPS pads
Install GTspec ladder brace
Replace GTspec lower tie bar with Autoexe
Replace front swaybar bushings
Install recently bought KRM vbrace/panel
Replace front LCAs with new ones and Pedders bushings
Replace rear lateral arms with Megan Racing or Hardrace adjustable bars

Project Wow1
Replace pitted windshield
Get windows tinted
Paint/install Mintblue grill
Replace current Hi/Lo HIDs with TechOne Bi-Xe HID kit
Refinish headlights (2nd trial needs final compounding)
Install Xpel headlight covers
Install Tribute nozzles
Install rear/front chrome signals and LEDs
Install hood props
"Install" forum decals
Install Mazdaspeed rear plate cover
Install Samco hoses
Replace taillights with stock
Secret project...

Project Wow2
Replace torn driver-side MP3 seat covers with new ones
Install Mazdaspeed door sills
Paint open-style cup holders
Velcro in Mazdaspeed shoulder pads
Install Shaun Darbie Boots
Install matching centre console for cup holders
Install Prosport gauges (with oil sandwich plate, and tapped water temperature sensor)
Install MZ3 auto-dimming compass mirror

Project Boom!
Replace current head unit with MSP headunit
Replace front Excelon speakers with component Excelon speakers
Install Kenwood amp for new speakers
Install RAAMmat?

Other projects
Change timing belt/water pump/etc.
Fix e-brake
Change RR wheel bearing
Properly re-install rear door panel (attempted, won't sit properly)
Fix rust along window trim (PITA)
Fix wiring of present HID (highs not working)
Remove as much rust from the underside as possible
Fix rear bumper/tail light/quarter panel from run-in with a wall... :mad:
Replace front passenger side bearing
Replace cat with Bönez high flow cat
Replace EGR with new model
Replace O2 sensor
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Here is the list of what's already been done to the car before the build started, whether by myself - sometimes with help - or by the previous owner:

Exhaust
Wagner shorty header
Racing Beat catback
Corksport hangers

Engine/drivetrain
AWR front MM
custom filled other MM
Cosmo CAI with K&N filter
NGK long-reach plugs
Optima redtop
home-made grounding kit
TWM SS with shifter linkage bushings

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
Ground Control coilover sleeves
AXR clunk fix
GTspec lower tie bar
slotted/x-drilled rotors with KVR pads
painted calipers
painted wheels
Yokohama Neova AD07 tires

Exterior
slightly tinted "euro" tails
Tinted clear sidemarkers
stock grill with top strip painted

[Scooter]

should take about 1.5 hours :p

[dead_cactus]

I've read that some people are using the Tribute nozzles. What's the advantage over the stock nozzles?

[CulRidr]

Mist over piss :D
I'll post a video in a sec...

Here's that video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n16NMFXf14w)

[Mike_Moss]

^ awesome!!!

[dead_cactus]

Mist over piss :D
I'll post a video in a sec...

Here's that video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n16NMFXf14w)

Nice. Did you pick these up from the dealer? If s how much do they cost? Direct replacement over the stock nozzles?

[CulRidr]

I just picked mine up the other day, and it was ~28$/pair at the stealership, and yes they are a direct replacement; no fitment issues. Only hiccup with it is that us Canadians have to deal with the hood heatshield to remove the nozzles, whereas the americans don't.

[red-i]

yeah i'd totally grab those nozzlezezezzzz the stream style sucks anus.

[Kansei]

I just picked mine up the other day, and it was ~28$/pair at the stealership, and yes they are a direct replacement; not fitment issues. Only hiccup with it is that us Canadians have to deal with the hood heatshield to remove the nozzles, whereas the americans don't.

I win! Why there's a difference in the insulation under the hood I'll never understand.

sounds like a LOT of fun come spring time!

just a word of warning, the brake lines might be a total pain in the butt to get off (even with the proper wrenches made for the job). It took a lot of torching to get mine off, which of course completely destroyed the rubber lines before I even got the fitting removed.

[CulRidr]

^Ya I've heard that. That's why I'm getting it done professionally at my local shop. Great labour rates, and awesome guys in general.

My gf still thinks I'm crazy, considering how much money I've got in this car right now, but I simply love it and am just making it even more fun to drive. Now to decide whether or not to get a lower spring rate...probably going to try the Illuminas with the ground controls first, and then maybe decide whether to lower the rate or not as it's kinda bad right now (I think my shocks are on their way out), but should be better with the improved dampening of the Illuminas...

[Marleymar]

Nice list of enjoyable DIY projects as well keep us updated

[CulRidr]

Going to get a lot of help from local guys, but I enjoy doing a lot of the work that's already been done to the car, and am enjoying what was done to it before I bought it.

Stuff already done to the car as of now:

Exhaust
Wagner shorty header
Racing Beat catback
Corksport hangers

Engine/drivetrain
AWR front MM
custom filled other MM
Cosmo CAI with K&N filter
NGK long-reach plugs
Optima redtop
home-made grounding kit
TWM SS with shifter linkage bushings

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
Ground Control coilover sleeves
AXR clunk fix
GTspec lower tie bar
slotted/x-drilled rotors with KVR pads
painted calipers
painted wheels
Fuzion ZRI tires (Kumho Supras in pictures below)

Exterior
slightly tinted "euro" tails
Tinted clear sidemarkers
stock grill with top strip painted à la JDM
custom-cut XC eyelids
fog deletes
rim-matching painted emblems

Interior
Dome LEDs from Myk's GB
MS floormats
DaveBs
Sirius satellite

There will definitely be a lot of pictures with the camera I got at christmas. Here are a few from it's 1st photoshoot last summer (pardon the roofrack (bought from Josh160), but I bike during the summer and couldn't be bothered with taking it off).

My avatar which everyone knows, and my favourite picture as it stands now
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0020.jpg

My best wheelshot
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0019.jpg

The car sporting some Sens gear on the mirror
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0012.jpg

Some booty
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0031.jpg

Crappy booty night shot with the new tails
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0062.jpg

Interior
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0038.jpg

DIRTY engine bay
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0043.jpg

Some dark DIRRRTY crappy phone pix of...(at my local tire shop (http://www.thetireshop.ca), where I'll be getting the brake/clutch lines installed)
...the GTspec addition (painted)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Copyof27-10-07_1349.jpg

...the new catback w/hangers
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/27-10-07_1348.jpg

...the replaced windsplitter and custom eyelids (this one is for Crazy)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/27-10-07_1404.jpg

Pardon the long post...

[Mike_Moss]

Nice pics! :)

[Kansei]

mmmmmm mp3s look so good

love the msp front grille (or painted mp3 grille, whichever is the case)

[CulRidr]

mmmmmm mp3s look so good

love the msp front grille (or painted mp3 grille, whichever is the case)
Thanks :)
Answer below...

...
Exterior
slightly tinted "euro" tails
Tinted clear sidemarkers
stock grill with top strip painted à la JDM
custom-cut XC eyelids
fog deletes
rim-matching painted emblems
...

[CulRidr]

Thanks :)
Nice pics! :)

[MSP-D]

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0043.jpg



did you paint the tower bar yourself?

[CulRidr]

^Nope. Comes stock like that :) Got to love the nice effect it gives for the blue and/or yellow theme that all MP3s have!

[Kansei]

or the yellow/yellow theme that yellow MP3s have

[CulRidr]

good point, fixed :)

[Shasta]

Good stuff I see your name everywhere something is being sold....;)

[hypnotized]

I just picked mine up the other day, and it was ~28$/pair at the stealership, and yes they are a direct replacement; not fitment issues. Only hiccup with it is that us Canadians have to deal with the hood heatshield to remove the nozzles, whereas the americans don't.
How hard is the heat sheild to remove?

edit - is there anything that can be done about the rear nozzle on the p5?

[CulRidr]

No idea yet. I'll find out this weekend when I attempt it. It's apparently not that easy according to a another Canadian member on themazdaforum, but I'll you guys posted when I attemp this myself.

[MSP-D]

I definitely like the yellow and blue theme, maybe I should somehow get my tower bar to be blue!:D

[Azi]

How hard is the heat sheild to remove?

edit - is there anything that can be done about the rear nozzle on the p5?

its not that hard. all you need is like a mini pry bar that can get under the cover, and push the clips out

[sixtwosix]

I love the thule roof rack!

[hypnotized]

its not that hard. all you need is like a mini pry bar that can get under the cover, and push the clips out

Nice, I'll add this to my spring to do list. Thanks

[The Destroyer]

its not that hard. all you need is like a mini pry bar that can get under the cover, and push the clips out
Ya definitely, props to you for the help getting that taken off. Once I figured out the technique for taking the clips out it was fairly simple. Just need needlenose pliers and such to pull and twist the clips out but it does take a bit of effort. I love the new nozzles as the blades do a much better job now of clearing the whole windshield. Only downside is the nozzles do not spray as far to the left for my liking so there is a little strip at the bottom just below the drivers view that doesn't get cleared properly in the cold weather (fine with rain). Oh well, much better then the stock piss treams. You'll enjoy them!

Great list, my list is continually growing as my parts arrive as well! :)

[CulRidr]

Glad to know I could help. I guess you just bought them recently?
As for the technique for taking them off, if it wasn't for the stupid heat shield, most people say to use a deep 10mm socket and push it though, but I'll try the needle nozes.
And as for the small part on the left not being sprayed, EVERYONE has said that so you aren't the only one. If you omit this, the only other thing others have mentioned is that it's not quite as effective at high speed; small price to pay if you ask me...

[The Destroyer]

^ Yes actually Azi hooked me up and also helped take everything apart when we met up as well. Took maybe 20 mins to install properly, but it was definitely a good upgrade. My windshield has never looked cleaner during the winter. Combine that with my switch to rainx winter washer fluid and new bosch icon blades and it'd be hard to find a better combination. You'll definitely be real happy with them, and I look forward to seeing pictures of your other upgrades as I will be performing a few of those myself over the next 2-3 months.

[CulRidr]

Ya I got some Bosch Icons as well, and just need to go buy RainX myself as my reservoir is coming near empty...

[The Destroyer]

Ya I got some Bosch Icons as well, and just need to go buy RainX myself as my reservoir is coming near empty...
Make sure you fully empty your resevoir though due to the stuff in the rainx fluid (deicer). If you have the washer light on your dash it'll take a while from the time that goes on to full empty the tank so keep that in mind. Just dont want to mix the old stuff with this stuff as there is quite a difference.

[CulRidr]

the stuff I have in there is what remains from last winter (motomaster stuff). Is it that big a deal?

[The Destroyer]

the stuff I have in there is what remains from last winter (motomaster stuff). Is it that big a deal?
Just get rid of it as it will dilute the deicer stuff and cause it not to be as effective. Even drain it for a couple mins if you have to, it actually works out well if its empty as the resevoir will take the full jug of the rainx with a little space to spare.

[CulRidr]

Preview of what the car will look like with the Mintblue grill. Anyone want to photoshop it with the right colour? I'm a complete noob and couldn't figure it out...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0086.jpg

[dead_cactus]

the stuff I have in there is what remains from last winter (motomaster stuff). Is it that big a deal?

You'll be fine.

[prot3g3]

pcis loook good...that grill looks sweet as well....better when painted..asuming it is getting painted :p

[CulRidr]

Small update. The suble effect/difference chrome-dipped bulbs give is impressive. Courtesy of Myk's LED/bulbs GB:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Before_After_ChromeBulbs.jpg

[danny1rod]

Make sure you fully empty your resevoir though due to the stuff in the rainx fluid (deicer). If you have the washer light on your dash it'll take a while from the time that goes on to full empty the tank so keep that in mind. Just dont want to mix the old stuff with this stuff as there is quite a difference.


does the P5 have a dash light for washer fluid?????

[dead_cactus]

^yes

[danny1rod]

well I don't know if mine works then b/c one time it was working then I put some fluid in and it started to work again...

[00bluees]

Engine/drivetrain
AWR front MM
custom filled other MM
Cosmo CAI with K&N filter
NGK long-reach plugs
Optima redtop
home-made grounding kit
TWM SS with shifter linkage bushings

what did you use to custom fill your motor mounts? i'm think of doing this on my neon (since i don't want to try on my good p5) and wondered what you used and how it worked. i will be trying this after i fill the strut mounts, which is another neon thing, they are enlessly clunking and apparently filling them fixes it so i'm going to give it a shot.

[CulRidr]

The guy from whom I bought the car did it...but it was window weld I think they called it. It's urethane...

Edit: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72087&highlight=fill+motor+mount

[CulRidr]

Fixed the handbrake today, and replaced the top part of my drivers seat. Notice the difference with the rip on the bottom of the vinyl insert, and the scuff at the top.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0194.jpg

[CulRidr]

I love the thule roof rack!

Wait till I put a picture of the bikes on it this summer :cool:

[KJS]

I tried... :rolleyes:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2148/2359866748_330677c63f_o.jpg

[CulRidr]

That's not bad actually...but I know it will look better in person :)
Big update tomorrow on stuff done :)

[CulRidr]

New shots of some of the work done yesterday:

Newer engine bay pic (still dirty), with K&N CCAI, SS clutch line (you can see a bit of it between the coolant line and the ballast) and displaced cruise control module (ballasts will be moved when the new kit goes in):

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0218.jpg

SS brake lines:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0220.jpg

The "new" swaybar, with the adjusted muffler (was hitting the lip):

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0223.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0226.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0227.jpg

Bonus cool shot :)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0216.jpg

[Mike_Moss]

...so much rust... :(

Please undercoat more often!

Damn those pics were hard to look at.

[CulRidr]

^Blame the 1st owner...the 2nd owner did it a lot but was surely too late :(
Thankfully most of it is surface rust.

The lateral links will be stripped and repainted this spring, the struts are getting swapped, and I hope to be able to sand/repaint the gas tank cover.

The worse is the front subframe and LCAs though...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0221.jpg

Might have to change the subframe for a GTspec, and the LCAs are being taken off during the suspension rebuild so I should be able to strip them as well. Not sure what I'll do after I strip them though. The rest of the exhaust is also getting swapped out so that's not an issue. And then there's the oil pan. Been thinking of going AWR, but I can't justify the cost.

Will eventually get the frame looked at to see if it's something I should consider getting done. Anything else I should consider??

[Mike_Moss]

Which lower tie bar is that?

[CulRidr]

GTspec, powdercoated black by Brach (aka Medieval), then repainted grey by me...stupid ice all over the sidestreets shredded the paint though.

P.S.: Considering the car has over 178,000kms on it, the rust issue isn't THAT bad wouldn't you think?

[raghtal]

Nice. Did you pick these up from the dealer? If s how much do they cost? Direct replacement over the stock nozzles?

Nice video. Like the DaveB ring install video too. Too bad those are so hard to find these days...

[CulRidr]

you missed a couple of sales on the US forum. I picked one up for a local member.

[CulRidr]

Bearing install...the 36mm nut was a MONSTER, but we got it all done in about 1hours work.
Before:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_0236.jpg

After:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_0237.jpg

[CulRidr]

OMG STFU-endlinks mod! 10$ worth of grommets and longer bolts is all it took to shut them up :)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0240-1.jpg

Also put on the summer rims with the new Fuzion ZRIs (she's dirty, I know...)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0244.jpg

And a shot of her during the evening, forgetting to put the "night setting" on the camera...d'oh!

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0243.jpg

[prot3g3]

lookin good!

[KJS]

Prooo.
Like those rims and rotors.

[CulRidr]

^Thanks. Just the stock rims, painted. Not sure about the rotors; they came with the car when I bought it.
Better/cleaner shot of the wheel:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0019.jpg

[KJS]

^ Way better picture. Totally dig it.

[CulRidr]

^Better time of day with MUCH better camera (summer end of afternoon VS spring early evening, DSLR vs pocket digital)

[The Destroyer]

Looks awesome Etienne!

What kind of rotors are those? They look great.

[CulRidr]

Thanks for all the great comments above :)

I honestly don't know about the rotors though. The previous owner said he got them off of eBay...my guess is that they're Brembo blanks, but who knows if that's true, and what company slotted/drilled/plated them...
Haven't had any complaints about the braking, and whenever they're due, I've got 2 sets of KVR x-drilled rotors waiting in the basement I acquired in some sick deals...

[CulRidr]

Centrepiece of the new suspension setup:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0245.jpg

[Royson]

Now please put that on your car so I can come to Ottawa :)

[CulRidr]

Still waiting on those stupid bushings...was supposed to be 6-8 weeks, and 8 weeks was today...pigeon keeps promising an update but I've heard squat (in terms of where they are and/or updated ETAs) since the day I ordered them

[Royson]

Epic fail.
Oh well, I need 2 weeks to get the cash anyways, lol. I just had to spend what I had put aside on some bills. So in reality, it helps me :)

[CulRidr]

I'm hoping for the 1st weekend of May. Will confirm when I know what's going on with the bushings, and if my local guy whose helping is available.

[FunkRider]

Centrepiece of the new suspension setup:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0245.jpg

Pretty sure I hate you now :p

[CulRidr]

^lol! :D

[CulRidr]

Some updates...nothing big, until 2 weeks from now when the suspension project will be completed :)

[CulRidr]

Today is the big day...pictures tonight or tomorrow when it's done! http://themazdaforum.com/images/smilies/smiliesmf/cabpatch.gif

[Royson]

Sweet, I can't wait to see this car in person!

[CulRidr]

Suspension swap is complete, and project Stiff will be done tomorrow (forget to bring the brackets for the rear strut bar so that wasn't installed unfortunately).
Everything went REALLY well with no hickup whatsoever (except accidentally installing the front ones on the wrong side, which set us back 15minutes or so...). Took about 30 minutes of work to get the front endlinks off, and everything else was pretty easy considering how much work needed to be done.


http://lh6.ggpht.com/mathieubrazeau/SDEMgfJHHLI/AAAAAAAAAdA/NTSXMukk9rg/IMG_0193.jpg?imgmax=512

http://lh5.ggpht.com/mathieubrazeau/SDEMdPJHHHI/AAAAAAAAAcg/avwCapcXZXk/IMG_0223.jpg?imgmax=512

http://lh6.ggpht.com/mathieubrazeau/SDEMcfJHHGI/AAAAAAAAAcY/cV5ULyY14uQ/IMG_0227.jpg?imgmax=720
http://picasaweb.google.com/mathieubrazeau/MP3Suspension/photo#5201952796844694706 (http://picasaweb.google.com/mathieubrazeau/MP3Suspension/photo#5201952796844694706)

[Royson]

Sweet, so since you're such a pro at this now, lets just go ahead and install my struts and sway bar next weekend when I'm down ;)

[maztenzin]

great job...!

[The Destroyer]

Looks awesome Etienne! Hows the beast handle now? Must be amazing!

And Roy I don't think he'll want to be installing any sway bar's for you. :p

[CulRidr]

Thanks guys...!
She's always handled great, now she just handles a shade better, and more controlled with less bounce.

As for the installation, there actually is a small possibility of it happening, but that depends entirely on the availability of the guy who helped me yesterday...

[Royson]

Hey
That's be fantastic! If not, I've got my buddy and maybe 1 or 2 others to help me on Sunday when I get back :) I'll throw my springs and rear sway in the trunk incase though :)

[CulRidr]

Installed the Shaun Darbie shift/ebrake boots I'd been waiting for a while...pix up later :)

Newest engine bay shot:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0372.jpg

Leather boots:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_0369.jpg

[CulRidr]

So the MPI got installed last week, but my laptop got corrupted so no tune on it yet...hopefully quite soon!

And my first AutoX event is this weekend, but I need to fix a rear caliper which is screeching/vibrating like crazy since I did some lubing a couple of weeks ago...

[Spin_E!]

Congrats on the progress...... I've been working so much I've made 0 progress thus far.

Good luck with your first event dude!

[CulRidr]

^Thanks man, I'm looking forward to it!
I haven't made much progress in the last month though because I've had so much personal shit on my plate it's not even funny. I haven't even had the time to prep the parts I want painted...like the grill for example.

[Spin_E!]

I hear ya about the personal shit!!!! I used to have time to work on the car and forget about the personal shit but I'm not so lucky over the passed few months.

But keep up the work, sounds like you're building a killer MP3!

[CulRidr]

^I hear ya; going through a breakup of a relationship of near 2 years will do that to you (meaning me).
Thanks again for the compliments...you'll see it at TSC in a couple of weeks!

[FunkRider]

http://lh5.ggpht.com/mathieubrazeau/SDEMdPJHHHI/AAAAAAAAAcg/avwCapcXZXk/IMG_0223.jpg?imgmax=512


http://picasaweb.google.com/mathieubrazeau/MP3Suspension/photo#5201952796844694706 (http://picasaweb.google.com/mathieubrazeau/MP3Suspension/photo#5201952796844694706)

P.S. I still hate you! :P :)

[CulRidr]

^LOLOL...at least be comforted by the fact that it's going to good use starting tomorrow :)

[CulRidr]

Haven't had the time to do much to the car at all in the last month. A couple of small things have progressed, like sourcing out a 2003 centre console. However I did take a big step back (looks-wise) the other day with a little incident I had with a stucco wall...SO not impressed with myself for that one as it was entirely my fault getting distracted as I was backing up:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1391.jpg

[nautical_lifens]

oh thats rude....

[prot3g3]

ouch that really sucks about the wall!

did it scrape the paint off? or is that just the white from the stucco?

[CulRidr]

It's pretty badly scraped...Thankfully I can wait to repair the bumper, lip and tail light, but I need to be quick with the quarter panel before it rusts as some bare metal is exposed right now...

[CulRidr]

Corksport J-pipe, MAM midpipe, NGK AFX wideband are all installed now. If only the MPI would hold a tune above half-throttle. She's running really lean at cruising speed, but rather rich at open throttle (~10.5-11)...
Need to do some more reading.
The gauges were about to be put in as well, but we couldn't get the bloody oil filter off, so we couldn't get that done. Next time.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1401.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1402.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1403.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1405.jpg

[dead_cactus]

The gauges were about to be put in as well, but we couldn't get the bloody oil filter off, so we couldn't get that done. Next time.



I like what you have done.

I had a hard time removing the filter on my old car, punched a screwdriver through the filter and it was off in seconds.

[CulRidr]

I like what you have done.

I had a hard time removing the filter on my old car, punched a screwdriver through the filter and it was off in seconds.

Thanks (anything in particular?)! Also, it wasn't all me that did the work, I was more helping my friend then anything else, well, yesterday anyway.

As for the filter, we would have done that had we had an extra one laying around, or had access to a store that was still open who would have one...
I've got a K&N, but thinking of going back to OEM or Mobil1...

[prot3g3]

notice any gains with the j pipe and mid pipe?

[CulRidr]

Well it's hard to judge really because I had installed the MPI a couple of weeks ago, and the tune that was on there from the previous owner was really rich compared to stock, and I had not run the car much since, especially at WOT. We only did a few WOT runs on a flat stretch, and it seemed to pull maybe a bit more, but nothing really noticeable. I'd probably feel a good bit of difference if I punched the 1st cat, but I haven't decided whether I'm doing that yet or not, seeing as my friend said it was still in good condition.
If I were to have compared it from stock ECU/RB catback to stock ECU/full exhaust, I may have noticed a bit more.

Unfortunately, no dyno for before/after, so I just hope I start feeling a bit of difference when I start leaning out up top...

[Kansei]

OEM or Mobil1...

I've heard hte K&N is a Mobil1 filter with some paint and a nut welded on the end

OEM ones are great though, never had any trouble with them (or pureone or denso or MANN for that matter).

[MSP-D]

are there any specific tools that can be used to get the oil filter off easily?

I sometimes have trouble getting it off as well, when doing oil changes

[prot3g3]

you can buy these things that go around the oil filter, and when you turn the handle it tightens up against the filter.

[dead_cactus]

I've heard hte K&N is a Mobil1 filter with some paint and a nut welded on the end

OEM ones are great though, never had any trouble with them (or pureone or denso or MANN for that matter).

I've heard the same about the K&N. I've got a link about it somewhere at home.

[dead_cactus]

are there any specific tools that can be used to get the oil filter off easily?

I sometimes have trouble getting it off as well, when doing oil changes

Try the K&N filter, its got a nut welded on the bottom. I've got a case of them if your looking to try it out.

[quanttrom]

well it's not a nut, it looks like a nut tho. I installed one on my car this weekend. it looked exactly like this
http://www.mmmiata.com/mm033-k2%2006-07%20K&n.jpg

[dead_cactus]

well it's not a nut, it looks like a nut tho. I installed one on my car this weekend. it looked exactly like this
http://www.mmmiata.com/mm033-k2%2006-07%20K&n.jpg

Its close enough that I call it a nut :p

After a bit of searching online I found the link I was talking about earlier regarding the K&N and Mobil 1 filters.

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/opinions.html

[Mike_Moss]

Nice mid-pipe...is the rest of the exhaust stock after that?

[CulRidr]

I was using a K&N (and still am, until I can get it off). I've never had a problem with them, but we're pretty sure the guy who put it on last time (I don't have a place to do my own, so have to get it done by someone else) forgot to oil the seal, so that would explain why it's so tight.

Nice mid-pipe...is the rest of the exhaust stock after that?
Thanks :)
And no, it's a full Racing Beat catback (I'd show the picture which you've seen, but you'd comment on all the rust I have under there...lol :o)
Right now what I need to do is get back under there and bend the hangers on the midpipe, because as you can probably see, it's being pulled up into the body, and hitting the heat shield.

[Mike_Moss]

haha, now I remember the photo. Thanks for reminding me.

Mine was touching slightly sometimes on the heat shield, I bent the heat shield out of the way a bit and made some room. Than again, I didn't want my exhaust sitting any lower, it was low enough at that point.

I am back to the stock exhaust, but a mid-pipe wouldn't hurt I don't think.

[CulRidr]

I figured you would :)
I've already bent the heat shield a lot to get it out of the way of my short shifter (I actually think my shifter is hitting it again from the exhaust pushing up on it...). Too bad I didn't notice the other day when I was under there in a nice garage...oh well :p

[MSP-D]

Try the K&N filter, its got a nut welded on the bottom. I've got a case of them if your looking to try it out.

thanks for the offer, I'll keep that in mind next time I change my oil :)

[CulRidr]

Not much to update unfortunately, but I figured I'd put up a picture of some of the action the "new" suspension is having :)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Aug09-08_AutoX.jpg

[CulRidr]

So tomorrow is going to be a big day. I've had some engine problems this past weekend (which was narrowed down to a melted coil, hopefully nothing else). While the car is at the shop, I'll have them do a full 96,000km inspection (minus the obvious stuff which all of us do on a regular basis). While they are doing that, here is a list of other stuff being done:

Timing belt job (I am only 10,000kms away from being “due”) including water pump.
Since I’m doing the timing belt job, I’m getting the full Medieval pulley set (lightweight crank, PS, alt and WP), as well as the JDM intake cam with a proper valve clearance check (part of the 96,000km maintenance schedule)
Since I’m doing the water pump, I’m doing a coolant flush, and having the Samco hoses installed
Oil will be changed due to the fuel being in there, and since that’s being done, I’ll have my oil sandwich installed for the oil pressure/temp gauges I’ll also have installed
The block will be tapped so that the water temp sensor (and gauge) can be installed.
My shorty header was never properly welded to fix a design flaw in the collector, and has again sprung a leak after having been done once before. This shop is known to do great welding (they welded the bung on my j-pipe, and it was flawless), so that will also get done, as well as getting it wrapped.
And since they'll have it open, I have an extra valve cover so I'll sand and paint it tonight so they can install it when they are all done.

[CrazyCaker]

The block will be tapped so that the water temp sensor (and gauge) can be installed.

Why do you have to tap the block for this? You can simply use the upper heater core hose and splice it into there.

[CulRidr]

Why do you have to tap the block for this? You can simply use the upper heater core hose and splice it into there.
Guy at the shop suggested it. Since I didn't have the parts to tap the sensor into the hose, it's just easier that way. He's not charging me much to tap into the block, and it keeps my hoses intact for whenever I'll be parting out the car after I'm done driving it into the ground...and it will make for a cleaner install as well.
The last 2 points aren't exactly important, but I figured I'd mention them anyway :P

Edit: I should clarify that the guy would be tapping a spot on the head (not the block) next to where all the coolant hoses meet on the driver side.

[CulRidr]

Well the valve cover is now painted, and I'll install it when I get the car back (would have dropped it off with the car, but hadn't prepped it in time to get it ready since the shop could take me faster then I expected):

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1433.jpg

[dead_cactus]

^^ That looks awesome. Good work.

[CulRidr]

^Thanks! :)
I'm really hoping it lasts a little while though as the base paint is high temp, but the textured paint is not.
I must admit I was quite happy with the final result considering how little work it actually took to get it that way:

Sanded off all the thick deposits
Used a heavy engine degreaser and let it sit for a good 20 minutes to get the rest of the grime off
Hosed off the valve cover and let it dry (to notice how incredibly well the degreaser worked)
Taped off the threads, oil cap, PCV valve entrance, coil pack "holes", and crank timing sensor spot
painted 3 coats of high temp paint (500*F I think), followed by 3 coats of the textured paint (both Duplicolor)

[CulRidr]

Update from the shop:
Everything is installed except for the shifter bushings, the oil still needs to be changed, and I just need to figure out how to tell them to wire the switch for my gauges. Then they test the wiring to see if the MPI really was the reason for the coils frying, and I'm good to go :)

[MSP-D]

with your current suspension set up, what settings do you use when you go to the auto x events?

[CulRidr]

Full damping on all the struts (4 in the front and 5 in the back). I use 3 and 4 on the road (any less then that and it's too bouncy).
I'm honestly not sure if that's the best setting or not as I'm still a novice. I'll be talking to some of the veterans at this weekends race to see what they think I should do (if anything) to improve my lap times.

[MSP-D]

hmmm interesting, I used 4 & 4 at a lapping event and found that during higher speed corners (while off throtle) the back end had quite a bit of movement to it, so I never tried the 4 & 5 setting. But that might also have to do with the fact that I had some extremely worn out tires at the back, compared to the front.

I have it set up as 2 & 2 on the street and didn't find it bouncy at all ( although I know at that setting its probably under-damped)

[CulRidr]

our roads here are terrible so 2 and 2 is unfathomable. As for the rear end, it is VERY tail happy so I'll probably bring it down to 4&4...maybe even 4&3 for a lap or two to try.

[CulRidr]

No pix yet because I want to give my car a nice bath first (inside, in the engine bay and outside), but I do have the car back...

Final list of things that was done to the car, all for just under a grand with taxes:

Timing belt job including water pump.
Full Medieval pulley set install (lightweight crank, PS, alt and WP)
JDM intake cam with a proper valve clearance check and new cam seals
Coolant flush with Samco hoses installed, and tapped thermostat for water temp gauge
Oil change with oil sandwich installation for the oil pressure/temp gauges I’ll also have installed
Shorty header rewelded and heat wrapped
Gauges installed
Valve cover swapped
Nyloil bushings install
Handbrake inspection/repair
Full front end inspection (steering/suspension) and overall checkup of the car as part of the "96,000km inspection"

Car runs quite well, seems to be a little more pull at lower RPMs, and haven't had much of a chance to see the difference from the intake cam (which should be minor). Looking forward to AutoX on Sunday even if they are announcing rain...

[Mike_Moss]

Why was your car in the shop?

[CulRidr]

Melted a coil from putting in the wrong tune on the MPI, but only noticed it (the burnt coil, I thought it was something MUCH more serious as I couldn't figure out why my car was acting so shittily, with no torque, etc., etc.) when I got to the shop. Figured I'd get them to install all the crap I'd had laying around for a while, and get them to do the stuff from the maintenance schedule while they were at it.

[CulRidr]

Here are some pictures:

Engine Bay
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1437.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1438.jpg

Water temp probe:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1439.jpg

Interior:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1436.jpg

And the latest "safety" mod:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1440.jpg

[CulRidr]

Tomorrow is another day I've been waiting for a while: Doing a refinishing job on the headlights, the Techone 5K Bi-Xe kit goes in, and the Xpel headlight covers go on...pics to come :)

[The Destroyer]

Is your check engine light on Etienne? :p

Engine bay and everything looks really good! I really need to get my whole car detailed next spring. Would actually like to open up the bay during meets and such. Really like seeing all your progress with pics. Great work!

[CulRidr]

Is your check engine light on Etienne? :p

Engine bay and everything looks really good! I really need to get my whole car detailed next spring. Would actually like to open up the bay during meets and such. Really like seeing all your progress with pics. Great work!

The engine wasn't actually running (as can be told by the lack of oil pressure on the gauge on the right) so the CEL HAD to be on for the pic, but I DO have a CEL from the car running a little on the lean side due to the present tune I have with the MPI (kind of annoying, but what are you going to do...).

Thanks for all the compliments! Detailing the car doesn't take THAT much effort; the engine bay for example only used 3 things: rags from those blue rolls you find at CT and Partsource, Stoner's trim shine for anything that was black, and a little elbow grease. The interior is easy, and everyone should know how to properly wash their car.
Speaking of which, I'll have to put on a layer of hard wax before the cold weather comes...

[The Destroyer]

The engine wasn't actually running (as can be told by the lack of oil pressure on the gauge on the right) so the CEL HAD to be on for the pic, but I DO have a CEL from the car running a little on the lean side due to the present tune I have with the MPI (kind of annoying, but what are you going to do...).
No problem! Ya I really need to get the grime off next spring one day. No point now with winter coming.

For the CEL, I just couldn't tell from where the pic was taken as the steering wheel's in the way. :p Good stuff. This thing is quite the model for others to follow. Now, where can I find an MP3 with a MSP turbo in it? Hehe

[CulRidr]

Does it have to be an MSP turbo?
You could have bought this one (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123683161)...

And that was a pretty big compliment you gave me...THANKS!

BTW, here are the latest "toys"...for next season's AutoX (still need tires though):

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1448.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1458.jpg

[Keegz]

I just picked mine up the other day, and it was ~28$/pair at the stealership, and yes they are a direct replacement; no fitment issues. Only hiccup with it is that us Canadians have to deal with the hood heatshield to remove the nozzles, whereas the americans don't.


Got mine from the wreckers for free.

[The Destroyer]

Does it have to be an MSP turbo?
You could have bought this one (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123683161)...
Omg, thats quite an impressive MP3!

Not a huge fan of yellow though. It'd have to be in a nice MP3 (or US MSP) blue or titanium. Oh well I'll stay patient and enjoy the P5. Still everytime I see an MP3, I wish I went that route.

[dead_cactus]

^^ I thought that MP3 was being raffled off??

[prot3g3]

it was, but they didnt get enough interest, so everyones tickets were refunded and now its still for sale!!

[CulRidr]

More updates to the 1st post...and pictures of some of yesterday's work. For the headlight refinishing pix, see here (http://www.toprotege.com/forums/showpost.php?p=605035&postcount=54).

Latest engine bay pix (painted ADP and radiator brackets, and HIDs installed, although you won't notice anything different)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1483.jpg

Refinished headlights
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1473.jpg

HIDs!
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1460.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1477.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1481.jpg

[AKRISONER]

whicked job on the headlights, what kind of polish did you use, ive got all the sandpaper and compound, cause I installed HID's and the plastic looks like shitter.

[CulRidr]

I used Meguiar's #9, and then PlastX.
The job looks good in those pix, and I redid it and it looks even better now, but it's still nowhere near what I want them to be. I need to pick up a proper wheel to get rid of those last scratches...I'll update that hopefully within a week or so.

[CulRidr]

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1494.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1491.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1492.jpg

[CulRidr]

Latest shot:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/EliteMazdaShot.jpg

[Shasta]

^ Trailer queen,,lol..

Looks good, is that a recent shot?

[CulRidr]

Taken in October at our local sponsor dealership...she's been in winter mode for 2 months now unfortunately...

[Shasta]

And what do you drive in the winter?

[dead_cactus]

And what do you drive in the winter?

I'm assuming the Pro as he mentioned its in "winter mode".

[CulRidr]

^bingo :)
But it will probably be its last winter though as I'm planning on getting a cheap beater next winter...

[Shasta]

Oh I thought you meant winter mode as in it was garaged. Enjoy it all year then when you wear it out, buy another and start again. Theres nothing more reassuring than knowing your driving a reliable car in the winter. But of course it all depends on your plans for the car. I doubt your car was not driven in the winters anyway from the other owner and if thats what it looks like now, it will be stellar for years to come, beautiful condition. I like that front lip, I'm going to add that to mine.

[Royson]

Latest shot:


Such a sexy car. I want to paint my car after my interior swap.

[CulRidr]

Oh I thought you meant winter mode as in it was garaged. Enjoy it all year then when you wear it out, buy another and start again. Theres nothing more reassuring than knowing your driving a reliable car in the winter. But of course it all depends on your plans for the car. I doubt your car was not driven in the winters anyway from the other owner and if thats what it looks like now, it will be stellar for years to come, beautiful condition. I like that front lip, I'm going to add that to mine.
I REALLY like this car, and I want it to last as long as possible (yes it was driven many winters before). It does have a fair amount of rust on the frame under the car, and it was my plan to do a big job of removing it this summer, but that didn't work out so well (never got a chance with some big life changes). Miles are starting to rack up (186,XXX), but I'd like to bring it to 3XX,XXX if possible. A lot of major work has been done and I don't see any future problems with it at any point in the next couple of years (knock on wood). So here's hoping :)
You can get some really good deals in town on "beaters" at local auctions, so that's what I will be gunning for next year.

As for the lip, do you mean the wind splitter?

Such a sexy car. I want to paint my car after my interior swap.
Thanks :)

[CulRidr]

Looks like audio will be a big plan for the spring. Got a "new" HU in the mail (MSP one since my MP3 has always had display issues that has really been bugging me), a new set of Excelon component speakers on eBay, a small amp to power them, and most likely a big sound deadening job if I can muster the cash to buy it online.
Some other plans:
Install the auto-dimming compass mirror bought from Shasta
Looking into getting some new control arms (with stiffer bushings) Not going to happen for financial reasons, at least for now.
Installing the trunk cage bought from dead_cactus
MSP front brake upgrade
Changing my front passenger side hub assembly (failing bearing)
Various maintenance (rust, repair of bumper, etc.)

[dead_cactus]

IIRC Solo has a set of MSP calipers if your looking to do the upgrade.

[CulRidr]

^yup, but I need brackets, rotors and pads...I have 2 possible sources for all parts, however both are rather unsure about selling as of now.
Thanks for the tip though :)

[CulRidr]

Bump for updates to 1st post :)

[CrazyCaker]

Install Nyloil bushings (still trying to get the damn bolt out)

Easy... air hammer w/ a punch bit. Done it a few times, works everytime on that rusted POS bolt.

[CulRidr]

Should have deleted the text in parentheses seeing as that was fixed in September :P
Thanks for pointing that out though --> updated :)

[CulRidr]

Another bump.

The engine is getting rebuilt, and the MSP front brake upgrade will happen this spring :)

[CulRidr]

Jeff's old trunk cage...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1545.jpg

[dead_cactus]

Looks awesome :)

[CulRidr]

So as some of you have read, I'm getting the engine rebuilt. Here is the latest list of things getting installed/done

- Engine overbore by 0.5mm
- Full block cleaning (to finally get rid of all that surface rust)
- Crankshaft cleaning/polishing
- Full rotating assembly balancing
- Twiggy bump sticks (bought, will be shipped soon)
- Decked, P&P'd and 3-angle valve job'd head with a slight amount of work in the combustion chamber.
- Full rebuild kit (bought, will be shipped soon)
- 10.4:1 pistons (bought, will be shipped soon)
- cam gears from Focus' GB (being fabricated)
- the full Medieval pulley set I already have (installed)
- full Medeival motor mount set from Joe (bought )
- Fidanza flywheel (bought, shipped)
- Exedy MSP-spec clutch (bought, will be picked up soon)
- Custom long tube 4-2-1 geader (bought, will be shipped soon)
- AWR deep sump oil pan (bought, will be shipped soon)

[Royson]

The 4-2-1 header, can you tell me about that?

I've got a rusting J pipe, and I'm considering the header route. Everything I've read suggests a 4-2-1 is what I want, over a 4-to-1, but they are impossible to find (unless I want to dump 900 bucks on a AutoExe, lol)

If I'm going to dump money into fixing the pipe, then having to deal with O2 bung, blah, blah, I'm going to get the right header.

[CulRidr]

the one I'm getting is completely custom (just search for FS threads from toy_soldier...I'm lazy :P). 4-2-1, properly designed helps keep as much torque as possible while not affecting peak HP. A 4-1 is geared towards peak HP, but you need something like the Ractive (as cheaply made as it is) VS an OBX whose primaries are too short.

[CulRidr]

For my build, I have a lead on a head with everything I need...may also go with an LSD, and possibly a 5th gear swap (same one NSN sells, but for cheaper) if I can get the right price.

[Royson]

Ahhh, I see that for sale ad now. Dang, was hoping you'd found somebody who was making them.

Oh well, I'll keep looking around :)

[CulRidr]

Not so much, and I got it for way too cheap considering how much it probably cost to make. Then again, I'll use all the savings I can get!

[Royson]

Yeah, your build must be costing a fortune. That'll be one zippy car when its all together. Considering how it handled on our little drive around Ottawa last year, I'm certain it'll be a lot of fun soon!

[CulRidr]

About 10 large when it's all done, which is what I paid for the car, and about what I already put into it since I bought it...so ya, a lot!

[CulRidr]

Mmmm, header goodness:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1630.jpg

[prot3g3]

^ Lucky!!

[Royson]

I want!

Deciding what to do for my exhaust is bugging me. Its also bugging me I'm keeping ring clamps in my car incase my j-pipe flange fails before I make up my mind.

I want to see some AutoX video's of this car in action when its all done, it should handle really well out there.

[00bluees]

very nice dude. :yes: swap for ractive?? LOL :lol:

[CulRidr]

MSP brake upgrade happened yesterday :)
Those Hawk brake pads are AWESOME!
I'll take a before and after pic of the difference in brake size when I get a good after shot with my DD wheels...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1647.jpg

Brakes installed within the new Kosei 15" wheels...talk about close fitment :)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1652.jpg

[Mike_Moss]

Notice any negative effects from the brake upgrade?

Not doing the rear?

I ask because I have the full swap waiting to be done, but I'm waiting until my current brakes are toast.

[CulRidr]

No point in doing the rear MSP; would need to have rear calipers to start, and then buy new pads and rotors, and considering the rears do 20% of the work, you'd be hardpressed to feel it, although it would look better :rolleyes: (I did it because I got the front calipers for so cheap). The difference in rotor size for the rear is what, ½"? I know the fronts are only ¾" bigger but between that and bigger pads, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! My DD tires (Fuzion ZRIs) aren't good enough for these when mashing on the brakes...

Negative effect? More whiplash for the passengers if I stomp on the brakes :P

Oh, and you want to see toast? Rotor of shame (both my front ones looked like that) :eek:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1648.jpg

[FunkRider]

Mmmm, header goodness:



Hopefully you won't have o2 sensor delay issues like I did. You will LOVE what it does to power at all parts of the rev range though.

[CulRidr]

^what type of delays are you talking about specifically?
And I have no doubt. The car has been kinda "lame" recently, and I saw today why. No pictures, but essentially a good chunk of my 1st cat was destroyed...(went to the shop to pick up my car, but they had a couple of setbacks so it will be tomorrow... one thing was that that header didn't fit 100%; it hits my shifter rod (the one that doesn't go in the shifter, and has the Kartboys in it)).

[Mike_Moss]

The point of doing the full swap would be to still have balanced braking.

The MP3 doesn't have brake force distribution or ABS. The absolute last thing I want to do is ***k with the proportioning. (Ever see how a car drives w/too much rear bias? Not cool.)

I'm hoping that because the MP3 is a straight forward and simple braking system, I can get away with doing the full MSP swap at all four corners. At that point, the only issues would be if the master cylinder can keep up.

That is why I'm curious to know if you've noticed any negative differences in the swap. In specific, I was wondering about bias (balance), pedal feel, and pedal force.

Yes, you can dumb down the point of larger brakes to friction surface, but you cannot neglect the gain in thermal capacity. Drive your car hard for a few back to back laps and this is really the only thing you'd be worrying about.

The stock MP3/Protege5 brakes are excellent for light-duty track use, autocross and street driving but they heat soak quite quickly.

For the record, I never had any braking issues other than on a track after a number of hard laps and/or until I increased power. Tires, pads, rotors and fluid go a long way for spirited driving, autocross and light track duty (Solo I/lapping).
No point in doing the rear MSP; would need to have rear calipers to start, and then buy new pads and rotors, and considering the rears do 20% of the work, you'd be hardpressed to feel it, although it would look better :rolleyes: (I did it because I got the front calipers for so cheap). The difference in rotor size for the rear is what, ½"? I know the fronts are only ¾" bigger but between that and bigger pads, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! My DD tires (Fuzion ZRIs) aren't good enough for these when mashing on the brakes...

Negative effect? More whiplash for the passengers if I stomp on the brakes :P

Oh, and you want to see toast? Rotor of shame (both my front ones looked like that) :eek:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1648.jpg

[CulRidr]

I haven't done enough driving to be able to comment on all you mentioned. Pedal feel is the same though (great feeling with SS lines), I've noticed some difference in terms of how I apply the brake pedal due to the different braking compound, but I don't have to apply more force. I'll be honest I'm not experienced enough to be able to comment on brake bias.

As for the master cylinder, that's a toss up, sorta, but many people have run BBKs without upgrading the MC, so although the MSP had a different one IIRC, I don't believe you would need it...your call on that one...
And yes you are right having more thermal capacity is great, but you're not going to gain much out of the rear MSP brakes though considering the total size difference (rather small), and how little they do in comparison with the fronts.
The point of doing the full swap would be to still have balanced braking.

The MP3 doesn't have brake force distribution or ABS. The absolute last thing I want to do is ***k with the proportioning. (Ever see how a car drives w/too much rear bias? Not cool.)

I'm hoping that because the MP3 is a straight forward and simple braking system, I can get away with doing the full MSP swap at all four corners. At that point, the only issues would be if the master cylinder can keep up.

That is why I'm curious to know if you've noticed any negative differences in the swap. In specific, I was wondering about bias (balance), pedal feel, and pedal force.

Yes, you can dumb down the point of larger brakes to friction surface, but you cannot neglect the gain in thermal capacity. Drive your car hard for a few back to back laps and this is really the only thing you'd be worrying about.

The stock MP3/Protege5 brakes are excellent for light-duty track use, autocross and street driving but they heat soak quite quickly.

For the record, I never had any braking issues other than on a track after a number of hard laps and/or until I increased power. Tires, pads, rotors and fluid go a long way for spirited driving, autocross and light track duty (Solo I/lapping).

[Brian MP5T]

When the manifold was made, the designer of the manifold should have precisely measured out the distance between the first and second O2 sensor and then recreated that distance exactly.. I think that is what people are trying to say about he O2 Lag thing.

[CulRidr]

When the manifold was made, the designer of the manifold should have precisely measured out the distance between the first and second O2 sensor and then recreated that distance exactly.. I think that is what people are trying to say about he O2 Lag thing. Ah I see, that makes sense. I should be OK then because after talking to the guy doing the work, we decided to put the stock sensors just before and after the cat in my custom midpipe, so that distance will be very close to "stock". The only thing that may not be optimal about the setup is that the 1st O2 sensor is quite far from the cylinder head, so I honestly don't know if the temperature of the exhaust will be affecting how the sensors function or not...
Thanks for the input :)

[Brian MP5T]

A WBO2 does not take the heat as well as a Stock NBO2.

If you place it too close it will burn out very quick. It should be at least 18" from the nearest valve.

A NBO2 on the other hand can be close as I said. You can see how close by looking at it's stock location directly in the stock cast manifold.

I do not think you are requiring them because you are on an MPI...

[CulRidr]

My WB will be at the end of the header you saw this weekend (at the 2-1 collector). The 2 NB are going after that...so no heat related issues, unless they need to be heated up quickly for whatever reason...

[Brian MP5T]

The First NBO2 should be really close to engine, the second should be at the same distance apart as they were stock.. They are designed to check each other. One reads the AFR and within a calibrated time period, the other should read the same (It also measures how well the 1st Cat works). This prevents the CEL from coming on. If the O2 sensors do not fall in this tolerance, Mazda has programmed the ECU to know that one O2 sensor must be defective, trigger a CEL and engage a Limp Mode after a period of time.

The reason they must be close to the engine is "Reaction Time". If you put the sensor far away, how the hell is the motor supposed to react to rising and falling AFR. It will constantly be too late and the AFR will never really settle close. They will be wandering Up and Down. They will be making corrections much later than they should be and the AFR will never sit well..

All this shit is in my MP5T Build Thread on 24/7 from like 2003...

So I think unless these holes have not been cut yet, you need to get some caps and replace the holes in the correct location.

I can be a dick, but please ask about stuff like this because is really matters.

I was away and not very active on the forum, but I will always answer a PM.

[CulRidr]

Very good reply...the one problem with a header, and that is one thing you brought up when I had the shorty header, is that having the 1st NB very close to the cylinder head means you are only getting readings from one cylinder, which is no better unless your engine is always running optimally (ironically, going turbo means you don't have this issue...). I guess this is where having a standalone can help out with things, but again you still have the issue of having "lag"...any ideas?

[Brian MP5T]

Very good reply...the one problem with a header, and that is one thing you brought up when I had the shorty header, is that having the 1st NB very close to the cylinder head means you are only getting readings from one cylinder, which is no better unless your engine is always running optimally (ironically, going turbo means you don't have this issue...). I guess this is where having a standalone can help out with things, but again you still have the issue of having "lag"...any ideas?

Your Injectors fire in Batch mode. They all fire exactly the same, so unless one is defective, then the one is a very viable representation of the four.

If you had all in a collector and one injector was 50% of the flow, you would not be able to tell with an O2, because the AFR would be down only 1/8 of normal on a 4 Cylinder engine. The ECU would just bump the others to compensate and you would never know.

This is why people use an EGT. A true indicator of problems.

There is no real way to detect a shi*t injector. Except to remove them and bench flow.

They are sold as a balanced set and should work for a terribly long time unless they get fouled. They have a filter to prevent this.

People who make much more money that you and I have spent many evenings thinking about all this shit..

You STILL HAVE TO FIX IT.. No matter what reasons you put them at the back.

[CulRidr]

So in short, you're saying I should have the narrowband near the cylinder, and the 2nd not far behind (using the non-fouler trick since otherwise I'd trigger a CEL), with an EGT at a collector point, is that right?
The only issue with that is that the sensor is so big compared to the small size of the runner that flow would definitely be impeded. Ah the joys of tuning...

[Brian MP5T]

The EGT should be also very close to the Head.. Or you will get a low number.

Basically, yes. If you tune off a NB02, it should be where it is stock at the top.

If you want to compensate in the design, that pipe could be made larger to offset the flow (If you are worried about it)

Most do not bother because a 4 to 2 to 1 usually scavenges as well.

Were the runners made small for torque?


EDIT:

When I did mine, we used the area of the port on the head to decide the inner dimension of the piping. It's a Square Oval..

we compared that number with the same area for a Circle. The circular pipe, when flatened out became the exact size of the port on the head. It was flared a very small bit, welded inside and out then the entire plate was milled to be perfectly flat.


The area of an oval is found by multiplying the width (W) times the length (L), then multiplying the result by 0.8

Formula
Area = (W x L) x 0.8



http://www.flyinmiata.com/projects/OTC/images/OTC_exhaust_port.jpg

[CulRidr]

I'll be tuning using the WBO2...and ya I suppose you are right about the EGTI honestly never spoke to the guy who designed it since he sold it to someone else, from whom I bought it. It would have been nice though. My guess is that it was a compromise between torque and peak HP...

[Brian MP5T]

If you can actively tune on the WBO2 then why are they even there.

Another less than perfect, but good compromise would be to put the NBO2 in the first collector, when the 4 go to 2.

[CulRidr]

Because I'm only running a piggyback, without an O2 clamp as of yet, so the ECU still needs those readings no? And we discussed that as well, but with the runners being so long, there were only a few inches difference between putting it in the 4-2 collector VS after...

P.S.: I'd never seen your headwork...VERY nice :)

[Brian MP5T]

The further from the cylinder, the less able your ECU/Piggy/Whatever will be able to properly and actively control the AFR.

Think about it as a linear function of Delta AFR to Distance. You really can becasue.

The ECU adds a bit more fuel each sample time index until the NBO2 tells it there is too much, then it reduces fuel a bit until told to add. If the sensor is far,you can add that time to the mix. It will manifest as Lag.. It will manifest as a larger gap between the Uppermost and lower most AFR number that you will see on your display.

If you have seen a NBO2 gauge in a cluster, it bounces back and forth. It's normal.

That's the
Add, Add, Add (Too Much) Drop Drop Drop (Too Little) Add Add Add...

It works like that exactly how it is supposed to.
It works like a thermostat in a house.

Narrow Band will only tell the ECU if there is Too Much or Too Little.

The WBO2 will say by how much..

[CulRidr]

Great set of posts today Brian! Lots for me to chew on...
My car is actually ready for me to pick up (leaving in 15 minutes), and I'll let you know how it reacts. If it needs changes, well, I'll take care of it now knowing what to look for :)

[Brian MP5T]

You will probably not notice it, unless you were to compare how tight the AFR would normally be controlled.

A Sloppy AFR will rob your HP and make your EGT hotter than it has to be for nothing..

[CulRidr]

I pretty much know where my AFRs normally are, so I'll see what it looks like when I try it out over the next few days.

[CulRidr]

Header is in...first impressions are mixed. ECU is still learning for sure as the car was running way too lean to start (had to shift at 2500 to not get above 15...partially due to my previous tune I think). Car feels VERY torquey, but that could be in my mind. The throttle response is not as instantaneous, but that could be for one of 2 reasons: 1. what Brian and I discussed yesterday or 2. the powerband has moved higher up.
Due to the leanness, I didn't really punch it, but it runs well.

Tone is VERY sweet; very low grumble with NO rasp, no annoying sound. It's honestly barely any louder then my previous setup. I'll have to either have someone video tape it when I get a better tune, or have someone drive the car by me to be able to appreciate it better.

First teaser pic I took this morning (didn't have a camera with me last night):

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1653.jpg

[Brian MP5T]

Dude, All yer shit is gonna melt..

[CulRidr]

Figured I would show the subtle difference between before and after the brake upgrade, although I didn't wash the car, and the rim needs some work (have a new one in the basement to respray as this one has a lot of damage)...calipers will be back to the old faithful yellow soon:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/DSC_0049.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1660.jpg

[Brian MP5T]

Dude, I don't see a difference...

[CrazyCaker]

Dude, I don't see a difference...

+1.

[CulRidr]

10" vs 10.75"...like I said, it's subtle...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1646-1.jpg

[CulRidr]

There will be a big parts pictures update tonight before the car goes in to get torn apart tomorrow, but here is the last picture taken of the car before it's big transplant...

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9996/dsc01391179250.jpg

[CulRidr]

Here are some pix of all the parts which have been gathering in the basement:

Transmission stuff; new stock clutch, Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel, replacement 5th gear (missing a welded MSP LSD [Rev3], which will be shipped to me this week)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1666.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1663.jpg

Motor mounts
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1672.jpg

Autoexe lower tie bar
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1673.jpg

Engine stuff; "Twiggy" camshafts, AWR oil pan, partial rebuild kit, 10.4:1 FS-ZE pistons, worked head (not pictured for reasons that will be kept under wraps until the problem(s) can be worked out)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1676.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1683.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1687.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1689.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1697.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1700.jpg

[Royson]

Exciting! Should be a lot of fun when its all together.

[Azi]

dibs on the AWR oil pan :p

[Shasta]

Great items. You have a camera rig???

[kz9]

Must feel like X-mas everytime you look at all those parts....

[CulRidr]

Until I look at my credit card bill...LOL
Great items. You have a camera rig???Someone else in the club does; we had a small photoshoot this weekend.

[CulRidr]

The car now has ZERO horsepower!!

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20pix/Picture001.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20pix/Picture003.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20pix/Picture006.jpg

[Royson]

Thats what, 1.5, 2 shop hours at the dealer? lol

[CulRidr]

2 guys worked on it for a few hours (I'll ask when I go in later this week to see the progress (engine should be apart before end of day Friday...)

[Shasta]

Upgrade that front sway bar while its out.

[The Destroyer]

Upgrade that front sway bar while its out. He already has the beefy Racing Beat sway bars. What else is better?

[Shasta]

He already has the beefy Racing Beat sway bars. What else is better?

Forgot it was the MP3.:confused:

[CulRidr]

This is what happens to your suspension when it doesn't have an engine to weigh it down...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1734.jpg

[00granpagreen]

Haha my car looks the exact same right now. 2 guys wouldnt go any faster than 1, took me about an hour and a half to drop mine out. Looks like they opted to pull it out the top, sooo much easier to drop it out the bottom!

[Azi]

looks like its a nice clean shop. I like how they have blocked your car in case somebody decides to steal it =P

[dead_cactus]

You getting all this work done at the dealer? That much cost a small fortune.

[CulRidr]

I'm not complaining at 80$/hour (w/tax) ;)

[Brian MP5T]

Hey, Paul has your ECU...

[CulRidr]

Thanks Brian :)

[CulRidr]

Can't have adjustable cam gears without being able to access them. Here's what an hour's worth work resulted in...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/CopyofIMG_1747.jpg

[Shasta]

Updates??

[CulRidr]

Nothing substantial to show, but the block is done, I FINALLY got the new rods from Ken on Friday so they were sent off with the rest of the rotating assembly to get balanced. The head needed some machining since no camshaft caps were provided, a very minor mill and some valvetrain work (need to inquire as to what exactly was not perfect, but the engine builder is VERY trusted so I'm it's being done because it was needed). LSD should arrive VERY soon courtesy of Scott, although it will need machining due to unforeseen delays so the tranny should get done late this week...

[Shasta]

Are you boosting? or strictly NA?

[CulRidr]

N/a...

[Mike_Moss]

...LSD should arrive VERY soon courtesy of Scott...LSD is already at Elite Mazda as of 10am yesterday.

So are your shoes.

[CulRidr]

^Perfect! Hadn't talked to them yet so I'm glad to hear that :)

[CulRidr]

Forgot to show some of the parts that arrived in the mail last week...and here is the latest update:

I received the rest of my build kit last week, including the rods so that my rotating assembly can be balanced. The short block has already been bored and machined and is ready to go, head is coming back from some (expensive) machining to be 100% (missing camshaft caps, work on the valve guides), but will make for a very strong, healthy and well built long block.

Here are some pix...
9.1:1 VS 10.4:1 Pistons
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1757.jpg

More rebuild parts (including some extra parts I don't need); timing belt, stock piston/rods with ZERO miles, head bolts, camshaft cap bolts, oil plugs, coolant plugs, cranskshaft thrust bearings, and crankshaft/rod bearings...
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1758.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1760.jpg

******************************************************************************************************************

LSD has been shipped and is now at the dealership although it needs a bit of machining and then the transmission can get done.

Focus' custom adjustable cam gears are in the mail and will be there in time for the rebuilding of the long block.

Rotating assembly is presently being balanced

Head needed a lot of work, but it will be MINT (and ready tomorrow)! Here is the work that was done to it, even though it was low miles...
- Milled to get rid of some of those chips
- Machined so that the caps from my old head would be PERFECT with this head as it did not come with caps
- Custom machining so that the extended lift from the Twiggy's would not hit the head (may not have been a problem had the previous machining not needed to be done, but whatever, it will be perfect http://static.mazdas247.com/smilies/smile.gif)
- Valves were sniped (snipped?)
- Full valvetrain "rebuild" to be good as new with new seals from Ken's rebuild kit

[Shasta]

One hell of a build.

[CulRidr]

Transmission left the dealership to get done today with the following parts:
Welded Rev3 LSD GSY1-27-190
Speedo gear G501-17-341A
LSD Bearings G5R0-27-350B
Shaft lock nuts F520-17-628/G501-17-629A
New 5th gear (from 626) G560-17-611C/G514-17-308
Clutch release fork KL03-16-520A
Clutch release fork pin F202-16-102A
1st/2nd gear updated shift fork GC011740XB
3rd/4th gear updated shift fork G5011740YA

Only problem is that I don't have any pictures of the forks or LSD...I'll try and see if I can check out the shop before they put all the parts in so that I can have a record of all of this...

[CulRidr]

In case local people wanted their work done, here are the shops used for my build:

Engine removal/teardown/rebuild/installation: www.elitemazda.ca (http://www.elitemazda.ca/)
Longblock machining: http://www.tech3usinage.com/
Precise head machining: will need to get back on this one
Rotating assembly balancing: will need to get back on this one
Transmission work: http://ontariotransmission.com/index.php?Lang=En&ID=1

[Royson]

Whats the swap on the new fifth gear for? Is it a taller gear for lower rev's on the highway? Or was there a problem with your fifth gear?

[CulRidr]

^The former :)
If anyone has ever seen it, it's the same thing as the 5th gear NSNMotorsports sells, except it's a LOT cheaper if you know what to buy (especially at the discount rate I got with MSM).

In case I hadn't posted it, here is the reference document for all the transmission stuff being done, minus the shift fork/clutch stuff:
http://www.imazda.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2701

[CulRidr]

Other small update:
Cam gears arrived today, as has the NSN IM spacer I bought from Myk; something I always wanted for some reason (apparently it might add a shade of torque due to longer runners), so that part is also taken care of...
Things are finally starting to come together :)

[CulRidr]

Here is a bit of extra info regarding the 5th gear swap:

Here is a tool I found on iMazda...and other data found on protegeFAQ.net and iMazda...
http://www.gearboxman.co.uk/inforatios.html#download

normal 5th gear ratio is 0.755
New 5th gear (which I'm 99% sure comes from the 626) is 0.717

With the tool, speed at 3000RPM for stock is 67.6MPH
With the tool, speed at 3000RPM for "626" is 71.2MPH

Calculating the slope from those curves means that for a given speed (say, 75MPH), your RPMs would go down from 3330 to 3162, which is a 5.3% drop sustained throughout the gear, or exactly what I was anticipating...

[CulRidr]

Transmission parts pix before they get dropped in the transmission (you have seen the other parts already):

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1857.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1860.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1853.jpg

[CulRidr]

It's only been a few hours, but another update is due:

Went to Tech3 this morning to check out the shop and the work that was done. Everything was wrapped but I had a chance to take a quick look at the completed work and you can tell that the money was well "invested". The head was MINT, the block looks new, you could see the very small bits machined off of the rotating assembly following the balancing. Here is a picture of all the parts in the truck bed just before it left for Elite!

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1867.jpg

Small update on the transmission; the LSD will be machined in house to fit the speedo gear for a lot less then what I thought, so that doesn't cause any problems. The only thing that is slightly holding things up is that a small part was broken when the took it apart; the guide plate assembly, updated part# F52017480K. Everything else was in good working order and there was no indication that a rebuild or other parts were required. The transmission should be ready by Thursday, so if Elite starts to put the motor back together over the next couple of days, the key should be turned over on Friday

As for the tune, I just got off the phone with PSI Tuning and the ECU probably won't be ready for Friday, but babying the car until it has it (and is properly broken in) will be sufficient to not blow the motor.

[CulRidr]

Went to Elite at lunch to pick up some parts I'm selling off, and took a closer look at some of the parts and DAMN are they ever pretty

The block, bored. The rust is still "there", but it was acid dipped so once the block is reassembled and sealed off, a wire brush and some engine paint will make it look gorgeous!

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1883.jpg

Balanced rotating assembly (Crankshaft, rods, flywheel). Notice the very small nicks on the bottom of the rods, as well as the ONE spot on the lower left of the flywheel.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1882.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1878.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1877.jpg

Intake manifold and throttle body thermal gaskets:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1881.jpg

A first look at both sides of Focus' cam gears:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1879.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1880.jpg

The head just about ready to be dropped in once those cam gears are put on the camshafts (I forgot to take a pic of the underside of it where the little chips were seen, but that's probably a good thing seeing as the camshaft bolts weren't tightly secured and I wouldn't want to mess something up, especially since it was still partially wrapped).

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1876.jpg

And finally, a GREAT look at the port&polished intake and exhaust ports all cleaned up...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1875.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1873.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/Rebuild%20parts/IMG_1870.jpg

[Royson]

Thats a sexy pile of metal!

[dead_cactus]

Nice stuff

Why the nicks on the flywheel?

[CulRidr]

There is only one, and as stated in the text above, it was to balance it out. It's the equivalent of adding a weight to a rim.

[Shasta]

Do you have an ETA on when it will be ready to rock and roll? What are you driving in the meantime?

[CulRidr]

Within the week, and a loaner from the dealership, shown here with my AutoX wheels (bought from Dave/Brian) to spruce it up a bit while I drive it :)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/CulRidr/IMG_1848.jpg

[Brian MP5T]

I think you are stupid to post that picture on the WEB.

They lend you a car and you start to ***k with it...

[thekid]

^ At least he ran his own wheels/tires... if it can't hand a simple autoX then shame on it.

[Brian MP5T]

I think it's fine to do it, just not to flaunt it.

It's kinna ignorant to the dealer IMO..

Like Posting a video of doing 200 Km/h in a school zone, then being upset when the cops come and give you a Zillion Dollar fine and give you three years of Free Butt Sex in Prison

[CulRidr]

This is toprotege :P

[Brian MP5T]

I'm TELLING!!!!!

[CrazyCaker]

I think it's pretty funny he's autox the loaner. Good job. lol.

Oh yeah, and great looking parts! :)

[Brian MP5T]

Etien, now is a great time to remove the AC!

[Jay31]

lol... I think I had that loaner a few weeks ago when I was getting my timing belt done... does it still smell like cheap air freshner covering up cigarette smoke?

If it is, the car has a big Elite Mazda sign on the back... so I can see them not minding it doing some AutoX - free advertising...

[CulRidr]

Etien, now is a great time to remove the AC!
I am still very much debating that idea...and removing that stupid heat liner under the hood. How much did the whole thing weigh (AC), 50lbs?
And I shouldn't have to worry about the paint, even with the hood liner removed, despite not having the header ceramic coated right?
P.S.: My name is correctly spelled in my sig ;)
lol... I think I had that loaner a few weeks ago when I was getting my timing belt done... does it still smell like cheap air freshner covering up cigarette smoke?

If it is, the car has a big Elite Mazda sign on the back... so I can see them not minding it doing some AutoX - free advertising...

That would be the one, but it doesn't smell like that anymore.

[Shasta]

^ Honestly unless your building the biggest baddest, NA motor there's no real point removing that luxury of A/C.

[Brian MP5T]

1 It removed the condenser from in front of the rad.
2 It removed one pulley that robs HP.
3. It removed a lot of weight.

That's all..