starscream
August 31st, 2007, 12:13 AM
AFC Install How-To
Today i had time to actually install the SS AFC. Mines version 2 which has the extra datalogging
for WB's but those are NOT HOOKED UP. Anyhow here we go...
Materials:
You might not need all these, but I did
SS AFC
Bullet Connectors
Wire Taps
Electrical Tape
Vaccum Tubing
Vaccum T
Zip Ties
Wire Loom
SS AFC Wire Instructions (i didnt make these, another forum member did)
SS AFC Installation Insructions (comes with the AFC)
Tools:
Again you might not need all these, but I did
Philips Screwdriver
Flathead Screwdriver
Wire Strippers
Crimpers
Sissors
Knife/Utility Knife
10MM Socket and Wrench
Socket Wrench Extenders
Golves
Drill
Pliers/Robogrip
Kneepads (if your going to be on your knees alot during the install)
Few Cups/Trays/Holders (to hold screws)
Time:
Took me about 4 hours to do this.
Install:
1. Start by disconnecting your battery and turning off your Alarm (or putting it into Valet mode
or whatever) Then remove everything from your glove box, your mats and move your seat back (or if
you want to take it out completely). The ECU is on the passenger side of the car under the dash
where your feet would go.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/4.jpg
2. Remove the door sill, theres no screw on it, just pull it from one side and continue around.
Sometimes you gotta give it a good yank to get it out.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/5.jpg
3. Remove the glove box. Now theres 2 ways to do this. Remove the glove box itself OR Remove the
glove box and the glove box surround (which is what i did, made it hell of alot easier to work
under there). There are about 10 screws holding the glove box surround in. To remove the glove
box theres a pin on one side, and a C type clamp thinggy on the other. Pull the C clamp thing out
and pull to 1 side to take the pin out.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/6.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/30.jpg
4. You have to remove the kickplates on both the passenger side of the car just infront of the
door, and the passenger side near the center console. Both pull right now and have no screws
holding them in. Pull the carpet back (with the insulation) and put it to the side (like fold it
so its outta your way).
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/7.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/8.jpg
5. The ECU is mounted ON that silver metal plate that you see under the dash. Its held in by 4
10mm nuts. WEAR GLOVES the edges on that metal plate are sharp. You'll need the socket wrench
extenders for the top 2 bolts. Remove the 4 bolts and pull on the metal plate, pull firmly but
not like HE-MAN, as the ECU is mounted on that plate.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/9.jpg
6. Where the wires go into the ECU (the connector) has a 10mm nut on there... unscrew it, it wont
remove from the connector, but it allow the connector to remove from the ECU. Once thats done,
take the ECU Plate/ECU and put it somewhere safe while you work on the Harness of the car.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/11.jpg
7. Remove the top cap thats over the ECU connector (4 tabs you have to pull so it can be
removed).
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/12.jpg
8. Now look at the AFC Wire Diagram and separate out the wires you will be working on. I did that
and temporarly did a loose cable tie on the others so i dont get mixed up when i am working on
the wires. Also the diagram of the wires is if your looking at the BACK of the connector.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/14.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/15.jpg
9. Now you can prepare the wires on the AFC. I decided to make my install modular in the sense
that i can take it out whenever i need to without much work to the harness it self. I used T Taps
to tap into the wires that didnt need to but sent to the AFC Directly. For the other wires i used
bullet connectors so i can disconnect them if i ever needed to and can put them back to stock.
(Female and Male connectors were done in a specific way so that if i remove the AFC i dont have
to redo the bullet connectors on the harness). Wire those up and make sure they are a good fit
and wont pull out. Wrap some Electrical take to be on the safe side.
NOTE: you can also solder the wires in, which is probably better and a more permanent install,
but if something goes wrong its that much harder to diagonse because you cannot simply remove the
AFC easily.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/18.jpg
10. Recheck your wires and make sure you tapped and connected the right ones and that all
connections are sung
11. Run the vaccum line from the engine to your AFC. I 'T'ed into the line that goes to the BPV.
I then ran the vac hose from there to where the main engine harness goes thru the firewall but i
couldnt get it through with all the other wires. So i took the drill and make a small hole on the
end of the rubber fitting (was 'dead' area there, no wires going through there). I ran the vac
line though there and to the AFC.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/20.jpg
12. Recheck your Vaccum lines that you 'T'ed into and make sure they are all one and your line
going to the AFC is not kinked or ripped or anything.
13. Once you have everything hooked up and its all checked. Do a test. Reconnect the battery and
fire up the car. If all is well lets go to the next step. If your shit dont work, check the
wiring and make sure all the connections are good and go from there.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/21.jpg
14. Now were gonna start putting the car back together and mount the AFC. I had some wire looming
stuff that i had used to make the wires for the AFC neat. The foil one that i used has fiberglass
inside. Apparently that looming is supposed to reflect other signals, and have heat reducing
properties. Make the wires going to the ECU neat. Wrap them up, and also wrap up part of the main
harness too (i did it with some electrical tape since the other loom wasnt big enough)
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/22.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/25.jpg
15. Connect the Harness back to the ECU and mount the ECU plate back. Careful not the cut/rip any
wires. Maybe a bit of a tight fit because youve added some wires. Just play with it abit to see
what works best. Once you bolt back up the ECU plate and all that. Start to put the carpet back.
Also at this point make your wires to the AFC Neat and tidy.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/26.jpg
16. I mounted my AFC in the glove box. I wanted it there so i can have easy access to the unit
and also the the Serial port to connect it to my laptop. I did a easy install in the glove box. I
basically drilled 3 small holes.. 2 for the holes that match up to the AFC mounting and 1 extra
that goes further in the glove box (near the 2nd hole for the mounting). Mount the glovebox back
up after drilling the holes. I used zip ties and tied the AFC in place and its pretty snug in
there. Doesnt move around at all. Then run your wires through the top. Make sure you tie it or
whatever in place so the wires dont get tangled when the glove box closes and the vav line doesnt
get pinched.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/31.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/32.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/36.jpg
17. Once your all done that, do 1 more test run. Fire up the car. If you have a problem back
track, chances are you cut/pulled/ripped a wire or something when putting everything back
together. If it works and everything is good, then button everything else up. Put the kickplates
back on. The door sills. And your all set!
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/37.jpg
18. Go for a boot, have fun, and enjoy Tuning!
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/41.jpg
IMPRESSIONS:
Currently the car is stock and all i did was add the AFC. Theres a BIG difference in the way the
car drives now. Theres a slight noticeably increse in power (buttdyno!, but will be going to a
real one soon), but the bigger improvement stock is the drivability of the car. Theres more 'pep'
to her throughout the whole powerband. She stutters less, easier to drive, no hesitation anywhere
and this is with the preloaded stock supermap! I totally recommend this to anyone!
NOTES:
Originally Posted by DSMConvert
Ok under the options drop down menu the settings should be selected as follows for each category:
System Settings:
Vacuum/Pressure
Programmable Signal Calibrator
Engine Settings:
4 Cylinders
4 Stroke
Output Settings:
Pressure 0 to 30psi
Dont worry about output A
Output B: Over RPM OR Pressure (technically can be just the over pressure selection, but the rpm
gives a safety zone incase you develope a severe boost leak)
Over RPM: 6000
Over Pressure: -1
Dont worry about the rest
You must do these in this order, otherwise the values wont be correct, ie -1 at vac/pressure is
complete different from -1 at absolute...
AFC INSTALL SHEETS:
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/afcinstruction.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/afcwires.jpg
Today i had time to actually install the SS AFC. Mines version 2 which has the extra datalogging
for WB's but those are NOT HOOKED UP. Anyhow here we go...
Materials:
You might not need all these, but I did
SS AFC
Bullet Connectors
Wire Taps
Electrical Tape
Vaccum Tubing
Vaccum T
Zip Ties
Wire Loom
SS AFC Wire Instructions (i didnt make these, another forum member did)
SS AFC Installation Insructions (comes with the AFC)
Tools:
Again you might not need all these, but I did
Philips Screwdriver
Flathead Screwdriver
Wire Strippers
Crimpers
Sissors
Knife/Utility Knife
10MM Socket and Wrench
Socket Wrench Extenders
Golves
Drill
Pliers/Robogrip
Kneepads (if your going to be on your knees alot during the install)
Few Cups/Trays/Holders (to hold screws)
Time:
Took me about 4 hours to do this.
Install:
1. Start by disconnecting your battery and turning off your Alarm (or putting it into Valet mode
or whatever) Then remove everything from your glove box, your mats and move your seat back (or if
you want to take it out completely). The ECU is on the passenger side of the car under the dash
where your feet would go.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/4.jpg
2. Remove the door sill, theres no screw on it, just pull it from one side and continue around.
Sometimes you gotta give it a good yank to get it out.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/5.jpg
3. Remove the glove box. Now theres 2 ways to do this. Remove the glove box itself OR Remove the
glove box and the glove box surround (which is what i did, made it hell of alot easier to work
under there). There are about 10 screws holding the glove box surround in. To remove the glove
box theres a pin on one side, and a C type clamp thinggy on the other. Pull the C clamp thing out
and pull to 1 side to take the pin out.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/6.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/30.jpg
4. You have to remove the kickplates on both the passenger side of the car just infront of the
door, and the passenger side near the center console. Both pull right now and have no screws
holding them in. Pull the carpet back (with the insulation) and put it to the side (like fold it
so its outta your way).
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/7.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/8.jpg
5. The ECU is mounted ON that silver metal plate that you see under the dash. Its held in by 4
10mm nuts. WEAR GLOVES the edges on that metal plate are sharp. You'll need the socket wrench
extenders for the top 2 bolts. Remove the 4 bolts and pull on the metal plate, pull firmly but
not like HE-MAN, as the ECU is mounted on that plate.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/9.jpg
6. Where the wires go into the ECU (the connector) has a 10mm nut on there... unscrew it, it wont
remove from the connector, but it allow the connector to remove from the ECU. Once thats done,
take the ECU Plate/ECU and put it somewhere safe while you work on the Harness of the car.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/11.jpg
7. Remove the top cap thats over the ECU connector (4 tabs you have to pull so it can be
removed).
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/12.jpg
8. Now look at the AFC Wire Diagram and separate out the wires you will be working on. I did that
and temporarly did a loose cable tie on the others so i dont get mixed up when i am working on
the wires. Also the diagram of the wires is if your looking at the BACK of the connector.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/14.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/15.jpg
9. Now you can prepare the wires on the AFC. I decided to make my install modular in the sense
that i can take it out whenever i need to without much work to the harness it self. I used T Taps
to tap into the wires that didnt need to but sent to the AFC Directly. For the other wires i used
bullet connectors so i can disconnect them if i ever needed to and can put them back to stock.
(Female and Male connectors were done in a specific way so that if i remove the AFC i dont have
to redo the bullet connectors on the harness). Wire those up and make sure they are a good fit
and wont pull out. Wrap some Electrical take to be on the safe side.
NOTE: you can also solder the wires in, which is probably better and a more permanent install,
but if something goes wrong its that much harder to diagonse because you cannot simply remove the
AFC easily.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/18.jpg
10. Recheck your wires and make sure you tapped and connected the right ones and that all
connections are sung
11. Run the vaccum line from the engine to your AFC. I 'T'ed into the line that goes to the BPV.
I then ran the vac hose from there to where the main engine harness goes thru the firewall but i
couldnt get it through with all the other wires. So i took the drill and make a small hole on the
end of the rubber fitting (was 'dead' area there, no wires going through there). I ran the vac
line though there and to the AFC.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/20.jpg
12. Recheck your Vaccum lines that you 'T'ed into and make sure they are all one and your line
going to the AFC is not kinked or ripped or anything.
13. Once you have everything hooked up and its all checked. Do a test. Reconnect the battery and
fire up the car. If all is well lets go to the next step. If your shit dont work, check the
wiring and make sure all the connections are good and go from there.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/21.jpg
14. Now were gonna start putting the car back together and mount the AFC. I had some wire looming
stuff that i had used to make the wires for the AFC neat. The foil one that i used has fiberglass
inside. Apparently that looming is supposed to reflect other signals, and have heat reducing
properties. Make the wires going to the ECU neat. Wrap them up, and also wrap up part of the main
harness too (i did it with some electrical tape since the other loom wasnt big enough)
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/22.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/25.jpg
15. Connect the Harness back to the ECU and mount the ECU plate back. Careful not the cut/rip any
wires. Maybe a bit of a tight fit because youve added some wires. Just play with it abit to see
what works best. Once you bolt back up the ECU plate and all that. Start to put the carpet back.
Also at this point make your wires to the AFC Neat and tidy.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/26.jpg
16. I mounted my AFC in the glove box. I wanted it there so i can have easy access to the unit
and also the the Serial port to connect it to my laptop. I did a easy install in the glove box. I
basically drilled 3 small holes.. 2 for the holes that match up to the AFC mounting and 1 extra
that goes further in the glove box (near the 2nd hole for the mounting). Mount the glovebox back
up after drilling the holes. I used zip ties and tied the AFC in place and its pretty snug in
there. Doesnt move around at all. Then run your wires through the top. Make sure you tie it or
whatever in place so the wires dont get tangled when the glove box closes and the vav line doesnt
get pinched.
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/31.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/32.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/36.jpg
17. Once your all done that, do 1 more test run. Fire up the car. If you have a problem back
track, chances are you cut/pulled/ripped a wire or something when putting everything back
together. If it works and everything is good, then button everything else up. Put the kickplates
back on. The door sills. And your all set!
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/37.jpg
18. Go for a boot, have fun, and enjoy Tuning!
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/41.jpg
IMPRESSIONS:
Currently the car is stock and all i did was add the AFC. Theres a BIG difference in the way the
car drives now. Theres a slight noticeably increse in power (buttdyno!, but will be going to a
real one soon), but the bigger improvement stock is the drivability of the car. Theres more 'pep'
to her throughout the whole powerband. She stutters less, easier to drive, no hesitation anywhere
and this is with the preloaded stock supermap! I totally recommend this to anyone!
NOTES:
Originally Posted by DSMConvert
Ok under the options drop down menu the settings should be selected as follows for each category:
System Settings:
Vacuum/Pressure
Programmable Signal Calibrator
Engine Settings:
4 Cylinders
4 Stroke
Output Settings:
Pressure 0 to 30psi
Dont worry about output A
Output B: Over RPM OR Pressure (technically can be just the over pressure selection, but the rpm
gives a safety zone incase you develope a severe boost leak)
Over RPM: 6000
Over Pressure: -1
Dont worry about the rest
You must do these in this order, otherwise the values wont be correct, ie -1 at vac/pressure is
complete different from -1 at absolute...
AFC INSTALL SHEETS:
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/afcinstruction.jpg
http://www.mazdaspeednation.com/howto/afc/afcwires.jpg