Scotties Turbo Build

[yellowmsp03.5]

everybody always makes threads about their turbo builds and i always read them and get jelous... well now its my turn :D

i am installing a T3/T4 T04E .57 Trim turbo into my car to replace my msp one. in order to do this i also have to change my manifold, downpipe, intercooler hot pipe, cai pipe, all my oil lines to braided and buy an external wastegate. i am making a custom downpipe with an electronic cutout on a Y-pipe to a side exit ehaust for short straight through exhaust

i looked around trying to find an aftermarket manifold for my car for a long time and then decided i didnt like the options out there so i decided to go custom... then i kind of ran out of money and R&D time so i picked up the OBX as a stand in. to be honest when it arrived at my house i was more than happy... it looks very good quality and fit and finish. i will just have to see how it performs and holds up. i know that i will do my routing of pipe a little different though when i do mine. i also picked up a used Turbonetics Evolution 38mm wastegate to use.

ok so i finally started this weekend of ripping out the whole front of my engine bay. i wanted lots of room for this project.

so to date i have removed my current turbo setup (mani, dp, turbo), my rad and fans, cai, some ic pipes, and all my oil lines to the stock turbo.

i bolted my new turbo to my obx mani and set them on the head with two bolts just to see what i was up against for fitment issues...

this is how it looks right now... i didnt know how bad my exhaust was leaking until i saw all the shit everywhere... look at it :confused: :eek:

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8765/img1858qv8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3033/img1860ry6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/7753/img1861fx1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/1936/img1867pv6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3973/img1869yo2.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6900/img1868on6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

ive already run into some problems...
where the wastegate is mounted on the manifold (yes i know dumb spot) it will not fit becuase of the a/c lines, not sure how im going to fix this problem yet
the top outlet on the radiator is now lined up with my ic pipe so i have to move my rad over 2" to the driver's side
i cant figure out where to run my side pipe becuase all the spots seem be too low for a 3" pipe under it (even though it will be oval)
and it sucks becuase my cai pipe to the turbo is out like 2 inches... sooo close but not close enough. doesnt even seem worth it to have it bent to fit since it is so close

and i think these are the only problems ive encountered soo far... im sure more will come

[thekid]

That's a Power Steering Line in the way of where the Wastegate should mount from the looks of it... not the A/C.

[yellowmsp03.5]

oh my bad... thought it was a/c.. even though now that i look at it.. the a/c is way down below

oops haha

oh well its still in the way haha geez brian

[Logan]

why not just have the wastegate moved to a different spot on the mani?

[yellowmsp03.5]

becuase the flange is already there and i dont want to weld it onto a new spot and fill the current spot

to be honest i dont really know if there is anywhere else that will be much better without being in the way of something

[CrazyCaker]

shorten the power steering line, the metal part of the line. I'd have to look at mine to be sure how to do it, but I'm sure it can be done.

[tekkie]

shortening that line wont be very simple, the part that hooks onto the power steering pump is a banjo connector

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya i kinda looked into it abit... looks pretty difficult.

there is no side effects of shortening it are there? and can i just bent the lines myself?

[thekid]

Now that Jamie mentioned that, only the end of that line is metal, and because it's connected via banjo bolt, you can pivot that line so that it won't be in the way. I believe we had to do that when we installed the HiBoost in Mike's car (and Jason's car had this repositioned as well).

Loosen the banjo bolt and rotate that steel part and see if will move out of the way enough for you.

[yellowmsp03.5]

thanks brian.. i'm actually gonna take a look now

maybe ill just go to bed haha

ill let you know in the morning what i see

if i remember it is steel at the end and its big thick rubber lines for the rest right?

[cruisinblackp5]

Just give up on the P/S. If it wont move enough though you could evven give it a slight bend( massage it) and get it to clear. Rotating should be no problem

[Mike_Moss]

As Brian said, it needed to be rotated to clear the intake piping for my kit.

There's a little tab on the banjo bolt you can just snap off. Then simply loosen the bolt (not too much as it will leak copious amounts of fluid) and rotate then tighten.

I rotated mine almost 90° clockwise from it's original position without problem. The line may be close to the pump's pulley now, so zip tie it to the other power steering line just in case and you're good to go - safe and reliable.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya i just did this thanks mike for the details... the little tab on the actual bolt that doesnt allow it to spin right??? hope so becuase this is what i bent so i could move it around... i had to move it right out of the way.. like its pointing at like 6 oclock now...

thanks guys.. what do you think about the rest of the stuff

[CrazyCaker]

Glad to hear you got it. It's lookin' real good so far. Let us know how the OBX mani is.

[Mike_Moss]

ya i just did this thanks mike for the details... the little tab on the actual bolt that doesnt allow it to spin right??? hope so becuase this is what i bent so i could move it around... i had to move it right out of the way.. like its pointing at like 6 oclock now...

thanks guys.. what do you think about the rest of the stuffYeah, that's where mine is.

As for your intercooler/rad problem, got a pic?

I'm the master at workarounds, I'd love to check it out and give you input.

[Aitch]

the top outlet on the radiator is now lined up with my ic pipe so i have to move my rad over 2" to the driver's side
i cant figure out where to run my side pipe becuase all the spots seem be too low for a 3" pipe under it (even though it will be oval)


Now that you've got the rad over to the side hopefully an s-type bent hose will work. I was wondering if maybe a P5 rad would work too, unless the outlet is in the same position as the MSP one. Take some more pics of how the piping looks around the engine bay and we'll see what we can come up with (obviously much easier to do in the garage but Alliston is sooo far lol).

As for your exhaust cutout, maybe just routing it to one side skirt just behind the front wheel? That way even if its low you don't have to worry about high-centering when you go over speedbumps too much because its close to the wheels and only as low as the side-skirts?

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya thats what i was thinking too.. i actually might not even do a side pipe the more i think about it... maybe just get the cutout and leave it with the y pipe...

as for the rad problem.. i cant use the p5 becuase i have my i/c piping running where my stock side mount used to go and the p5 rad would be too big.

i am planning on take the bracket from the drivers side of the rad and basically moving it to the passenger side. the bracket i will have to make will just be a hole where the current peg can go through and then a 2 or 3" arm with a peg and rubber gromet on it to fit in the stock rad mounting spot. and then just remove the drivers bracket and have the peg drop straight down off the rad like the passenger side does...

you get that or is it explained confusing

heres some pics

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/2768/img1872to5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/7663/img1873il9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/1850/img1874az5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/1070/img1875mg7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[yellowmsp03.5]

and yes i know i have coolant on the ground... some remaining just spilled out when i tipped it up horizontally to take pics of the bottom haha oops

[Logan]

big sheets of cardboard FTW!!!

[Aitch]

I know your current hot pipe to the intercooler is pretty long and runs where the stock IC was. Is ther any chance you can do some creative cutting/new hose joints to make it shorter, and run from the turbo outlet straight up and over to the passenger side? Even better, could you re-clock the compressor housing so the outlet is towards the bottom, and run the piping from there under/around where your downpipe will go, to the passenger side of the intercooler? That would help with the rad piping, and shorten your IC piping a lot.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya i know thats why im looking on getting custom bent pipes down for my i/c but not now... i dont have a lot of cash right now

i will do that later steve but not now... right now i will just move the rad... its free, i know not as effective but thats all i have to work with right now

sorry to disappoint you haha

[Aitch]

No I know, I was just wondering (especially if you're going with new tubes later) if it was possible to use the existing ones for now to go with the different routing.

[yellowmsp03.5]

no its not becuase my i/c core has the exit pipe to the turbo pointing up not out to the passenger side (if that makes sense) so the piping has to run up becuase of that... i plan on changing the core later on down the road and doing my own piping paths..

so i have done some work on it today and got quite a bit done... i cut and did alot of bending of the i/c pipes and cai pipe, they were bitches to do. also relocated my maf again to my cold pipe. AND found a major problem and need huge help here

so the wastegate comes off the mani and the exit side opening opens right into my fan. like i mean the gap is about an inch, nowhere near enough room to put a pipe down to the downpipe. and i can not think of ANY ideas

i also still have the problem with the rad hose as i thought i could move the rad but realised i cant when i put my drivers side fan on and remembered it goes about 4 inches off the end (where the stock i/c was) and if i cant move it over since it is roughly 1/2" off my i/c piping as it is. so that is out of the question.

the problem isn't AS bad now though as i have modded the piping to fit now and isn't as tall as i thought it was going to be... but there is no way the stock hose will work yet.

is there any way i can use a ss braided hose on it so i can bend it freely? or is can i buy any kind of silicone hose for it that i can bend? the path is clear but i can't do it with the stock hose since it is formed and unable to bend freely... i dont think i can use any hose because of the heat right?

here are some pics.... ordering couplers to hold pipes together (thats why they are not connected :D)

http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/3338/img1877mj3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/6474/img1878ig3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/8495/img1879nq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8861/img1880um8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/1846/img1882cc9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

also what is the thing above the a/c that i have the rag in that connects to the rad... water pump? becuase this is is my way of my downpipe... big time. can i buy a more compact one anywhere? or any alternative because just by looking i dont think i can turn it anyway at all to move it...

[Aitch]

Alright, so I've got some suggestions. Forgive any MSPaint drawings I use to illustrate.

1) You should get a slim SPAL-type fan for that side of the rad. I have one on mine and it sits right against the rad, you should be able to gain about half of the width of your stock fan in clearance. That should be enough to get a 110-120 degree bend off the wastegate and back to your downpipe.

2) I'm not sure there is much you can do about the water outlet. Your downpipe fabricator may have to be very creative to sandwich a pipe through there. You can have a look at mine, although it is mounted high enough that it does an S-bend above that outlet, but you will probably have to do something similar with oval sections of pipe. Don't expect this part to be mandrel bent :p ! I think there was some sort of spacer made in the US called a 'Beavis Block' after the originator, which would space this neck out towards the rad a bit. Don't know if that would help at all, I don't think they're that easy to come by.

3) Rad hoses. There are stainless-steel flexible hoses that you can buy, cut to the right length, and bend to fit. This is the best bet for the double-whammy curve you're looking at there; alternatively you can go and show a NAPA guy what type of curve and length you are looking at and see if any stock hoses line up with that. Silicone and rubber hoses aren't that flexible.

4) Creative piping for your IC. Which also might help you get back to using your stock rad hose. First, can you re-clock the compressor housing on the turbo so the outlet points straight down? I'm not familiar with T3s but it looks like the housing is held on with a series of bolts on the backside. There should be some arrangement, either with those bolts, or a giant C-clip (as on the T25) that lets you clock the outlet to whatever angle you desire. What we need here is something that ends up with the outlet pointing essentially down to the ground. Anyway, don't go tearing the turbo apart without trying out the new piping I suggest below, but have a look to see if you can re-clock the compressor easily.

Now, refer to pic 1. Take the coupler that is in the red circle, place it at the joint in the green circle. Then start rotating the red circle end of the pipe down and see where it ends up lower in the engine bay. See if it hits anything. By now you should start to see if it is going to easily end up somewhere close to your turbo outlet. Hopefully the end in the red circle is starting to sit somewhere close to where the purple circle is in picture 2. Now you need to use the rest of your pipe bits to try and join it up to the turbo outlet.

Feel free to use the two pipe bits that are on your air filter (the bend attached to the filter, and the MAF replacement pipe). First of all we need to get things running, and having a CAI is not as important as driving, period! Plus I would argue about needing a CAI anway, but that's another discussion. Those pipes can come in handy for this job, and you can finalize a CAI setup later if you need to.

Getting this IC piping down low should help free up room to use either the stock rad hose or at least something with only a gentle bend in it. I wish I could stop by one day to work on it, its been long enough since mine that I'm ready to do some chop-cut-rebuild! :p PS thanks for the pics, made everthing so much easier to think about!

[cruisinblackp5]

whats sth eclearance like if you rotate the wastegate 180? can yo uget anew set of flanges for that wastegate and add a pipe to relocate it?

[yellowmsp03.5]

^^^ you cant rotate the waste and go down anywhere else in the bay that isn't an extensive length of pipe... this looks like my only GOOD option... just need more clearance

and steve
i have alot to type to you so ill do that at school haha got to head to class

[Mike_Moss]

My rad fan is relocated infront of the A/C condensor. There's plenty of room for it on my car but you might have issue since your IC and piping goes there.

[yellowmsp03.5]

^^^^^^^^^so is your fan a push type then? or is it still facing out just relocated???

[yellowmsp03.5]

ok steve i looked at your pics and looked at my car... this cannot be done becuase that pipe wont rotate anywhere.. i would have to cut off the support bracket to the frame (which isn't hard) and still the pipe will not turn due to the fan being right there.. the edge of the shrouds have cut corners, sort of like a stop sign and in that corner is where the pipe runs so if turned down would hit the fan shroud

[Mike_Moss]

Yeah, it's a pusher fan (Flex-A-Lite/SPAL).

I'm not a super electrical guru but I believe any fan can be converted to pusher/puller by reversing the polarities. However, this may not be optimal on some since the actual fan blades are sometimes designed for one way and simply will not flow as good the other.

I installed a MSP fan (they're quite slim - thanks again, Ryan/Pro2ner!!!) on my '93 GT when I swapped in the V6 and just reversed polarity to run it as a pusher and put it on the front of the rad. Ran fine with no issues!

[yellowmsp03.5]

hmmm maybe i will look into that... and you never have anything fly in it eh??? i live on a dirt road and can see it firing rocks through my condensor haha...

no but this actually sound likes a not bad idea...

does anyone know how much slimmer a spal is compared to the msp fans?

[CrazyCaker]

^ not exactly sure but it is quite a bit, and there is different models available. I was going to order two 9" Spal slim fans, but I think I'm just going to order Flex-a-lite ones now.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ive never heard of flex-a-lite.. info on them? what are they about

[Mike_Moss]

ive never heard of flex-a-lite.. info on them? what are they aboutGood company. We carry their brand. ;)

I could've sworn Spal & Flex-A-Lite were the same company or had a connection somewhere.

[Mike_Moss]

hmmm maybe i will look into that... and you never have anything fly in it eh??? i live on a dirt road and can see it firing rocks through my condensor haha...

no but this actually sound likes a not bad idea...

does anyone know how much slimmer a spal is compared to the msp fans?I'd be very surprised if that happened.

You can get the Spal/FAL fans as thin as 1", IIRC.

The MSP one is around 2" or maybe even 1.5" I believe.

[yellowmsp03.5]

another question well we're on fans... why is one like 2" thick (pass.) and other like 3-4" thick (driv.)

[CrazyCaker]

The stock MSP ones are 2" and 2.5" thick.

I just did some searching on SPAL's website and these are the parts we would need Scott...

12" Pull (P/N 30100375)
11" Pull (P/N 30100364)

I think I'm going to order those today, but I'll look to see if Flex-a-Lite has an equivalent.

[CrazyCaker]

If your mounting the fans on the back of the rad (on engine side) you want pullers. I have an oil/tranny cooler going on the front side of my rad so I can't go with a push fan setup.

[CrazyCaker]

Shit I just realized you might not be able to go with both an 12" and 11" because the MSP rad is smaller then the P5's. You might went to double check if they'll fit.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya i cant go with the 11 and 12... it will be too big

hmm i dont even know yet if i can get anything in front of my condensor as it is anyways since my piping is right there..

joe how do you know what ones you need.. i am on the site too and clueless

[yellowmsp03.5]

and i dont know what mounting to go with either...

would my best bet be this?

30130011???

[CrazyCaker]

you don't need any mounting hardware. From my understanding, SPAL comes with brackets that can be modified by some minor bending and cutting to make fit.

[CrazyCaker]

Go with the 11" Slim fan and 9" Medium fan.

[yellowmsp03.5]

so get the 11" slim for the passenger side and the 9" medium for the drivers side (since it is smaller diameter i want it thicker to make up?)

correcT?

[CrazyCaker]

That's what I'm thinking.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ok... hmm something to think about..

as you can tell i know shit when it comes to fans haha

[Aitch]

I know you're all going to hate for this.... but both my fans are zip-tied on to the rad. Yeah yeah I know. But I went through three arrangements, the first two which were basically just through the core of the rad and didn't hold at all over time, and now they're completely secure and flush against the rad. May not look the nicest but its not jerry-rigged anymore.

Basically the zip ties go through the core, through the fan housing, and loop up over the top of the rad to the other side (same at the bottom). Now the fans can't move side-to-side or top-to bottom and sit flush and secure. Can't post pics because my laptop died and I'm on an office comp.

[CrazyCaker]

^ I don't hate for that, sometimes ghetto-rigging is required.

[Aitch]

Although technically zip-ties are ghetto-rigged no matter what, I'm entirely satisfied and its not moving or damaging the rad and looks pretty clean to me. So that's how it stays lol.

[yellowmsp03.5]

thats not to bad... im gonna be zip tieing my power steering lines together like mike said becuase the interior once is now basically sitting ontop of the belt since i turned it all around to fit the wastegate

[Mike_Moss]

Zip tying through the core isn't bad, but I try to avoid it if at all possible.

On my '93 GT I zip tied through the core but only because I was swapping out that rad anyway.

On my MP3 I was able to find a few creative locations to zip tie the fan to and avoided the core at all costs. I'm pretty sure I don't have any going through the core, maybe one.

On my '93 GT I'm going to mount the fans securely with bracketry. I don't want the fan to be jarred while jumping curbs and damage the brand new rad.

[yellowmsp03.5]

anybody know of any aluminum fans and shrouds???

my fans are realy close to my turbo and manifold and exhaust if i dont move them to the outside and i have already melted my pass. side one when i took off my manifold in the summer, and now its alot more heat a lot closer...

know of any aluminum fans anywhere?

[thekid]

There is an AWR aluminum fan shroud which mates up to the AWR Rad, but it's design for the P5 rad, not the narrower competition RAD/MSP rad.

[Mike_Moss]

Move the fan infront of the rad. That's your best option.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya im gonna go out and try that when i get home from school

i think i can squeeze one in there.. most likely just the passenger one though and then i guess buy a slim 9" or something to replace the drivers one... i want slim just to keep it as far away from the turbo as i can

i can overlap fans right???

just an example...

say my rad is 20" long and i put an 11" push in front of the rad and then instead of getting a 9" pull for the back, get another 11" pull so i will have a 2" overlap

that shouldnt be bad at all right?

[ChopstickHero]

get some two thin SPAL fans and throw them in front of the radiator. there will be more than enough room for them there. you can also wire both of them together so they kick on together. the passenger side fan only turns on for A/C.

[Logan]

You don't want the fans to overlap. That's dumb.

[cruisinblackp5]

Overlap doesnt make much sense, why not just get two 10s say or a 9 & 11, Mikes gota good point about wiring them too

[yellowmsp03.5]

becuase i didnt want a 9 becuase talking to joe we thought that since i would only be getting a 9 i should get the medium and i need a slim so it will fit... he thought getting the medium would make up for not getting the 11"

[CrazyCaker]

The 9" only comes in medium... atleast for SPAL. It should still be slim enough though, and it also has a higher CFM.

[yellowmsp03.5]

well there goes that idea haha

thanks joe

i started looking at FATs fans but there site sucks and i dont know how to nav through it

[CrazyCaker]

Brian, order this man a set of Flex-a-Lites and solve his problem. lol

[yellowmsp03.5]

i pm'd him yesterday

did you order yours yet?

[thekid]

i know, i'll reply to your pm soon... but all you asked me about was SPAL and we don't carry SPAL, just FAL

[CrazyCaker]

nope... lazyiness prevails. lol

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya brian this wasnt an attack on you.. i only pm'd you yesterday so no worries bud

ok so can you convert all those questions in FAL haha

[thekid]

ya brian this wasnt an attack on you.. i only pm'd you yesterday so no worries bud

ok so can you convert all those questions in FAL haha

ok, will do... and no worries, wasn't reading it as an attack! :p

[yellowmsp03.5]

ok thanks brian... hope to hear from ya soon

[yellowmsp03.5]

ok so i think i have decided to go with two slimline fans, one 9" as a push on the outside of my a/c and an 11" on the inside. this will solve my wastegate problem being too close as the fan will now be gone and also solve my fan being really close to my turbo becuase it will be quite a bit slimmer, i will gain like almost 2" compared to with my stock fan.

hows that sound? :D?

[Mike_Moss]

Why not dual pushers?

I'm a firm believer in this if you can fit them in front of the rad.

Tight engine bays SUCK. (Try working on a 2.5L V6 in a '93 Protege. haha)

[yellowmsp03.5]

i cant fit it on my rad becuase of the support there and i have the short msp rad so the bar is in the way

know what i mean?

[Mike_Moss]

10-4

[yellowmsp03.5]

got another question


the manifold doesnt have an EGR fitting on it... is there one i can buy and weld on?

where is the best place for it?

suggestions on this please

[yellowmsp03.5]

i dont think i want to remove it like some people do... i believe it is there for a reason

[CrazyCaker]

It's there for emissions mainly. If you have a WB and EGT you won't need it imo. Just keep in mind that your NOx emissions will be SKY HIGH without it, and you will undoubtly fail any etest.

[yellowmsp03.5]

thats what i mean... thats why i want to keep it. if i can find a fitting for it... should be no problem... but if i cant find one then i will just remove it, but as a last option

[CrazyCaker]

yeah it's just a matter of finding the thread pitch and diameter of the stock fitting. Then get the right threaded pipe and have it welded on.

[razpizdiay]

i think there was an EGR disscussion on the forum somewhen. if i remmeber correctly, if it is removed, engine idle will get screwed up, along with random stalling issues.

[yellowmsp03.5]

so this is my update:

i have the downpipe completely done now other than welding on my 02 sensor bung. all my rad hoses are now connected and fans installed and wired up. i still need to connect my coolant lines for the turbo again since i took them off when working with the downpipe. all the rest of my piping is cut and installed. EVERYTHING FITS PERFECT!!

i still need to install the fitting for my EGR to finish that. i will probably install it on my manifold but its really hard to find a spot for it on there... shouldnt i be able to install it on my downpipe without problems? i think im going to do that and just run some ss braided hose to the female line.

in the end i hope it all works... this is a list of amost everything i did for this fit (plus a couple things)

install new mani and turbo
run new coolant lines and oil drain
cut and rebend existing oil feed
make custom top and bottom rad hoses
flip water pump housing
install 12" puller fan and 10" pusher on outside
cut and rebend Injen CAI pipe to turbo
relocate MAF
cut new and existing pipes for intercooler to turbo
make custom downpipe with wg dumptube
weld on new flex pipe
weld on electronic cutout and wire into cabin switch
shorten and bend current GHL midpipe relocate hangers
relocate EGR and 02 sensor into downpipe
make new bracket for rad
move power steering line
install 440cc injectors
vibrant vaccuum block and run lines

and i think thats all i can remember now...

anyways heres some pics that i just took last night when i finally finished the downpipe

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/1069/img0236pb8.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/3663/img0238oi2.jpg

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/1380/img0243fp1.jpg

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1020/img0249sq6.jpg

http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/4968/img0244mq4.jpg
^^^ the top welds i had to redo with 309 rod instead of 308 because the ss was 409 and not like 304 or 316 so it had too much carbon in it and my dad said it would eventually crack... thats why those welds looks really wide on top

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/2296/img0251ds9.jpg

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/7102/img0252pj0.jpg

anyways this is what it is like now... hope it pays off and i can start it soon

-scott

[razpizdiay]

just when i started to think that your build is going badly, you post this !

looks amazing Scott ! sure does make me jealous though :D

installing egr onto the downpipe should work IMO, but i dont think you should use a braided SS line for EGR since those have rubber inside, which will definitely burn / melt.

[CrazyCaker]

Lookin' sweet dude!

[thekid]

Coming along nicely Scott!

[yellowmsp03.5]

not all of braided lines are lined with rubber... its the same thing as a flex pipe in an exhaust, its not lined with rubber

[yellowmsp03.5]

thanks guys... i hope to have it tuned next week and on the road...

anybody know if i can drive it with my 440s in with my unichip base map? i just wanna be able to drive it easy to the shop to get her tuned up... i talked to moss and he said probably but be careful and ryan pro2nr said no it wont run since it will be too lean

i think it will but just stumble, as long as i run it really easy and stay out of boost and watch my wb i think i should be ok no?

[CrazyCaker]

I think you should be fine. But wouldn't you run rich, not lean?

[yellowmsp03.5]

thats what i originally thought becuase it would be putting too much fuel in, but just becuase its a bigger orfice in the injector doesnt mean it will put out more fuel becuase it will still be on the original map and put out the same fuel output as the 280s until reprogrammed wont it? thats what i was thinking, but then this should mean that it would run the same if it is putting out the same fuel... so now i just confused myself haha

[CrazyCaker]

Well, my thinking is that because the injector is control by a certain pulse lenght, it would add MORE fuel because they are larger.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya id think that too but ryan told me lean... i just believed him since he knows about that shit.. ohwell.

i think it will run, just rough

[cruisinblackp5]

what were you using the hammer for?

[razpizdiay]

what were you using the hammer for?

to adjust fitment :D

Scott, i didnt know they have long and thin SS exhaust hoses. BTW, where is that yellow hose going to from the valve cover vent?

[Kocakola]

what is that yellow hose going to from the valve cover vent?

Ambilical

[razpizdiay]

Ambilical

lol. its "umbilical" btw. :)

seriously, is it running to one of those aftermarket collant tanks? if so, why?

[Kocakola]

no no its Ambilical like Am Bil Ical

*/ Am is the Latin word for Don't
*/ Bil is the Latin word for Correct
*/ Ical is the Latin word for my spelling bitch

:p

[130pro5]

looks sweeeett! btw how much did you get your manifold for?

[yellowmsp03.5]

i got it for about 300 bucks but i had to modify it some to strengthen it since i heard they crack...

and no it is not a coolant tank.. its an oil catch can to remove any moisture and shit before it enters...

[Logan]

no no its Ambilical like Am Bil Ical

*/ Am is the Latin word for Don't
*/ Bil is the Latin word for Correct
*/ Ical is the Latin word for my spelling bitch

:p
lol!!

[razpizdiay]

and no it is not a coolant tank.. its an oil catch can to remove any moisture and shit before it enters...

aaa! thanks for clarifying.

[snafu]

Showed my Dad, he said "Jesus":D

Can't wait to see some videos/sound clips.

[yellowmsp03.5]

i just booked my tuning for next thursday the 12th @ 6pm at DL motorsports... ill be on the road finally

another update:
just got my dp back from the shop after having them machine my flanges flat so i know they are true when i install them since i know metal warps with high heat and i welded them on. ill post up a couple pics of the final product before i install it tonight.. then you can see my madd skillz haha

just need to do an oil change and add coolant, and wire up a lot of wires and switches and buttons haha. anybody recommend a certain type of oil? im not running synthetic right now, but i think im going to switch over for this new setup... so let me know which ones to look for and where i can get them.

[thekid]

Elf 5w40 Excellium LDX for the turbo setup you're running. $55 for a 5L jug. It's good shit!

Moss and I both run this in ours!

[sixtwosix]

Will you have your license back before the tune? And cool , 626 filters haha

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya i got my license back yesterday!!! YES!

[yellowmsp03.5]

Just started up the car today... it was only for a couple seconds to circulate some oil and coolant but i didnt leave it run becuase my oil feed line isn't made in yet... im still look for a fitting for it but can't find one so i just had my sister hold it in the whole while i turned it over... it did spill a bit but not much.. the good thing is, that it started up first try and for the couple seconds it was on, sounded great and this is with my 440s in and seemed to idle fine even though it is hard to tell in such a short time... it was really loud since i forgot i had the cutout left open... kind of scared me haha

anyways... its on its way. one more fitting and it will be complete

[yellowmsp03.5]

UPDATE:

so i had to take off my downpipe YET AGAIN since i noticed that a couple of my bolts weren't sitting flat on the car becuase the weld was close to the holes and holding up the head... so i ground them all down and cut a hole with the plasma for my O2 bung and welded that on... the pipe is now on FOR GOOD...

i also found a 1/8" male to male flared tip fitting that would fit into the inlet flange and another female one that would replace the fitting on the existing oil feed line. i cut the line and took off the old male fitting and flared the line again to hold it on. then i was able to screw them together with ease... havent tried them out to see if they leak or not but they shouldnt.

but then i noticed some coolant in the tray (above the bottom tank) of my rad. this must have been from the other day when i turned my car over. so i looked all over and found a hole in one of the main tubes. i must have done this between fitting the custom downpipe (sharp edges, flanges) or with a wrench from tightening bolts since the space is soooo tight. i would have taken the rad out but i needed it in for building the dp. i usually had cardboard on the inside incase i hit it, but i guess i missed it one time. anyways im taking it in tomorrow on my way to school and seeing if this rad shop can weld it by the end of the day. im hoping so, so i can get the car running again since i have my appointment for thursday night. its getting close...

everything always has to happen at the very last second after you have a deadline.... this stuff ALWAYS happens to me.. .everything goes wrong when you need it to go right

[Kocakola]

everything always has to happen at the very last second after you have a deadline.... this stuff ALWAYS happens to me.. .everything goes wrong when you need it to go right

Hang in there bud, think of the glory and accoplishment when its all done :D

you got a sweet set up going, don't get discouraged.

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya... hope so... all i can think about is everything that can go wrong... just wait, i will get tuned and then blow the engine... or something will happen... i dont know

[tekkie]

dont rush it man, make sure everything is 100% before you take it to the dyno

[thekid]

dont rush it man, make sure everything is 100% before you take it to the dyno
i agree... it's easier to reschedule the dyno appointment than it is to replace the motor, or something else because everything was rushed!

[razpizdiay]

long time no progress report.

you act as an inspiration, Scott, the more progress you do the more i get into my install. (so far i am done the oil return line only, lol)

hope everything is going well and you didnt bump into more problems.

[midnitehour]

saw scotts' setup today... sweet.

[yellowmsp03.5]

UPDATE:

so i went to the DL mortorsports thursday night to get my car finally tuned and after alot of playing around with the Unichip (tuning it out of the car at the begining) we leaned the fuel -20 and -30 almost all the way across the load/rpm graph. this was needed up front since i was running so rich from the 440s. i could hear a hissing under my hood that i thought was a vacuum line leaking but couldnt find the spot so i mentioned it to Mike and we hooked the smoke machine up to find the leak. we found it thats for sure.

my 1 and 4 injectors were leaking at the manifold. the reason i couldnt feel the leak before was because there was nothing blowing out but rather sucking the air in. this was causing my 1 and 4 cylinders to run lean becuase the ratio was off and it was getting more air then fuel. this was the end of my tuning for the night becuase we didnt want to the lean cylinders hard and the tune would be off when the leaks were fixed. i went home and today pulled it apart to find the problem. the injector insulators (black rubber seats/seals between injector and manifold) were cracked to pieces and not holding their seals. this must have been caused by me overtightening the fuel rail done to try and stop some leaking fuel from the new 440s. so now the car is out of commission again. mazda told me when i tried to order these that they didnt have any in their warehouses and would have to order from japan. this would take 2-3 weeks. luckily Joe (crazycaker) stepped up and lent me some off his spare engine. thanks again

on top of all this, i had my PCV valve out while i was at the shop and Mike told me that i had burnt oil in the blow by and guessed that i was burning oil from the piston rings. i still haven't done a compression test yet to clarify but either way, the burning oil is still bad news.

i guess i will be forced to build the bottom end sooner than i thought.

forged, here i come!

i should have the new insulators in sometime soon before work on monday for sure, and i will then see how the new pre-tune is. should be running alot better than before but still a rough ball park. it doesnt idle right (jumps up and down big time) since im running rich in two cylinders and lean in the other two. no boost until im all done still. i wasn't even strapped on the dyno so i still have a ways to go. should be back in the in two weeks at the latest. this time i hope i have everything figured out and it all goes smoothly

that never happens for me though haha

will post up video of my tune when on the dyno for your viewing pleasure

thanks for reading my novel update :D

[razpizdiay]

good luck !

for the fuel rail, i remember that perrin makes a fuel rail for our cars. since you are running bigger injectors, and need to buy a new one anyways, why dont you try this one? i am sure Brian can get it.

[CrazyCaker]

since you are running bigger injectors, and need to buy a new one anyways,

That's not true. Our stock fuel system is more then capable of running the larger injectors.

[yellowmsp03.5]

im not planning on running a bigger fuel rail with this setup as of yet... i dont need it, the only reason i would get it is for appearance because it looks sweet. ...

[razpizdiay]

my mentality is that if something broke, why replace it with the same thing, and not an upgraded / aftermarket version.

and yeah, id does look sweet. :D

good luck

[CrazyCaker]

Did the spacers work yo?

[yellowmsp03.5]

ya man.... the car is running again!!!! although i got to work that night at 5:58 instead of 5 haha...

just rebooked another tuning appointment (hopefully the last and final one) for May 22nd.... so hopefully she will be running good and strong after that... going for 250whp all summer without blowing. WISH ME LUCK:D

now i need to start gathering parts for my forged build :D

[Spin_E!]

Thats sick... good luck. Where are you getting your forged parts from?
I'm thinking I'll be going through this exact same head ache next summer! I hope!!!!!

[sixtwosix]

Scott how did the tune go yesterday? Update us!