Turbo question

[squashy]

I am not sure if anyone here has a turbo installed, but I just designed and installed a kit on my car. My problem is my a/f ratios are not idea. My kit consists of a FPR (12:1) custom manifold and t28 turbo. I also added an inline fuel pump for safety. The problem I am having is on my wide band O2, my reading are 14.5-14.8, which is ideal for N/A but not boost. If anyone has a turbo setup can they help me out, what readings are you getting for a/f? By the way this is regardless of what boost level I run which is anywhere from 2psi to 6 psi.

[DirtyLude]

You need to track your fuel pressure to make sure it's raising properly and not toping off. If you're hitting extremely high fuel pressure you may be locking or hindering the injectors all together. With an FMU, an in cabin fuel pressure gauge is mandatory.

Personaly I think FMU's are a cheap hack you're going to be screwing around with that thing forever. If there's no way to reflash your ECU to support boost, get a standalone.

[roswel]

check out www.protege5.com

there is an entire section dedicated to forced induction. there are a bunch of people with turbos who can answer any questions you have.

[turboboy]

Just out of curiosity what kind of W/B sensor are you using to obtain the reading ? Also, you still have the stock O2 sensor hookup right ? W/B sensor gives out a different voltage level than that of the factory ones. Provided you have everything hookup right ( AFPR, vaccum signal, etc ) as soon as boost hit the fuel pressure should rise by 12 psi for every 1 psi of boost (12:1) and the stock o2 voltage should be greater than .85V . I'm pretty familiar with this kind of system cause I used to run an AFPR system on my T3 turbo miata before I went to a Link engine management system. For a mechanical system like this a fuel pressure gauge is priceless.

[squashy]

Ok, a bit more info....
We have done more testing, and it seems that something may be controlling the fuel pump. We do have a fuel gauge hooked up, I am getting 40 psi idle, and about 80 psi when I have approx 2 psi of boost. My readings are around 14.5-14.8, using a Motec A/F meter with a (bosch LSM-11 sensor). The Motec unit is stand along, an O2 sensor is placed into my exhaust (downpipe) for the motec unit itself. It seems that no matter what boost I am running it will automatically adjust itself to 14.5-14.8. We have even tried to clamp off the return line completely and it will drop the rail pressure from approx 120 psi to around 80 ish, just so that it will get a reading of 14.5-14.8 on the meter. We just hooked up a Greddy e-manage into the car to test with that, however we are trying to keep costs down because he wants to sell the turbo as a kit from his shop once we are done testing. Yes we have both stock O2 sensors hooked up, no CEL.

[DirtyLude]

120psi? You're really playing with fire, there. I thought you had a second inline pump, or did you replace the intank pump with the inline? What's powering the inline pump, the same fuel pump relay? It's droping the fuel pressure to 80 when you start to boost? It sounds like you have more of a fuel supply problem. You're just not getting enough flow to keep the pressure up. I know it's a long shot, but do you have the correct polarity setup with the inline fuel pump? They can actually wire them backwards so that they don't work properly. Otherwise, I have no idea other than fuel pump failure of some kind.

[squashy]

Yes it's wired correctly... and supply is good, it's an inline pump and it came from my talon. The pressure is really high, but only for testing. As of last night the Fuel Pressure riser is gone, we are running the Greddy e-manage system, and it's running decent, but I am waiting on some injectors (310s) because I am maxing them out at the higher RPM range. Looks like the kit will be completed by this weekend latest and probably ready for sale by next week. My ratios are now around 13.5:1 which is good for street and longetivity. At 2 psi right now the car feels very very good, it pulls all the way to redline. Once we have the injectors in we should be able to run approx 6 psi non intercooled because we are trying to keep the cost of the kit low. An intercooler will be added as an option to the kit.

[cruisinblackp5]

What kinda $$ is the kit and maybe you can be a little more specific about what is included and who exactly is installing it and manufacturing it.

[Kranberry]

Hey Mark, with all this talk about you getting information for Turbo, why don't you go with higher compression pistons and intake and exhaust cams? Might as well get a lighter flywheel and an unorthodox underdrive pulley while yer at it... http://msg.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[cruisinblackp5]

I don't want to build a N/A motor, the power just isn't there. Most of these pieces you suggest will really deter from reaching better hp numnbers with a turbocharged engine. I have been reading about various turbo systems in the states on these motors and there are some people who have tried and came up short.

[Familia 323]

Mark, the only way you can get some pretty decent hp gains with a normally aspirated motor is to do some serious quality headwork. Engine builders to this day swears by this method. Further to your plans of adding a turbo, you may have to beef up your internals as Kran suggested to maximize power and at the same time, minimized reliability issues. So far, the 2.0L FS seems willing and reliable enough but only time will tell. If it matches the tried and true BP-T in quality and power then it's all good... http://msg.toprotege.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif