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View Full Version : How-To Change Rear Engine Mount


CrazyCaker
June 23rd, 2004, 04:49 PM
1.) Put the car on ramps/stands,

2.) Remove all intake piping , and strut bar.

3.) On the fire wall look for a plastic cover over the main harness. There are 2 10mm nuts, one on top the other on the bottom (this one is a bitch to remove), remove the plastic sheild .

4.) Now the fun begins, you need a 17mm swivil socket and lots of extensions (2 10" extensions). find the 3 nuts on the back of the bracket, place the socket on the 17 mm nuts and break them free . This will take some effort to do, once they are all loose remove the nuts.

5.) Now go under the car. Find the bracket. To loosen the bolt that goes through the bushing you will need an impact wrench as you cant enough pull to undo the bolt, its a tight fit but it can be done. Just loosen the bolt, there are a couple of bolts that have to be removed from the lower bracket as well, Once these bolts are out and the lower bracket is loose, you can undo the bushing bolt.

6.) Remove the lower bracket, then undo the 3 top bolts. Now take out the top bracket from underneath, you will have to wriggle it around to get it out.

7.) Now fit the AWR bracket on the 3 nuts, again its a tight fit but it will go. Put the nuts on and tighten hand tight.

8.) Install the lower bracket and tighten up. This is were you need a couple of people to pull the engine foward so you can install the bushing bolt, you cant do this alone. Install the bolt, tighten it up.

9.) Now tighten all the bolts and nuts up. Reinstall the plastic sheild, and use the top nut on the reinstall, the bottom is a bitch to get on.

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sylvestre
June 24th, 2004, 08:53 AM
if I can make a few additional comments.

re: #1, worth mentioning that a jack under the engine is highly recommended. I might also recommending breaking the top 3 bolts without first jacking up the car just because of the amount of force you need to use. There is a risk the car could move enough to slip off the ramps/stands.

re: #3, the top #10 nut is reasonably easy to remove. The bottom one is very difficult to get to and you have to use a spanner. You need a small one and even then, you will not be able to make more than a 1/8th (or less) of a turn so it will take a while to remove. Slow and steady!.
You may be tempted to cut the plastic wiring harness mount but don't do this! Also be aware of the steel brake lines. Under no circumstances should you screw around with those.

re: #4, you will need deep sockets since the threaded mount is quite long (~2"). If your car has a lot of miles or you see signs of rust on the bolt, I would suggest lots of liquid wrench and using a high quality (6 point) socket.

re: #5, you will find some rubber hoses that are quite stiff and get in the way but they can be somewhat pushed aside